Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

Hey has anyone changed the exhaust manifold out on the generator? Is this something that needs to be done? I never hear of anyone talking about it
 
Correction I think I’m talking about heat exchanger I don’t know if it has an exhaust manifold. I’ve heard of people grenading these thing I would like to avoid that. Plus we sleep with it running sometimes
 
kmousty said:
My first post - not sure if I am doing it correctly - please let me know if not...

I have a 2004 340 Sundancer - going to mount a tv by the sink in the cockpit. I am assuming to use the Glomax, I will need to run a cable from the gain box in the cabinet on the port side by the v-berth. Anyone have any tips on how to get from that box to the cockpit sink?

Thanks in advance

Kevin
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Update - went to the boat and ran the cable from the existing gain box in the cabinet to the new TV mounting at the sink area in the cockpit. With a couple guys and a fish tape wasn't bad. The panel the gain box is on comes out and the bottom of the closet that the gain box is in come out - just a couple screws each. Took all the drawers out in the galley. Open up the head cabinet door, took out the clear glass piece in the cabinet in the aft cabin (in the cabinet to see the battery charger) and then took out the recessed piece in the cabinet where the cooler goes (I previously took the cooler and the shelf it sat on out, gave us alot more storage room instead of a cooler). Once all those were opened up, we were able to run the cable down the port side of the boat. Thanks for everyone's help and ideas! TV all installed.
 
Upgrading Bennett Trim Tabs to AutoTrimPro... question on 20A(12V) power hookup.

So I decided that my 2020 upgrade to my 2004 340 Sundancer is going to be the Bennett AutoTrimPro (https://bennetttrimtabs.com/atp/). I purchased their AP000A1HA and ATPSENSTD (adds a sensor to existing hydraulic actuators) for a total of $485. I'm going to do the install myself. I actually think the hardest thing will be to remove the tops of the actuators to replace them with sensors because they are likely glued on with 5200, in addition to the 3 screws. Bought some De-Bond to prepare! Everything else looks fairly straight forward. With that said, I need to tap into a 20A(12V) at the transom area for the control unit. That's where I'm a little concerned and want to make sure I do this correctly.

The current hydraulic pump actually gets it's power via the EIM and the trim tab buttons on the helm. So there is no existing 20A tap in that area. I need to pull the EIM trim tab harness from the existing hydraulic pump and basically cap it. The hydraulic pump will now plug into the new AutoTrimPro control unit - but I need to get power to the control unit.

Does anyone know where I can/should tap a positive 12V power wire that is controlled by the master battery switch and has a 20amp fuse from the bilge area?

Thanks, Craig
 
I would just run a new wire and put a 20 amp breaker in the blank accy spot on the DC panel in the bilge.
 
Craig said:
I would just run a new wire and put a 20 amp breaker in the blank accy spot on the DC panel in the bilge.
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Thanks Craig (love your name)! I've never really looked at the DC panel in the bilge before and my boat is shrink wrapped now. Sounds like it should be real easy then! Appreciate the quick reply! Craig
 
Zorba said:
Re: Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundacer Thread

Anybody have any idea where the ambient temperature sensor(s) is? My air and water temperature are way off and I have an active alarm for the sensor.
Click to expand...

Hi Zorba
I have the same issue. I thought it was showing F instead of C (as Im in Australia/Metric) but that wasnt it either.
Let us know if you get an answer.
If I find anything I will be sure to let you know too :)
 
Ambient air temp sensor is low on the dash at the helm. If memory serves me correctly, low near the 12v connection.
 
mblockb said:
New props are on. Vibration 100% gone. Had my mover pull, switch props, and relaunch. Very smooth process. I will say if he didn't have a hydraulic puller it would have been impossible to get the props off. When they popped it sounded like a 22. Bought the new ones from Linden prop in IA. Excellent service. Received quite an education on props from them. Will be using them to have the old set reworked. Below is a link to the same props I purchased from an online seller.

https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.generalpropeller.com/4N18211.500RAZ85__;!uO4nKZm9OHkM!4O8odcvyWISSG735ao2VWKw_T-inKzJRFjxai3DIIYAilvX-1U9woiNTV4G3QWp5NzkUQ343Rg$
Click to expand...

Update on this old post. Received the reworked props back. Both look perfect, fully polished, with detailed scan reports showing they are back to factory spec. Hope to never need them and storing them away.
Reworked Props 2-17-20.jpg
 
I need a little help. I have all new batteries and have tested all 4 to double check. But when I start my MFD and turn on the ignition switches (whether I actually start or not), I get a low voltage warning. When I dig into my Mercury settings I see what appears to be the port (it's just on the left side, not actually marked) reading is at 11.3 and what appears to the be starboard side is at 12.5. This is all while connected to shore power. Same error when not connected to shore power. Any idea what to test for this low voltage issue?
 
It sounds like a ground issue no? What about testing the starting solenoids behind the panel in engine compartment. I had the solenoid go bad last season for the anchor
 
Anyone knows where I can purchase filler which goes on top of the table in the transom area couch so it can convert it into bed ?
 
RomanP said:
Anyone knows where I can purchase filler which goes on top of the table in the transom area couch so it can convert it into bed ?
Click to expand...
dagerringer said:
I need a little help. I have all new batteries and have tested all 4 to double check. But when I start my MFD and turn on the ignition switches (whether I actually start or not), I get a low voltage warning. When I dig into my Mercury settings I see what appears to be the port (it's just on the left side, not actually marked) reading is at 11.3 and what appears to the be starboard side is at 12.5. This is all while connected to shore power. Same error when not connected to shore power. Any idea what to test for this low voltage issue?
Click to expand...
Did u get this figured out?
 
RomanP said:
Anyone knows where I can purchase filler which goes on top of the table in the transom area couch so it can convert it into bed ?
Click to expand...

I you mean one of the Sun Pad Filler Cushions (PN: 11718768) for the 340SDA cockpit area like the ones pictures below we make them based on the original design and have them available in stock. If you want more info you can PM me here or get my contact info from our website and give me a call or fill out a request here.

340SDA-Filler-1.jpg 340SDA-Filler-2.jpg

We had several owners ask for them over the last couple of years and now we stock them. The color is Chalk White which is almost a perfect match for the original upholstery color (however yours may have aged by now).

Thanks
-Kevin
 
Hey Guys,

I got a rope stuck in my SidePower thruster on my 340, i dove in and untangled it, but then my SidePower stopped working.

1.) I removed the SidePower Motor and then activated the thruster, the rod end you see in the pic still spins and the shear pin seems to be fine.
2.) I turned the propeller shaft you see inbetween the two bolts and it seems to turn ok, but not much resistance..
3.) What would be your next step? What happens if i remove those two bolts?

Any help would be appreciated!

SidePower.jpg
Boat Pic.jpg
 
Newbie here...Im not sure where to start on this forum, so how about here. Its looking likely I'll be the owner of a 2004 340. Survey is this week. One of the items on this boat that I want to change is the current owner pulled the tv and pivot stand in the galley, which is great, I didn't want that set up anyway. But has anyone ordered some laminate or come up with another material to have a cabinet door made to fill this huge black hole, Im not finding anything using search. Thanks
 
silkywoods said:
Newbie here...Im not sure where to start on this forum, so how about here. Its looking likely I'll be the owner of a 2004 340. Survey is this week. One of the items on this boat that I want to change is the current owner pulled the tv and pivot stand in the galley, which is great, I didn't want that set up anyway. But has anyone ordered some laminate or come up with another material to have a cabinet door made to fill this huge black hole, Im not finding anything using search. Thanks
Click to expand...

More than likely you will not find an exact match for the laminate. However many people have repurposed that area for other uses like an liquor bottle / bar rack and others have installed wide screen on mounts. If you are like me and still want a door you may want to use the laminate panel in the refrigerator and replace that with something else.

Good luck with the survey and there is lots of great info on this model here on the site. If you have any other questions feel free to ask as I have the same model and have posted several mods if you search.

-Kevin
 
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