Official 215 Express Thread

Dxdave said:
what did your 2000 215 have?
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What mine had doesn't factor in here. As I mentioned above, this is about the way your engine is currently setup - not about the boat or anyone else's boat/engine. To compare to what someone else has/had to try and figure out what you have would only be an assumption.

How did you winterize?
 
Just like Lazy Day says, pictures would help the most. Different options from the factory, let alone anything people have done over the years. We have a 98 215 with a 5.7 that is standard cooling and carbureted. Not factory is the electric fuel pump. Also not factory is the motor per the serial tag on the block.

So no matter what you do or think, you always want to double check what you have before ordering everything or even assuming you have what you think you have. It has bitten all of us in the butt before when you order something because your boat is supposed to have it and then you find out it's been changed and it's different and you got to wait for the correct part and you wasted money. Just some friendly advice.
 
Dxdave said:
So my question was unworthy.. pretty funny - could have just said you can't remember - with age comes such issues. Mine is original per PO. No I'm not buying anything, I don't believe I said I was. As someone with many years experience with OBs and muscle car engines for that matter, I have indeed also learned to wait until I knew exactly what I needed before ordering something. Got quite a few of the records for what has been done over the years on this one. I used the motor serial number and found out a lot about the power plant, but it came with either cooling set-ups. So as I said previously, will have to wait until I can access the boat in April to eyeball the thing. Thank you both for your comments.
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Was the age/memory thing directed at one of us? I remember exactly what I had :)

I think, reading through how he wrote it, Horn was just offering some extra advice that "if" you were to buy something for the engine in the future, you want to be doubly sure you are ordering based on what you CURRENTLY have - not based on what may have been there decades ago.
 
so PO tells me it’s an open raw water type cooling system and basics of how he winterizes. (The running till warm then using pail with gallons of pink sucked in with muffs etc method). . Wondered what you thought of that method vs what this guy on you tube does.

 
You never answered how you wintertized? Does that mean the previous owner did it?

If, based on what you wrote in post #429, the PO ran the engine till it got warm and then immediately switched to sucking in AF... cross your fingers that your block or manifold isn't cracked. 100% the wrong way to do it.

Drain the engine, manifold and block hose (and fuel cooler if you have EFI) using the blue plugs and/or removing the block hose if your hose doesn't have a plug. SSimply pour AF in through the hoses on the t-stat housing. You could hook up a jug of AF and then run that through... but ONLY after fully draining. I often prefer just pouring it in as it's a better way and faster.

Of course, this is after the "fogging" procedure (which can be done different ways depending on your system.
 
yes thanks - the 'pouring in the hoses' method looks way more reliable to me as well and I'm sure I will do that going forward (pretty much what that clever Canuck kid is doing in video eh?). PO warmed engine to open thermostat then switched muffs over to the pink bucket for coolant source. I have helped a couple other guys do exactly that in our marina and they seem to swear buy it and it gets damn cold here. But I agree it may not be best and it almost requires two people when your running engine and watching whats happening on lower unit.. ok sir, thanks again for the feed back.
 
Dxdave said:
yes thanks - the 'pouring in the hoses' method looks way more reliable to me as well and I'm sure I will do that going forward (pretty much what that clever Canuck kid is doing in video eh?). PO warmed engine to open thermostat then switched muffs over to the pink bucket for coolant source. I have helped a couple other guys do exactly that in our marina and they seem to swear buy it and it gets damn cold here. But I agree it may not be best and it almost requires two people when your running engine and watching whats happening on lower unit.. ok sir, thanks again for the feed back.
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(I didn't watch the video)

Sure, you're welcome! Switching over to AF without first draining means there is "some sort of mix" of AF and water in your engine. It may even be a different dilution ratio in different areas. The point is, though, the AF is now diluted. To what extent we don't know. It "could" work that way... but by first draining, it WILL work :)
 
can anyone tell me where I will find fuel shutoff on 1998 215 EC ? also is the tac supposed to have an hour meter as I've see on later models?
 
Dxdave said:
can anyone tell me where I will find fuel shutoff on 1998 215 EC ? also is the tac supposed to have an hour meter as I've see on later models?
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There is no fuel shutoff "valve", per se. There is an anti-siphon fitting either on the tank or an electric one shortly after the tank in the fuel line.

Early versions of the 215 didn't have an hour meter.
 
Thanks for the info reply. No hour meter is a bummer. Was sorta hoping maybe they’d have a hidden one on engine. So I can change fuel filter regardless of no shutoff I guess
 
Dxdave said:
Thanks for the info reply. No hour meter is a bummer. Was sorta hoping maybe they’d have a hidden one on engine. So I can change fuel filter regardless of no shutoff I guess
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Correct - you're good to go.
 
On my 2006. 215 weekender have one right after the tank. My hour meter is inside speedo I believe or tac can't remember only 430 hours
 
Scott215 said:
On my 2006. 215 weekender have one right after the tank.
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Although it sort of serves the same purpose, that's actually an electric anti-siphon fitting. Not really a fuel shutoff valve (in the strictest sense, anyways). Dave has a different model than you, though - his AS is likely screwed into the tank and is the "typical" style AS.
 
Ok that's good to know thanks
 
under backs seats in the corners f I understand your question. Not technically scuppers I suppose - iirc these drain into bilge. I’ll look at mine later today.
 
My volt gauge just pegs to 16 when engine is running. Put a volt meter on battery and it gets 14.4 or so when the engine is running. Been like this for several months. All else seems well and batteries are being kept fully charged. Is this how these crap out? I'm thinking of replacing gauge. What do you think? thanks
 
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