Official (1998-2002) 310 Sundancer Thread

I'm curious about the height of the boat stands others are using.

I will be hauling our 2001 310 (with V-drives) for the first time a few weeks from now. My last boat only needed 4 stands, which appear to be suitable for the stern and mid locations, but I will need two taller stands for the bow. The sizing tool I found on Brownell's website says that the two front stands should be sailboat stands with a height range of 35" - 52". but the information they have you submit is pretty generic (boat length, beam, draft)

A note from the previous owner said that the bow stands he used were set to 56" tall. I can see from some photos that the front stands were taller, but 56" seems quite high to me and above the range of most of the listed stands.

Can anyone tell me height of the stands they use for this boat? I doubt it helps any, but I uploaded a photo from the original ad when the boat was on stands.

Bow 2.jpg
 
I have a 2000 310. I noticed very small stress cracks by my bow anchor windless motor. I’m curious if anybody else has them to. My surveyor showed very little moisture up there.
 
threejays said:
I have a 2000 310. I noticed very small stress cracks by my bow anchor windless motor. I’m curious if anybody else has them to. My surveyor showed very little moisture up there.
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Not seeing that on mine. That said, that area is under a lot of...well....stress, so stress cracks wouldn't be too surprising at this age.
 
Yeah, the moisture level was low in that area, my surveyor recommended re caulking. I’m going to have it inspected by a fiberglass expert just to make sure somethings not going on.
 
Yes that's what I think too, there very minor and you can't feel them with your nail. I try to pull it up very slow, but I also know the wife has ran it up pretty quick!
 
Looking for some clarification on exhaust gaskets. I just installed new manifolds/risers/elbows on my 2002 310 with 5.7 horizons. The engine is FWC and the manifolds/risers are RWC (one hose from the heat exchanger to the bottom of the manifold). I used full flow gaskets above and below the riser per the Mercruiser service bulletin 99-10. The starboard risers on both motors are now HOT to the touch. I gathered some info and found I may need restrictor gaskets? Can anyone chime in. I can’t find a straight answer and my old gaskets were toast, nor do I trust the previous owner. Thanks!
 
CT_SeaRay said:
Looking for some clarification on exhaust gaskets. I just installed new manifolds/risers/elbows on my 2002 310 with 5.7 horizons. The engine is FWC and the manifolds/risers are RWC (one hose from the heat exchanger to the bottom of the manifold). I used full flow gaskets above and below the riser per the Mercruiser service bulletin 99-10. The starboard risers on both motors are now HOT to the touch. I gathered some info and found I may need restrictor gaskets? Can anyone chime in. I can’t find a straight answer and my old gaskets were toast, nor do I trust the previous owner. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Sounds like you used the wrong gaskets. If it's a closed cooling system you need to use a block off gasket between the elbow and the riser.
Is it a full closed cooling system or partial?
 
@HawkX66 Partial closed cooling. My engine block is fresh water cooled (antifreeze) and my manifolds and risers are sea water cooled.
 
Murf said:
Do you have vdrives??
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Just an update my trim motor went bad and called Bennett for some input.They said the tabs on this boat weren’t sufficient and not what they recommended to SEARAY! I’m putting new 30 inch tabs and am optimistic that it will improve performance! Put the bow in the water where it belongs! Plus hopefully better fuel economy! I’ll keep you updated.
 
threejays said:
I have a 2000 310. I noticed very small stress cracks by my bow anchor windless motor. I’m curious if anybody else has them to. My surveyor showed very little moisture up there.[/QUOT
threejays said:
I have a 2000 310. I noticed very small stress cracks by my bow anchor windless motor. I’m curious if anybody else has them to. My surveyor showed very little moisture up there.
Click to expand...
Same boat here... No stress cracks, but surveyor noticed some moisture...
Click to expand...
 
New Thread? Can't find the proper info. If someone can lead me in the correct direction... 2000 310 with a F&%#*ed up cabin door. needs many parts... Best place for info, parts lists and guidance? Thanks
 
I'm looking to purchase my first boat and really like the Sea Ray 310. I have two of them in my sights and they both look equally cared for and thought I'd ask for others thoughts. They are equivalently priced.

Boat 1) 2001 T-MX 6.2L Bravo III, 650hrs, generator (1100 hrs), no trailer, no radar or gps, will have to ship it about 300 miles, fresh water boat

Boat 2) 2000 VD-T-350 Magnum® MPI MerCruiser V-Drive, 800 hrs, no generator, no trailer, radar+gps, will have to ship it about 150 miles, fresh water boat

I live in the Great Lakes area and have a slip lined up in Grand Haven, MI. I have a whopping 15 - 30 hours of time behind the wheel of boats ranging from 15 to 25'. The wife and I are looking for something we can enjoy on Lake Michigan and overnight in. Am I crazy to start with a boat this size?

My understanding is the V-Drive has better handling at low speeds (docking), reduced maintenance, but lower speeds and lower resulting MPG (increased operational costs). Bravo III are good with a nod going to speed and MPG.

Are radar/gps a must for navigating the great lakes? I think we would use the generator, but who really knows at my stage of experience. I would think adding nav gear is less costly than adding a generator and has the added benefit of getting the latest technology. I'm pretty handy and a lot of background in electronics and technology so I figure thats even something i could DIY.
 
That's a tough call. I prefer the V-Drives but would not own a boat of this size without a functioning generator. Drive selection is less of an issue given that you will be in Fresh Water. Of the two you mentioned, I would lean towards #1.
That said I'd be inclined to wait for a V-drive unit with a generator. Adding one after the fact is cost prohiitive.

Regarding experience, the V-drive will have superior docking manners and will cost less to operate over the long haul, even with the slightly lower efficiency. That said, you can learn either boat. I would highly recommend hiring a captain for a day to practice maneuvering. It will be the best money you ever spend on the boat.
 
I had a 2000 310DA for 10 years with the bravo3 7.4mpi And I loved that boat. I mainly boat on lake Saint Clair, and all the good places to go are shallow, but not a problem with the I/O.
One word of caution with the bravo3, Change the oil on them annually, and maybe add driver showers! They get hot.
Cruises at 30 mph top speed is over 40 mph.
 
Hi everyone, I have a 2000 310 Sundancer and am looking for ideas on how to remove the port side section of the windshield to replace the rubber seal. I took out 6 screws and a bracket, but it doesn't budge.
 
Calculating fuel consumption: We are planning on taking a few longs trips this summer and I want to figure out how many GPH I'm using. I found a formula on line GPH = (0.50 x 300hp / 6.1 = 150/6.1 = 24.5 GPH. Does anyone have a better way of doing this?
 
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