Official 19SPX/21SPX/SPX190/SPX210 Thread

I just want to say, “Thanks! again, Bridog - I FINALLY got around to mounting one of those stainless steel hatch “hold open” springs for The Admiral, an hour ago!

(In case it assists anyone else, I used a 7/64” bit to drill pilot holes (and then ever so lightly counterbored the two fiberglass holes with a 1/8” drill bit, slowly in reverse) and then

I used pan head Phillips stainless steel sheet metal screws #6 x 3/8” long in the 1/2” thick (synthetic (plastic?) hatch lid top; and #6 x 1/2” long for the bottom bracket (into the fiberglass) ...

The Admiral is thrilled - we no longer have to worry about anyone’s (especially little grandchildren’s! :-O getting their fingers (or head) slammed as they try to juggle holding that hatch lid open while simultaneously trying to retrieve anything out of that compartment (while the boat is moving)!
Oh no you put it on backwards!


Just kidding.....looks good.
 

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Hey moondoggie - Glad you got that sorted out!

I am curious what tipped you the hub in the prop may need replacing?

I ask as, last week we were towing 2 of the grand kiddies (13yoa = 130lbs and 9yoa =70lbs) on a SportStuff ‘Big Mable’ and there were a couple times the rpms shot up but without a corresponding “forward momentum” of the boat - it almost felt as if the prop was out of the water ... VERY weird. We shut the boat down momentarily and I checked the prop etc as best I could from the water and I didn’t notice anything out of order.

We fired the boat back up and quit towing (it was late and time to wrap that activity up, anyway) but, I took the boat up to WOT on a straight run and it didn’t do it again.

We just go back into town after returning the kids to their parents and haven’t had the oppty to take the boat out again (we’re both pretty nervous thinking about it)


That is what I get, not consistent thou. Sometimes it comes up on plane ok, other times it is over revving and not getting the speed with it. There have been times when I would be at 4200 rpm and only running about 21-22. I could back off the throttle a bit and the rpm would drop to around 3200 rpm with no change in speed. You could feel it bite when I did that. Hopeing the hub change will change that. I have not had a chance to get the boat out since I changed it. Other times, I could give it more throttle at cruising with just RPM change and speed would not increase at it should.
I have 80 hours on the motor.
 
On closer look, mine is different. Seems more finished. I have a 2015 190 SPX OB with the Merc four stroke 150HP.

I had the motor lowered which exposed the gap. I filled it in with some 3M 4000 sealant and it looks good again.
I guess Sea Ray has to have that gap in the transom for the motor brackets to hang properly off the back.
 
That is what I get, not consistent thou. Sometimes it comes up on plane ok, other times it is over revving and not getting the speed with it. There have been times when I would be at 4200 rpm and only running about 21-22. I could back off the throttle a bit and the rpm would drop to around 3200 rpm with no change in speed. You could feel it bite when I did that. Hopeing the hub change will change that. I have not had a chance to get the boat out since I changed it. Other times, I could give it more throttle at cruising with just RPM change and speed would not increase at it should.
I have 80 hours on the motor.

Okay, THANK YOU! Good news on several fronts for The Admiral and I then: 1) we have an excuse to take the boat out (ha-ha! never mind the humidity is back in our area (ugh) but, we can aim for a sunset cruise when things cool off a bit; 2) we had the foresight to order not only an extra hub but a complete set of the all the parts needed to do a prop install BUT ALSO AN ADD’L set came with the spare prop we ordered to have on hand “just in case”; and finally, 3) I constructed a gangway out of sistered 2x4’s that span our covered docks boat slip so, if we need to, a hub change shouldn’t require us trailering the boat, at all.

QUESTION: is there a way we can check to see if the hub is spun while we are running the boat on the water one evening this week, without pulling a tube or any other load?

Thanks AGAIN (and again! :)

In case it helps anyone else, for my Mercury 150hp 4-spd Model # 1150F23HO in Serial # Range 2B46615_
the Drive Sleeve is Part # 835290Q1 (that is the rectangular delrin sleeve by itself)
(If I want the complete Flo-Torq II Hub KIT that is Part #835257K1 )

Oh yeah, came across this in case it is of interest to any others:
Mercury Marine Prop Hubs Protect Your Outboard
 
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That is what I get, not consistent thou. Sometimes it comes up on plane ok, other times it is over revving and not getting the speed with it. There have been times when I would be at 4200 rpm and only running about 21-22. I could back off the throttle a bit and the rpm would drop to around 3200 rpm with no change in speed. You could feel it bite when I did that. Hopeing the hub change will change that. I have not had a chance to get the boat out since I changed it. Other times, I could give it more throttle at cruising with just RPM change and speed would not increase at it should.
I have 80 hours on the motor.

Hey Moondoggie, (or any of you Outboard gurus here in CSR) I have a couple of questions that I am hoping you or any of the other Outboard gurus here in CSR might be able to answer for my wife and I.

(Boat has less than 50 hours on it and at best only 1/4 those pulling an inflatable towable - and never more than either 2 kids or 1 kid and 1 adult. Changed lower gear lube and engine oil and filter last Fall; installed VesselView a month or so ago)

We went ahead and swapped out the black rectangular Delrin prop hub (aka drive sleeve) that was inside the prop and we cannot find ANY sign of cracking or ANY hint of deformation. At all. But then, we really do not know what or where we should be looking, either! :)

Color ... us ... confused ... (and apprehensive if the bizarre revving we noticed when pulling 2 kids on a towable earlier this month through some rough chop indicates there is something wrong with the drive gears or other assemblies inside the lower gear unit?)

We are also wondering if, due to the temporarily heavy waves (there was a purpose designed wake boat also in the vicinity) that the prop may have come out of the water momentarily and that may be what made the rpm skyrocket briefly, without any change in forward momentum?

Even though the old prop-hub / drive-sleeve looked (looks) perfectly normal, I went ahead and installed a brand new Mercury OEM prop-hub / drive-sleeve anyway (we have a huge crowd coming to visit end of next month so I figured, “We’ve gone to this much trouble, why not just install a new one now that we have the prop off.”)

Here are my questions:

1) did you see any signs of cracking or deformation or ANYthing different about your old prop hub / drive sleeve, when you swapped it out for a new one? I did see some very faint lateral lines that I tried to capture in the first photo and, I am wondering if they indicate what y’all refer to as “spinning” (although, I assumed spinning meant the 4 legs on the outside of the cylindrical metal thrust hub (that goes inside the black delrin rectangular drive sleeve and over the prop shaft) actually come out of the corresponding grooves in the drive sleeve. The 2nd photo shows the inside of the prop hub / drive sleeve we removed and how intact and “sharp edged” the 4 grooves inside it remain.

2) where else should we look for anything abnormal?
I ask as, all other parts of the prop and shaft assembly look normal with but 2 possible exceptions: First, I noticed some wear at the furthest in, “base” portion of the shaft that I can see the slightest start of rust on - in 3rd and 4th picture -

3) is there anything abnormal about that “ring of wear” around the shaft, in 3rd and 4th photos?

4) is there anything abnormal about the uneven around the circumference of the “mouth” / opening in the prop itself , in 5th and 6th photos? There is actually one spot in the photo so sharp it easily catches your skin, as you run your finger around the inside of the opening ...

Finally, the last photos #’s 7 & 8 are just included to show how “sharp” and intact all the splines are - the female grooves on the shaft itself and the male splines on the thrust hub ...

Thanks in advance for any insight - since this is our first boat we’re not quite sure if all the photos simply show, “what is normal” or, if anything is indicative of another challenge or need for adjustment / repair ...
 

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I also could not see any obvious wear on the prop hub when compared to the new hub.
Hopefully I will be able to water test the new one within a couple of weeks.

View attachment 73189 View attachment 73190

Hey Moondoggie, (or any of you Outboard gurus here in CSR) I have a couple of questions that I am hoping you or any of the other Outboard gurus here in CSR might be able to answer for my wife and I.

(Boat has less than 50 hours on it and at best only 1/4 those pulling an inflatable towable - and never more than either 2 kids or 1 kid and 1 adult. Changed lower gear lube and engine oil and filter last Fall; installed VesselView a month or so ago)

We went ahead and swapped out the black rectangular Delrin prop hub (aka drive sleeve) that was inside the prop and we cannot find ANY sign of cracking or ANY hint of deformation. At all. But then, we really do not know what or where we should be looking, either! :)

Color ... us ... confused ... (and apprehensive if the bizarre revving we noticed when pulling 2 kids on a towable earlier this month through some rough chop indicates there is something wrong with the drive gears or other assemblies inside the lower gear unit?)

We are also wondering if, due to the temporarily heavy waves (there was a purpose designed wake boat also in the vicinity) that the prop may have come out of the water momentarily and that may be what made the rpm skyrocket briefly, without any change in forward momentum?

Even though the old prop-hub / drive-sleeve looked (looks) perfectly normal, I went ahead and installed a brand new Mercury OEM prop-hub / drive-sleeve anyway (we have a huge crowd coming to visit end of next month so I figured, “We’ve gone to this much trouble, why not just install a new one now that we have the prop off.”)

Here are my questions:

1) did you see any signs of cracking or deformation or ANYthing different about your old prop hub / drive sleeve, when you swapped it out for a new one? I did see some very faint lateral lines that I tried to capture in the first photo and, I am wondering if they indicate what y’all refer to as “spinning” (although, I assumed spinning meant the 4 legs on the outside of the cylindrical metal thrust hub (that goes inside the black delrin rectangular drive sleeve and over the prop shaft) actually come out of the corresponding grooves in the drive sleeve. The 2nd photo shows the inside of the prop hub / drive sleeve we removed and how intact and “sharp edged” the 4 grooves inside it remain.

2) where else should we look for anything abnormal?
I ask as, all other parts of the prop and shaft assembly look normal with but 2 possible exceptions: First, I noticed some wear at the furthest in, “base” portion of the shaft that I can see the slightest start of rust on - in 3rd and 4th picture -

3) is there anything abnormal about that “ring of wear” around the shaft, in 3rd and 4th photos?

4) is there anything abnormal about the uneven around the circumference of the “mouth” / opening in the prop itself , in 5th and 6th photos? There is actually one spot in the photo so sharp it easily catches your skin, as you run your finger around the inside of the opening ...

Finally, the last photos #’s 7 & 8 are just included to show how “sharp” and intact all the splines are - the female grooves on the shaft itself and the male splines on the thrust hub ...

Thanks in advance for any insight - since this is our first boat we’re not quite sure if all the photos simply show, “what is normal” or, if anything is indicative of another challenge or need for adjustment / repair ...
 
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QUESTION: is there a way we can check to see if the hub is spun while we are running the boat on the water one evening this week, without pulling a tube or any other load?

Thanks AGAIN (and again! :)

In case it helps anyone else, for my Mercury 150hp 4-spd Model # 1150F23HO in Serial # Range 2B46615_
the Drive Sleeve is Part # 835290Q1 (that is the rectangular delrin sleeve by itself)
(If I want the complete Flo-Torq II Hub KIT that is Part #835257K1 )

Oh yeah, came across this in case it is of interest to any others:
Mercury Marine Prop Hubs Protect Your Outboard

Came across this on You Tube on checking for spun hub.

 
ThorSen, Just thinking that we might want to move this question to the general forum and off this thread. Might get more views and someone that knows the answers.

View attachment 73189 View attachment 73190

Hey Moondoggie, (or any of you Outboard gurus here in CSR) I have a couple of questions that I am hoping you or any of the other Outboard gurus here in CSR might be able to answer for my wife and I.

(Boat has less than 50 hours on it and at best only 1/4 those pulling an inflatable towable - and never more than either 2 kids or 1 kid and 1 adult. Changed lower gear lube and engine oil and filter last Fall; installed VesselView a month or so ago)

We went ahead and swapped out the black rectangular Delrin prop hub (aka drive sleeve) that was inside the prop and we cannot find ANY sign of cracking or ANY hint of deformation. At all. But then, we really do not know what or where we should be looking, either! :)

Color ... us ... confused ... (and apprehensive if the bizarre revving we noticed when pulling 2 kids on a towable earlier this month through some rough chop indicates there is something wrong with the drive gears or other assemblies inside the lower gear unit?)

We are also wondering if, due to the temporarily heavy waves (there was a purpose designed wake boat also in the vicinity) that the prop may have come out of the water momentarily and that may be what made the rpm skyrocket briefly, without any change in forward momentum?

Even though the old prop-hub / drive-sleeve looked (looks) perfectly normal, I went ahead and installed a brand new Mercury OEM prop-hub / drive-sleeve anyway (we have a huge crowd coming to visit end of next month so I figured, “We’ve gone to this much trouble, why not just install a new one now that we have the prop off.”)

Here are my questions:

1) did you see any signs of cracking or deformation or ANYthing different about your old prop hub / drive sleeve, when you swapped it out for a new one? I did see some very faint lateral lines that I tried to capture in the first photo and, I am wondering if they indicate what y’all refer to as “spinning” (although, I assumed spinning meant the 4 legs on the outside of the cylindrical metal thrust hub (that goes inside the black delrin rectangular drive sleeve and over the prop shaft) actually come out of the corresponding grooves in the drive sleeve. The 2nd photo shows the inside of the prop hub / drive sleeve we removed and how intact and “sharp edged” the 4 grooves inside it remain.

2) where else should we look for anything abnormal?
I ask as, all other parts of the prop and shaft assembly look normal with but 2 possible exceptions: First, I noticed some wear at the furthest in, “base” portion of the shaft that I can see the slightest start of rust on - in 3rd and 4th picture -

3) is there anything abnormal about that “ring of wear” around the shaft, in 3rd and 4th photos?

4) is there anything abnormal about the uneven around the circumference of the “mouth” / opening in the prop itself , in 5th and 6th photos? There is actually one spot in the photo so sharp it easily catches your skin, as you run your finger around the inside of the opening ...

Finally, the last photos #’s 7 & 8 are just included to show how “sharp” and intact all the splines are - the female grooves on the shaft itself and the male splines on the thrust hub ...

Thanks in advance for any insight - since this is our first boat we’re not quite sure if all the photos simply show, “what is normal” or, if anything is indicative of another challenge or need for adjustment / repair ...
 
Excellent idea - we are going to take the SPX-190 out for a test drive shortly (although we don’t have anyone to tow behind us on any of our inflatable towables) - I will endeavor to move my post # 427 over to the “General Maintenance” (or, General Discussion”) forums later, after we get boat tucked in and covered, etc. (Any assist from forum mods is appreciated)

Edit: hey, that video is priceless (doh! Why didn’t I think of THAT?!!! :). Thanks!
 
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Checking for a spun hub without removing prop... On the type of hubs you guys have (and pretty much all Mercury/Mercruiser stuff for quite some time), you really can't tell because that bronze piece is in the way. With older style hubs (rubber), you can see the rubber so you can make an alignment mark - even a marker will work - and then go for a ride and see if the mark has moved.

A spun hub won't "fix" itself, though. It only gets worse. The more load you put on it, the more it will slip... and eventually will slip with less and less load.

It doesn't sound like you have spun a prop - especially after looking at your pics. Spinning a hub with that style hub is nearly unheard of - nowhere near as often as the older, rubber style.

So... what could have happened to cause that erratic RPM spike? A couple thoughts...
-- As you were thinking, "catching air" from a large wake could certainly cause it.
-- Trimming up too high for the conditions can also cause the prop to ventilate - especially in high speed turns or bouncy conditions.
-- It's also possible that the engine is mounted too high. If you look at the four bolts securing the engine to the transom, you'll see that there are multiple options as to engine height. Believe it or not, dropping one hole can have a noticeable impact. Too low and you lose speed... too high and you ventilate -gotta find the happy point. The right position is found by looking at the ant-ventilation plate while going along at a nice pace - say 30+MPH. The plate should just barely be skimming across the top of the water. You can also contact Sea Ray or your dealer and see what they recommend (off hand, I do not remember the proper holes).

There is nothing wrong with your drive gears.
 
LazyDaze, YOUDA MAN!

Seriously, it’s hard for me to express how much it means to a “green rookie” such as myself (heck, add blind too, ha-ha!) to have someone with your breadth and depth of experience to offer up!

My wife and I each survived 30 year careers by “over-thinking” situations and we buried more than a few associates who did not (and, even sadder, some who were appropriately deliberate in word and action and still were taken too early :-/

thank you, Thank You, THANK YOU

(We’re going to observe that plate next time we’re out (another good excuse to cruise the lake :) !!!!
 
LazyDaze, YOUDA MAN!

Seriously, it’s hard for me to express how much it means to a “green rookie” such as myself (heck, add blind too, ha-ha!) to have someone with your breadth and depth of experience to offer up!

My wife and I each survived 30 year careers by “over-thinking” situations and we buried more than a few associates who did not (and, even sadder, some who were appropriately deliberate in word and action and still were taken too early :-/

thank you, Thank You, THANK YOU

(We’re going to observe that plate next time we’re out (another good excuse to cruise the lake :) !!!!

I lowered mine 2 notches and was still experiencing the issue. Trimmed all the way in. My plate prior to lowering was riding several inches above the waterline. Acted like I had weeds on the prop.
 
I snapped a photo of each side of ours but, didn’t realize until we got back to the house to discover the lighting wasn’t conducive to these old eyes seeing exactly which holes our motor is mounted at ...
 

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Hi, my parents have a 19SPX and I'm looking to summerize it. However, the marina that winterized it told me that if I were to do what my dad told me to (check the basics, run the motor with muffs for 15-20 mins, etc.) that I could ruin the boat and I should just bring it to them to summarize instead. Are they just trying to make a few extra bucks, or am I not able to do this myself? Sorry for the ignorance, any sort of help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Victor; and, Welcome to the forums, here at CSR!

I was right where you are and probably way behind you as I didn’t even have the experience you list; however; I spent quite a bit of time searching YouTube and discovered a ton of absolutely priceless videos that run you through how to winterize, change fluids, the gamut!

As I watched then I would ”Save” or “Bookmark” them to my iPad AND I ALSO started and kept 2 running Lists: one of the tools I needed (some I had and some I had to obtain) and the second of the parts and part #’s I needed (to procure things like oil filters, spark plugs, etc.

One tip I carried over from maintaining our stable of jet skis is that I drain old engine oil into a big BIG measuring cup which allows to determine precisely how much oil I removed and after making an allowance for 2-3 oz that was left in the old filter , I am able to ensure I put the correct amount of new oil back in.

Here’re a couple to get you started:

Changing Engine Oil:

Winterization & Storage:

Another Winterization & Storage:

4-stroke Maintenance:

Changing Lower Unit Gear Lube:

Hey, Best o’ Success!
 
I snapped a photo of each side of ours but, didn’t realize until we got back to the house to discover the lighting wasn’t conducive to these old eyes seeing exactly which holes our motor is mounted at ...

If it is mounted second hole from bottom, I believe you are high. I think but have not seen myself that they are being mounted second from top now.
 
LazyDaze, YOUDA MAN!

Seriously, it’s hard for me to express how much it means to a “green rookie” such as myself (heck, add blind too, ha-ha!) to have someone with your breadth and depth of experience to offer up!

My wife and I each survived 30 year careers by “over-thinking” situations and we buried more than a few associates who did not (and, even sadder, some who were appropriately deliberate in word and action and still were taken too early :-/

thank you, Thank You, THANK YOU

(We’re going to observe that plate next time we’re out (another good excuse to cruise the lake :) !!!!
Well, you give me too much credit! But thank you! Sounds like the two of you had tough/demanding careers?
 
Well, you give me too much credit! But thank you! Sounds like the two of you had tough/demanding careers?
Aye. The important thing is all that is behind us now, the quieter it is, the more comfortable we are!

If it is mounted second hole from bottom, I believe you are high. I think but have not seen myself that they are being mounted second from top now.
It is the second hole from the bottom and, for better or worse, that is where it is gonna have to stay cuz’ I have no practical or pragmatic way to move it, ha-ha! (We leave our boat on a covered lift above the water 365; and, while I am very happy with the DIY modular gangplank system we devised in order to do our own preventative maintenance and service without the need to take the boat in and out of the water but, well, as one of Clint Eastwood’s famous characters once said (through his teeth), “A man’s gotta know his limitations ...:) :) :) Maybe if we ever have to have the boat taken to a dealer for other major work (but, no time in the foreseeable future!)
 

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Excellent idea - we are going to take the SPX-190 out for a test drive shortly (although we don’t have anyone to tow behind us on any of our inflatable towables) - I will endeavor to move my post # 427 over to the “General Maintenance” (or, General Discussion”) forums later, after we get boat tucked in and covered, etc. (Any assist from forum mods is appreciated)

Edit: hey, that video is priceless (doh! Why didn’t I think of THAT?!!! :). Thanks!

Did you get a chance to test out the new hub?
 

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