Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

am i the only one with crappy water pressure in the shower? i know i bring this up every year. its so annoying.
 
Has anyone added a 3rd battery to the house bank? I currently have two group 31 AGM’s and after a typical night on the hook with fridges and night lights ..some tv before bed, etc ..I’m usually sitting at 50% in the morning. I’m adding a 12v cooler this season that will draw 4.5amps so it will be even lower. Question is space over there at the port (house) batteries. There is no space. The only option would be to stack one on top of the other two somehow. Has anyone done that?

And then ..the 12v plug in the transom compartment. Off hand does anyone know if that draws off port or starboard bank? ( I plan to strap the new 12v cooler on the swim platform and run it from there.) I can figure it out, but thought you guys might know off hand.
 
liv2ryde100 said:
am i the only one with crappy water pressure in the shower? i know i bring this up every year. its so annoying.
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Is this hooked up to city water or with the fresh water pump or both? If both check then check at the faucet and inline screens. Is this only at the shower? What about the galley?

-Kevin
 
Anyone know where to get the Oceanaire skyshade for the hatch over the v berth? Outside dimentions are 26 5/8 x 26 5/8.
Thanks, Eddie
 
KevinC said:
Is this hooked up to city water or with the fresh water pump or both? If both check then check at the faucet and inline screens. Is this only at the shower? What about the galley?

-Kevin
Click to expand...
On both city water and tank. Seems to be sufficient flow at the galley sink. I’m contemplating just changing out the whole faucet. I’ve removed all the screens and water restrictive devices from the fixture already
 
liv2ryde100 said:
On both city water and tank. Seems to be sufficient flow at the galley sink. I’m contemplating just changing out the whole faucet. I’ve removed all the screens and water restrictive devices from the fixture already
Click to expand...

There might be an inline screen at the coupler under the sink. How is the water flow with the faucet head off?
-Kevin
 
I can’t remember trying it with the head off, u saying I should unscrew the hot and cold lines and there’s screens in there? Who designs this stuff with all these stupid screens?
 
liv2ryde100 said:
I can’t remember trying it with the head off, u saying I should unscrew the hot and cold lines and there’s screens in there? Who designs this stuff with all these stupid screens?
Click to expand...

Yes, check the flow with the faucet head off just going through the hose. I can't remember which line on the boat but I found a screen in one of the couplers. It might have been from the factory or a PO - who knows?!? Always look for screens under removable faucet heads.

I love the fact that I changed out my galley faucet to a pull out. It makes getting to the filter screen easy by unscrewing the faucet head. Seems to happen the beginning of each year. Probably from the AF and then running through the tank several times each spring.

-Kevin
 
IMG-4442.jpg
 
Hi just wondering if any one has had a stuck lower galley sliding door ( the ones below the upper cabinets ) , and what did you do to fix them so they slide/wind up ???
 
Hey Guys,

I’m out right now and getting an alarm “shift” and my engine stays in the forward throttle position regardless if I’m in neutral or backward? Anything I can do before I attempt to park with just the one engine?

Chris
 
M Prod said:
Has anyone added a 3rd battery to the house bank?
Click to expand...

I did when we had our 340. I added two batteries to the house side and we could go for a couple days on the hook with both fridges running. I changed the lights to LED so there was next to no power consumption. I built a pull out shelf over the existing two batteries on full extension heavy duty sliders that could hold the weight of both batteries and had additional cables made up to connect them. With one rail attaches to the plywood beside the water heater, I added a brace on the end of the plywood that extended to the top deck so that it wouldn't rotate when the slides were pulled out. It worked well, maintained access to the lower batteries and was strong/stable. There was not much room to fit it all in though ... just enough.

I think I have pics if you are interested, just PM me.
 
This is the sliding door my fingers on it it will not open all the way/rollup how do you fix it

upload_2019-6-12_12-14-54.jpeg
 
see ray said:
This is the sliding door my fingers on it it will not open all the way/rollup how do you fix it

View attachment 71124
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Check for items in cabinet to the right blocking the roll-up mechanism. Not allowing it to open all the way. Or better yet, take everything out n see how it does.
 
Korkie said:
Check for items in cabinet to the right blocking the roll-up mechanism. Not allowing it to open all the way. Or better yet, take everything out n see how it does.
Click to expand...
Ditto ... this was the cause of the same problem we encountered. Only point of clarification, we found it was to the left (aft) that was blocking the roll-up mechanism.
 
Thought I'd share my response to Mike in case anyone else was interested in adding battery capacity.
View attachment 71176

The shelf was made from 3/4" plywood (painted with bilge kote to match) 14"x18" in size, each support leg (holding the slide) is 3/4"x3/4" and I used 100lb full pull out slides (http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=46576&cat=3,43614,43616). The slides were a bit of a compromise as I wanted heavy duty full pull out that I could take apart and the batteries were about 125lbs total - I figured there was at least a 20% safety margin and when I put the batteries in or out, I only had the tray pulled out part way.

You will note that the aft support leg has a notch cut out - I needed that in order to slide past the battery connector on the bottom battery.Also, the battery trays are not centred fore-aft in order for the batteries to fit under the cable tray.

I made a 3/4"x3/4"x long enough support to run up the outside edge of the plywood holding the water heater to the floor deck so that any torque on that piece of wood would be braced. Pre-drilled the holes and used a ratchet to install the screws into the edge of the plywood. If I remember I may have had to cut a little of the sub-floor for the support rod to sit solidly.

The aft slide screwed directly to the water heater plywood and I made a spacer to fit the other side - this took a few iterations as it can't be too tight or the slides will not function smoothly.

It took many iterations to get the shelf to the right height - I had so many pieces of tape with measurements and marks on it. There is just enough room for the group 31 to fit under the cable tray and above the lower batteries. If you only intend to add one battery then you might be better to turn it 90 degrees to how I did it and you will have greater flexibility as you won't have to contend with the cable tray.

I had to adjust plumbing and electrical a little to the pull out shelf didn't interfere with them. The nice thing about these slides is there is a little clip on each on that allows it to come completely out - which makes servicing the bottom batteries much easier.

I used the same gauge of cable as currently in the boat (I think it was 000) - the cables were them most expensive part of this project (not counting the batteries themselves). I had my chandlery make them up so they were proper gauge and the terminals were solid. My batteries also had the post for the ring terminal so that is what I connected them to.

To keep the shelf in I just used a scrap piece of nylon webbing and screwed it to the firewall side plywood and then to the front of the tray. Never had any problems with it.

Overall it worked very well and looked professional.

Here are a few pics:
Shelf
View attachment 71177

Support leg and notch
View attachment 71178
 
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