Official (1998-2002) 310 Sundancer Thread

Thanks very much. I plan to replace the switches as well. Torn between cool white and blue lights!
 
Bob,
The small plotter to the lower left is a Garmin GPSMAP 7408. I use it mainly for my sonar, stereo control, and NMEA switching. I use the 12" screen for Plotter and Radar display. For Gobius, you'd be looking at the Gobius-C with the optional metal tank adapter. The factory senders in your tanks are of the swing-arm variety, which means there is no need to move the Port tank, as its possible to remove ithe sender within the space between the tank and the sole. I agonized over that for quite a bit before I just dug in to deal with it.

I hear you with respect to reserve capacity. I was even more nervous when I had to rely on the notoriously inaccurate Sea Ray Gage/Sender setup. With the ultrasonic sender and NMEA gage, the port gage read 25% and it took exactly 74 gallons to fill it up. The Starboard side was just as accurate, but I don't remember the exact numbers.

Even so, I start getting nervous under 30 gallons per tank.

One thing about ultrasonics, though is if you are up on plane, they won't be quite as accurate because the fuel under the sender is not as level. Still a far cry from the original setup. They do have focus tubes, but to install those, you do have to move the tanks for a straight shot down into the sender hole. (either that or cut holes in your deck)
Bob, I'm reposting my question about the port fuel sender in case you didn't see it. Did you attempt remove the port fuel sender? I was hoping I might be able to angle it out once the mounting screws are out. I prefer the magnetic reed switch senders because they're stable under way and were extremely accurate in my previous 30' Cruisers boat. They were within a gallon as well (I ordered the optional high resolution reed switch PCB). I appreciate the full picture on the ultrasonic sensors.
 
By the way, I think I finally discovered why there's a concealed portlight on the 1998-2002 310's.
For the 1998 model year there was an early version with a jack and jill head in the center of the boat.
It's a completely different cabin layout and both opening portlights on the port side are above the galley.
Earlier 310 Model 14.JPG
Earlier 310 Model 17.JPG
Earlier 310 Model 6.JPG
Earlier 310 Model 4.JPG
Earlier 310 Model 16.JPG
 
The mid-cabin is behind the head with it's own door to the head. Great concept but not a good utilization of space on a boat this size. In my opinion it makes the interior more closed off and confined.
 
Bob,

Bob, I'm reposting my question about the port fuel sender in case you didn't see it. Did you attempt remove the port fuel sender? I was hoping I might be able to angle it out once the mounting screws are out. I prefer the magnetic reed switch senders because they're stable under way and were extremely accurate in my previous 30' Cruisers boat. They were within a gallon as well (I ordered the optional high resolution reed switch PCB). I appreciate the full picture on the ultrasonic sensors.

Yes. you can remove the port sender without moving the tank or cutting a hole (at least on the 2002). The sender is of the swing-arm type so you can angle it out after removing the screws. However, if the sender you are replacing it with has a vertical profile, you'll be left with the same issue.

Not a big fan of the dual head layout. Seems like an awkward arrangement.
 
I looked, (perhaps not long and hard enough) I need help navigating this site. I'm sure the info is here somewhere, I just cant seem to locate it. Maybe it's not and then if that's the case, I need Help with the cabin door on my 2000 310. Boat outfitters seem to have some parts but without tearing everything apart first,. (I'm scared) Anyone have a parts list that works from this company? I appreciate all help
Just seeing this post. Did you have any luck in getting the parts? More importantly, did you getir repairerd? I am constantly trying to figure out my cabin door. I have made many part purchases, but never get it corrected.
 
Yes. you can remove the port sender without moving the tank or cutting a hole (at least on the 2002). The sender is of the swing-arm type so you can angle it out after removing the screws. However, if the sender you are replacing it with has a vertical profile, you'll be left with the same issue.

Not a big fan of the dual head layout. Seems like an awkward arrangement.
Bob, Thanks very much. Sounds the rod and magnet sender with the reed switches would not fit without installing an unsightly deck plate. Not a good option.
 
Bob, Thanks very much. Sounds the rod and magnet sender with the reed switches would not fit without installing an unsightly deck plate. Not a good option.

Yeah. That's one of the reasons (besides being a nerd) I went with the ultrasonic sensor.
 
Yeah. That's one of the reasons (besides being a nerd) I went with the ultrasonic sensor.

Bob, I'm a bit of nerd as well. Did you use the focus tubes? Did you determine if there was enough room to get them in the port tank? They seem like they would be a big improvement.

Not a fan of the Gobius fuel sensors - my sense is the adhesive tape would fail in the marine environment. Also, having two sensors and trying to calibrate between them seems like it could be a challenge to get right. Maretron's ultrasonic fuel sensors seem to have a much more robust design that's "plug and play" and better suited to marine applications.

Unfortunately the marine electronics company that installed my sonar transducers didn't leave a enough thread on top of the thru fitting for the SIMRAD ForwardScan transducer's o-ring to seat and seal properly. It leaked so bad we had to cancel our sea trial last week. Thankfully they're coming back out Tuesday to correct it and I just may get out on the water on Wednesday. Fingers crossed!

By the way, I agree with your comment about the Jack and Jill head layout being awkward. Se Ray stopped producing this version during the first year of production so I'm sure most customers reacted they way we did. That said, apparently the small group of people that have this version seem to love it. Something for everyone!

I decided to have my fiberglass guy cut out the leaky portlight out and fiberglass the hole with a shallow recess so we can install a faux portlight (outer frame and lens only). This solution preserves the boat's exterior aesthetics, eliminates the leak and eliminates the need to install an unsightly deck plate in the beautiful head module (would have been necessary to disassemble the portlight from inside the head). The result will be no rain water on the floor in the mid cabin like other 310 owners have complained about.
 
Bob, I'm a bit of nerd as well. Did you use the focus tubes? Did you determine if there was enough room to get them in the port tank? They seem like they would be a big improvement.

There is enough room to remove the old sensor and install the Maretron. However, installing the focus tube would require the tank to be temporarily moved, or some deck surgery. The result is you may temporarily lose accuracy when coming up on plane, but should return once the bow is trimmed down. I would imagine choppy seas would have a similar effect.

Sounds like a good solution to seal the porthole.
 
I just may install a deck plate to get the accuracy of a magnetic sender. When you order them with the higher resolution reed switch assembly they become extremely accurate - within a gallon (had them on my last boast). KUS now makes an N2K version of their magnetic sender and N2K fuel gauge that looks almost identical to the SR factory gauges except for the KUS logo. Need to give this some serious thought before surgery!
 
I shared as much detail as possible on what I learned about the "port light to no where" because I know some other frustrated SR owner will be struggling to find a solution just like I was. The Jack and Jill head layout was really what floored me about this. I doubt SR made many other mid-year cabin layout changes of this magnitude - it was a completely different cabin layout. At least there was a logical reason for them to keep this portlight - although I would have preferred they made it a faux port light to begin with.
 
There is a virtual cavern behind the cupholder panel with easy access to power.
Bob, I saw in one of your earlier posts you mentioned removing the rectangular vinyl pad on the starboard side of the arch in order to fish wires up to the top of the arch. Can you share how you removed it?

I wasn't able to see any fasteners so I'm thinking there are some sort of spring clips.
 
Bob, I saw in one of your earlier posts you mentioned removing the rectangular vinyl pad on the starboard side of the arch in order to fish wires up to the top of the arch. Can you share how you removed it?

I wasn't able to see any fasteners so I'm thinking there are some sort of spring clips.

Those are Christmas-tree fasteners (friction fit). You have to slide something behind the pad and pry outwards (taking care not to scratch the fg of course). I use a snap tool.

71ajHo6pF8L._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 

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I don't know if I mentioned it earlier but;
If you drill holes to run wires between the helm and the arch, make sure you seal or grommet the wires in order to prevent engine fumes from running into the cabin and making your CO detector lose it's mind. (ask me how I know)
 
I don't know if I mentioned it earlier but;
If you drill holes to run wires between the helm and the arch, make sure you seal or grommet the wires in order to prevent engine fumes from running into the cabin and making your CO detector lose it's mind. (ask me how I know)
Bob, Thanks for helping us avoid this issue. Are you referring to the bulkhead to the right when you remove the plastic cup/chart holder panel? Happy Holidays to you and your family!
 
Bob, Thanks for helping us avoid this issue. Are you referring to the bulkhead to the right when you remove the plastic cup/chart holder panel? Happy Holidays to you and your family!
Right. the bulkhead to the right that separates the helm and the area above the starboard fuel tank. There is also a horizontal plank above, where the arch meets the gunwale that you may have to drill through, but you probably don't have to seal that one.
 
Bob, Thanks very much for confirming. Hope you and your family are enjoying the holidays.
 

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