Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

apparently mercrury replaces all four fuel pumps on my boat for previous owner a couple years ago. so im going to just replace the cover. theres a brand new kit from mercury that includes the cover, seal and regulator for 250$. the part number is..... 8M0130861
 
has anyone done a cooling system flush? the stuff is called rid lime. goes through saltwater side and cleans everything out. supposed to work amazing.
 
liv2ryde100 said:
has anyone done a cooling system flush? the stuff is called rid lime. goes through saltwater side and cleans everything out. supposed to work amazing.
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There are also some other alternatives including using phosphoric acid which can easily and inexpensively be picked up at places like home depot.
I will most likely be going this route once we splash.

Read up here:
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/40912-Clogged-Air-Cond-Lines (see Frank's post)
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/81213-Air-conditioning-system-and-hose-cleaning-340-DA (rondds posted a pic of what you can get)

-Kevin
 
The rydlime stuff is non toxic to environment, which means u can run it out the exhaust after You flush it through system. Also some of the acid washes can damage the welds in the manifolds so be careful
 
Help help help !!!! My AC took a dump !!
If you replaced your what unit did you replace it with
??? My boat is an 05 340 dancer.
i would like to get as close to direct replacement .
most of the units I see have the water in/out on the wrong side
I'll need to extend them aaaaaggggggghhhhhhh!!!
 
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Cruiseair (Dometic) should have some near replacements to match up with wiring and ducting. They will most likely be a smaller foot print, more efficient and quieter. They also have replaced the drip pan with a composite one so no more rusting.

-Kevin
 
liv2ryde100 said:
The rydlime stuff is non toxic to environment, which means u can run it out the exhaust after You flush it through system. Also some of the acid washes can damage the welds in the manifolds so be careful
Click to expand...

From reading it seems like the stronger acids like muratic acid are the ones to worry about affecting solder joints. Additionally I am not sure how much clogging is due to scale vs marine growth and the diluted phosphoric acid appears to do the trick. Barnacle buster is a popular solution for pickling and cleaning marine ACs and I believe they are phosphoric acid based also from their MSDS.

BTW, I love how these chemical say they are non-toxic until your read the MSDS sheets.

-Kevin
 
KevinC said:
From reading it seems like the stronger acids like muratic acid are the ones to worry about affecting solder joints. Additionally I am not sure how much clogging is due to scale vs marine growth and the diluted phosphoric acid appears to do the trick. Barnacle buster is a popular solution for pickling and cleaning marine ACs and I believe they are phosphoric acid based also from their MSDS.

BTW, I love how these chemical say they are non-toxic until your read the MSDS sheets.

-Kevin
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I noticed most of the crud came out when I hooked the lines up to the dock water under full pressure. You can use the acid if that doesn't solve the flow issue.
 
Steve will be retiring soon and we'll be spending July and August in the North Channel in Canada, on the hook most days. Unfortunately, I can't retire so I'll have to work on the boat for part of the trip. I'm on my computer for 7 hours a day and my battery only holds a charge for 3 hours (work won't replace battery or order 2nd one). I plan on using my cell phone as a hotspot to connect to the internet.

We're looking for a solution so we don't have to run the generator for extended periods of time as it takes away from the quiet peacefulness of the area.

Any ideas for a cheap power solution? Would adding more batteries help?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Kim
 
i would imagine an inverter setup would help your situation, but i dont know much about it, and im thinking u paying for a second battery out of your own pocket may still be cheaper than setting up and inverter.
 
Just a small plug in inverter should work for you. Plugs into 12V power and gives you house current. They come in several amp ratings. We have a fixed inverter. It powers all of 120V house current outlets on the boat. It is a 750amp and will run most appliances. It is wired as such that when the shore power is connected or the generator is running, the inverter is taken off line automatically. Didn't know it was even on the boat until after we bought it and went investigating. Very nice setup, powers the TV, VCR, phone chargers, blender and more. I believe it is a factory install, but not sure. The broker nor surveyor didn't even know it was there. We use a smaller plug in for our ski boat for phones and such.
 
Hi Kim
save yourself the hassle and buy a new battery for the Laptop. Run it in power saving mode and you should 8-12 hours out of it.
 
Secure Bulkhead Wall?

Does anyone happen to know how the bulkhead in the cabin is held in place? I just purchased my 2004 340 DA in September and commissioned it today. I noticed today that the bulkhead isn't tight, dropping down a bit from the top left. I can push it up and back so if I'm underway, it's certainly going to be bopping. I don't remember seeing this in the fall when I bought it and I did use it for 45 days. I have a friend who has the exact same boat and his is properly secured. Neither one of us can figure out how it's secured. I took out the center panel of the helm that holds the smartcraft digital gauge and while we can see the back of the bulkhead, there are no apparent screws, clips or anything that looks like it's supposed to secure the bulkhead. The previous owner mounted a 40" TV to it and the TV mount looks secure, it's the bulkhead that doesn't. I suspect the extra weight of the TV probably caused this issue.

Any help/guidance would be really appreciated!

Thanks so much.

Craig
 
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Korkie said:
Just a small plug in inverter should work for you. Plugs into 12V power and gives you house current. They come in several amp ratings. We have a fixed inverter. It powers all of 120V house current outlets on the boat. It is a 750amp and will run most appliances. It is wired as such that when the shore power is connected or the generator is running, the inverter is taken off line automatically. Didn't know it was even on the boat until after we bought it and went investigating. Very nice setup, powers the TV, VCR, phone chargers, blender and more. I believe it is a factory install, but not sure. The broker nor surveyor didn't even know it was there. We use a smaller plug in for our ski boat for phones and such.
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Just out of curiosity, where is the inverter located?
 
heads up for anyone worried about paint in fuel system from cool fuel gen III. my marina took apart some things and mercury covered the cost of a brand new cool fuel module, and are also replacing all of my injectors. mercury covering all parts not labor.
 
Mine is under the electrical panel behind the drawer. There are several boxes back there, including the Sirius receiver, TV digital signal converter and the inverter. The inverter powers up with the forward acces switch on the dash and powers all outlets except the fridges and batt charger.
 
Had mine done last year and same thing was done. Just had to go to a certified mercruiser mechanic.
 
The bulb in the white platstic dome in my bilge is out. These are the Parts - LIGHT, SGL DOME FLUSH MT PLAS WHT W/O SWITCH 822668
604801 BULB, DOME LIGHT 12V.. I cannot find 604801 bulb anywhere. Anyone know the replacement?
 
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