Those all came from https://newwiremarine.com/ if I remember correctly. You can just order the switch caps, but in my case I replaced the actual switches as well.Bob, May I ask who you purchased those beautiful switches from?
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Those all came from https://newwiremarine.com/ if I remember correctly. You can just order the switch caps, but in my case I replaced the actual switches as well.Bob, May I ask who you purchased those beautiful switches from?
Bob, I'm reposting my question about the port fuel sender in case you didn't see it. Did you attempt remove the port fuel sender? I was hoping I might be able to angle it out once the mounting screws are out. I prefer the magnetic reed switch senders because they're stable under way and were extremely accurate in my previous 30' Cruisers boat. They were within a gallon as well (I ordered the optional high resolution reed switch PCB). I appreciate the full picture on the ultrasonic sensors.The small plotter to the lower left is a Garmin GPSMAP 7408. I use it mainly for my sonar, stereo control, and NMEA switching. I use the 12" screen for Plotter and Radar display. For Gobius, you'd be looking at the Gobius-C with the optional metal tank adapter. The factory senders in your tanks are of the swing-arm variety, which means there is no need to move the Port tank, as its possible to remove ithe sender within the space between the tank and the sole. I agonized over that for quite a bit before I just dug in to deal with it.
I hear you with respect to reserve capacity. I was even more nervous when I had to rely on the notoriously inaccurate Sea Ray Gage/Sender setup. With the ultrasonic sender and NMEA gage, the port gage read 25% and it took exactly 74 gallons to fill it up. The Starboard side was just as accurate, but I don't remember the exact numbers.
Even so, I start getting nervous under 30 gallons per tank.
One thing about ultrasonics, though is if you are up on plane, they won't be quite as accurate because the fuel under the sender is not as level. Still a far cry from the original setup. They do have focus tubes, but to install those, you do have to move the tanks for a straight shot down into the sender hole. (either that or cut holes in your deck)
Bob,
Bob, I'm reposting my question about the port fuel sender in case you didn't see it. Did you attempt remove the port fuel sender? I was hoping I might be able to angle it out once the mounting screws are out. I prefer the magnetic reed switch senders because they're stable under way and were extremely accurate in my previous 30' Cruisers boat. They were within a gallon as well (I ordered the optional high resolution reed switch PCB). I appreciate the full picture on the ultrasonic sensors.
Just seeing this post. Did you have any luck in getting the parts? More importantly, did you getir repairerd? I am constantly trying to figure out my cabin door. I have made many part purchases, but never get it corrected.I looked, (perhaps not long and hard enough) I need help navigating this site. I'm sure the info is here somewhere, I just cant seem to locate it. Maybe it's not and then if that's the case, I need Help with the cabin door on my 2000 310. Boat outfitters seem to have some parts but without tearing everything apart first,. (I'm scared) Anyone have a parts list that works from this company? I appreciate all help
Bob, Thanks very much. Sounds the rod and magnet sender with the reed switches would not fit without installing an unsightly deck plate. Not a good option.Yes. you can remove the port sender without moving the tank or cutting a hole (at least on the 2002). The sender is of the swing-arm type so you can angle it out after removing the screws. However, if the sender you are replacing it with has a vertical profile, you'll be left with the same issue.
Not a big fan of the dual head layout. Seems like an awkward arrangement.
Bob, Thanks very much. Sounds the rod and magnet sender with the reed switches would not fit without installing an unsightly deck plate. Not a good option.
Yeah. That's one of the reasons (besides being a nerd) I went with the ultrasonic sensor.
Bob, I'm a bit of nerd as well. Did you use the focus tubes? Did you determine if there was enough room to get them in the port tank? They seem like they would be a big improvement.
Bob, I saw in one of your earlier posts you mentioned removing the rectangular vinyl pad on the starboard side of the arch in order to fish wires up to the top of the arch. Can you share how you removed it?There is a virtual cavern behind the cupholder panel with easy access to power.
Bob, I saw in one of your earlier posts you mentioned removing the rectangular vinyl pad on the starboard side of the arch in order to fish wires up to the top of the arch. Can you share how you removed it?
I wasn't able to see any fasteners so I'm thinking there are some sort of spring clips.
Bob, Thanks for helping us avoid this issue. Are you referring to the bulkhead to the right when you remove the plastic cup/chart holder panel? Happy Holidays to you and your family!I don't know if I mentioned it earlier but;
If you drill holes to run wires between the helm and the arch, make sure you seal or grommet the wires in order to prevent engine fumes from running into the cabin and making your CO detector lose it's mind. (ask me how I know)
Right. the bulkhead to the right that separates the helm and the area above the starboard fuel tank. There is also a horizontal plank above, where the arch meets the gunwale that you may have to drill through, but you probably don't have to seal that one.Bob, Thanks for helping us avoid this issue. Are you referring to the bulkhead to the right when you remove the plastic cup/chart holder panel? Happy Holidays to you and your family!