Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

Discovered the shower sump box full of water today and after some probing with a multimeter it appears the pump is DOA. While getting the info off the top of the pump so a replacement can be ordered, noticed it specified 5A fuse. There was no inline fuse in the bundle of wiring (aka "rats nest"), so I looked at the panel under the dash and the one in the engine engine compartment, and there was nothing labeled "shower sump." So, any ideas on where this might be located? Is there another fuse panel somewhere that i have missed?
 
Windjammer, According to my manual, 2006 340 496mag B3 drives, the sump pump is protected by a breaker on the main DC breaker panel. Troubleshooting in manual advises, check the float switch for obstructions and gumming up. Your AC condensation drain goes in there as well. I pour Pine Sol, sent of your choice, through mine every now and then. Just pour it in the AC tray and/or down the shower drain. Le tit set 15 min or so and flush with water. Cleans up the gunk and leaves a pleasant smell.
Also, looking at my boats diagrams, appears the power comes directly off the Port breaker (hot side) in the dc distribution panel. The line may be fused behind the breaker cover. My bet is it is gunked up and just net making sufficient switch contact.
Good Luck
 
Discovered the shower sump box full of water today and after some probing with a multimeter it appears the pump is DOA. While getting the info off the top of the pump so a replacement can be ordered, noticed it specified 5A fuse. There was no inline fuse in the bundle of wiring (aka "rats nest"), so I looked at the panel under the dash and the one in the engine engine compartment, and there was nothing labeled "shower sump." So, any ideas on where this might be located? Is there another fuse panel somewhere that i have missed?

New pump arrived this morning. Before installing, I looked again for either a fuse or a breaker that feeds the shower sump. Nothing on the panel inside the cabin (pulled the cover and saw no inline fuses. There were a couple of fuse blocks labeled "Accy" that looked like they are part of the stereo).
Went to the bilge and on the forward bulkhead is the big black DC Distribution Box, but the only workable breakers are the battery switches. Removed the cover for a look-see and the only fuseblocks are for the generator and windlass relays.
On the small breaker panel to the right of the DC Distribution, there were no breakers popped and none labeled with shower sump.
Back to the cabin and in the floor compartment it looks like 2 wire harnesses - one is for the forward bilge pump, power is there and the pump works. The 2nd set feeds the shower sump and float switch - 3 wires (1 blk about #12 assumed to be ground; 1 blk with red stripe, and another smaller blk about #14 awg). There is no power between any combination of these 3 wires. I was able to temporarily tap into the power feed for the forward bilge pump to test the new shower sump and float switch, and it seems to work ok, so that tells me I have this wired correctly.
Just can't find a fuse (or breaker) for the harness feeding the shower sum.
Any ideas or suggestions?
 
I looked at wiring diagram and it shows BRN/ORN wire coming from main DC breaker panel in bilge, 5amp breaker.
 
Greetings all.

My head shower sprayer was clogged and I descaled it, after that cold water flow is good but not the hot. There is no crack and dripping of the hold and cold water manifolds/pipes/fittings and water heater connections.
Is it same of your's or should I also descale the hot water manifold and or the water heater ?

Also the water pressure from the city water inlet/regulator is lower than the onboard water pump whereas my dock water pressure is 20 liters/minute while onboard water pump gives 10.6 liters/minute but the water is not flowing 20liters/minute from the faucets via city water inlet. So is the regulator shot ?

And any 2007 340DA owners find the same shower sprayer/handle which I'd like to replace it due to the momentary on/off on the handle is broken.

TIA
 
I looked at wiring diagram and it shows BRN/ORN wire coming from main DC breaker panel in bilge, 5amp breaker.
New pump arrived this morning. Before installing, I looked again for either a fuse or a breaker that feeds the shower sump. Nothing on the panel inside the cabin (pulled the cover and saw no inline fuses. There were a couple of fuse blocks labeled "Accy" that looked like they are part of the stereo).
Went to the bilge and on the forward bulkhead is the big black DC Distribution Box, but the only workable breakers are the battery switches. Removed the cover for a look-see and the only fuseblocks are for the generator and windlass relays.
On the small breaker panel to the right of the DC Distribution, there were no breakers popped and none labeled with shower sump.
Back to the cabin and in the floor compartment it looks like 2 wire harnesses - one is for the forward bilge pump, power is there and the pump works. The 2nd set feeds the shower sump and float switch - 3 wires (1 blk about #12 assumed to be ground; 1 blk with red stripe, and another smaller blk about #14 awg). There is no power between any combination of these 3 wires. I was able to temporarily tap into the power feed for the forward bilge pump to test the new shower sump and float switch, and it seems to work ok, so that tells me I have this wired correctly.
Just can't find a fuse (or breaker) for the harness feeding the shower sum.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Windjammer, do you have your wire diagram for your boat? If so, try n trace power source backwards from pump, which can be challenging at best. I think your issue is going to be a bad breaker, just need to find it. If you don't have the diagrams, try calling SeaRay. They have helped me through a few issues over the phone. If you haven't spoken with them before, number is 865-522-4181, have your hull number. Lots of prompts and best to be at boat with a test light / meter when you call. They are usually quite helpful.
 
New pump arrived this morning. Before installing, I looked again for either a fuse or a breaker that feeds the shower sump. Nothing on the panel inside the cabin (pulled the cover and saw no inline fuses. There were a couple of fuse blocks labeled "Accy" that looked like they are part of the stereo).
Went to the bilge and on the forward bulkhead is the big black DC Distribution Box, but the only workable breakers are the battery switches. Removed the cover for a look-see and the only fuseblocks are for the generator and windlass relays.
On the small breaker panel to the right of the DC Distribution, there were no breakers popped and none labeled with shower sump.
Back to the cabin and in the floor compartment it looks like 2 wire harnesses - one is for the forward bilge pump, power is there and the pump works. The 2nd set feeds the shower sump and float switch - 3 wires (1 blk about #12 assumed to be ground; 1 blk with red stripe, and another smaller blk about #14 awg). There is no power between any combination of these 3 wires. I was able to temporarily tap into the power feed for the forward bilge pump to test the new shower sump and float switch, and it seems to work ok, so that tells me I have this wired correctly.
Just can't find a fuse (or breaker) for the harness feeding the shower sum.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Snapped a photo of the main dc box and there is a breaker labeled "sump pump" but the breaker is not tripped. Unless I'm having a 'senior moment', none of the breakers on this panel can be toggled between on and off. The only things that move are the energizer switches for the batteries. Planning to head back to the boat today for another look.
Main DC Panel-1.JPG


Main DC Panel-1.JPG
 
David - I know it's a different boat, but my 410's shower sumps each had a 5 amp automotive blade fuse on the bulkhead next to each of the sumps - that solved one of my dead pumps a while back. They were in a small black fuse holder...
 
Greetings all.

My head shower sprayer was clogged and I descaled it, after that cold water flow is good but not the hot. There is no crack and dripping of the hold and cold water manifolds/pipes/fittings and water heater connections.
Is it same of your's or should I also descale the hot water manifold and or the water heater ?

Also the water pressure from the city water inlet/regulator is lower than the onboard water pump whereas my dock water pressure is 20 liters/minute while onboard water pump gives 10.6 liters/minute but the water is not flowing 20liters/minute from the faucets via city water inlet. So is the regulator shot ?

And any 2007 340DA owners find the same shower sprayer/handle which I'd like to replace it due to the momentary on/off on the handle is broken.

TIA

I'm having the exact same issues right down to the broken on/off water stop button on the side. I was thinking the regulator. Water flows much better from the tank/pump. Keep us posted on what you find.
 
Greetings all.

My head shower sprayer was clogged and I descaled it, after that cold water flow is good but not the hot. There is no crack and dripping of the hold and cold water manifolds/pipes/fittings and water heater connections.
Is it same of your's or should I also descale the hot water manifold and or the water heater ?

I am about to install a new faucet and shower head on my boat. I noticed that the supply line connections have inline screen filter/washers. There may be the same in your setup - I will be able to verify soon. These washers with screens may be inline at the male-to-male fittings under the sink in the head. These type of filters do get clogged from time to time and require cleaning - may be the situation here.

-Kevin
 
Snapped a photo of the main dc box and there is a breaker labeled "sump pump" but the breaker is not tripped. Unless I'm having a 'senior moment', none of the breakers on this panel can be toggled between on and off. The only things that move are the energizer switches for the batteries. Planning to head back to the boat today for another look.View attachment 50396

View attachment 50396
"senior moment' indeed. Breaker was tripped but you had to look real close to see it. Reset breaker, connected all the wires for the new pump and float switch. All fixed.
 
I am about to install a new faucet and shower head on my boat. I noticed that the supply line connections have inline screen filter/washers. There may be the same in your setup - I will be able to verify soon. These washers with screens may be inline at the male-to-male fittings under the sink in the head. These type of filters do get clogged from time to time and require cleaning - may be the situation here.

-Kevin

That's a good point....I should also check the screen at the regulator. I have a short hose saver section plugged into it to make it easer to hook up docks water. Haven't checked the screen this year.
 
I'm having the exact same issues right down to the broken on/off water stop button on the side. I was thinking the regulator. Water flows much better from the tank/pump. Keep us posted on what you find.

Thanks Tim.
Then gonna try with my neighbours regulator when I get back to winter marina whos boat is 2006 340DA.
 
I am about to install a new faucet and shower head on my boat. I noticed that the supply line connections have inline screen filter/washers. There may be the same in your setup - I will be able to verify soon. These washers with screens may be inline at the male-to-male fittings under the sink in the head. These type of filters do get clogged from time to time and require cleaning - may be the situation here.

-Kevin

Thanks Kevin.
Never know about that filters, gonna look at them if I have.
 
I know this has been discussed, I'd like to add aux port at helm but can't see any pics of similar to my 2007, while I don't want to cancel the cabin outlet.

I looked to the rear of the stereo and the aux feed is a "rca type" red and white cable coupled to a single white similar to a satellite antenna cable goes to the aux port at the salon couch.

So is there any twin "rca type" red and white cable to feed both the salon aux port and the helm like Y splitter or am I mistaken about my setup and there is an easy solution for twin setup ?

Hope some one can shed light and I can do the addition before summer ends.

Thanks in advance.
 
Add
I know this has been discussed, I'd like to add aux port at helm but can't see any pics of similar to my 2007, while I don't want to cancel the cabin outlet.

I looked to the rear of the stereo and the aux feed is a "rca type" red and white cable coupled to a single white similar to a satellite antenna cable goes to the aux port at the salon couch.

So is there any twin "rca type" red and white cable to feed both the salon aux port and the helm like Y splitter or am I mistaken about my setup and there is an easy solution for twin setup ?

Hope some one can shed light and I can do the addition before summer ends.

Thanks in advance.

Just add a Bluetooth Receiver with RCA outputs to the stereo and stream your music wireless. This way you don't need to worry about routing wires, etc. Since it is wireless you can use it anywhere and just unplug the current aux port. All you will need to do is select AUX and pair your device and start playing.

I used the Fusion model MS-BT100 and love it and have heard there are even better ones out there. I installed it right behind the radio and I can be almost anyplace on my boat.

-Kevin
 
Add


Just add a Bluetooth Receiver with RCA outputs to the stereo and stream your music wireless. This way you don't need to worry about routing wires, etc. Since it is wireless you can use it anywhere and just unplug the current aux port. All you will need to do is select AUX and pair your device and start playing.

I used the Fusion model MS-BT100 and love it and have heard there are even better ones out there. I installed it right behind the radio and I can be almost anyplace on my boat.

-Kevin

Thanks Kevin.

I wanted the aux cable connection because I use ipod classic and it doesn't have bluetooth and don't wanna drain my smart phone battery for listening music.

I searched thoroughly CSR and found that KreoleKid a fellow 340DA owner did dual rca which is what I needed.

I did the dual rca and there is no sound/output difference between cabin and helm aux jacks.
Here below the pics.

ggjO26

TcCByP

M7Qbzh
 
BTW meantime of adding helm ipod/aux jack I also replaced the cabin electrical panel led.

Couldn't find any similar to the existing and gone with a 30 cent noname led but atleast it has 3M adhesive tape.

The hardest part was connecting the boat's cable and the led's so I extended the boat's and splice it to the led via cable connectors and lightens better than factory led.

Dark and lit photos are below.
8RDemj

dsTcYc

20170907_212734.jpg
 

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