Official (1998-2002) 310 Sundancer Thread

Does anyone have a manual and supplement for the 2001 310 Sundancer? The Sea Ray site has them for the 1999 and the 2002, but not for the 2001. In addition to becoming familiar with the workings of my new-to-me 310, I need to check the overall height dimensions for on-the-road bridge clearance so I can have it brought home. I'm guessing that it's the height is the same as the 1999 and 2002, but I want to make sure before contracting with the boat mover.

Thanks
 
98-02 basically the same boat. Interior of 98 was a bit different and helm station but same boat.
 
Their height appears to be close to the limit of over-the-road bridge clearance. That's why I was looking to confirm.
 
Most of the time shipping companies will remove arch. As far as normal transport, the 11’2” beam will make it illegal to transport without a permit I believe.
 
No, width isn't the issue. The boat movers I'm dealing with have a standing permit for wide loads in all the states in the NE. It's been a while since I spoke with them, but I believe he said that he could take anything that measured less than 9'10 from the water line up without removing the arch. If the 2001 is the same as the drawings show for the 1999 and 2002 I'd be just low enough.
 
Very good! Hope it all works out and congrats. Great boat!!
 
Grec said:
No, width isn't the issue. The boat movers I'm dealing with have a standing permit for wide loads in all the states in the NE. It's been a while since I spoke with them, but I believe he said that he could take anything that measured less than 9'10 from the water line up without removing the arch. If the 2001 is the same as the drawings show for the 1999 and 2002 I'd be just low enough.
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The arch is the same as the 2002. which is 11' to the top of the anchor light
 
Thanks, that puts the stripped arch at 9'8", which I think provides enough clearance.
 
Contacted Kevin last week, unfortunately he did not have pattern for camper top/panels for 310 Sundancer so I would need to take boat to Long Island which is too far from where I’m at (approx. 3.5 to 4 hour boat ride). Just found out there is a local canvas shop just across the River from my Marina. Will get estimate when they open next month.
 
Home Bouy said:
Contacted Kevin last week, unfortunately he did not have pattern for camper top/panels for 310 Sundancer so I would need to take boat to Long Island which is too far from where I’m at (approx. 3.5 to 4 hour boat ride). Just found out there is a local canvas shop just across the River from my Marina. Will get estimate when they open next month.
Click to expand...

Just as a point of reference. I commissioned a complete full camper enclosure the year before last, including privacy covers from a custom canvas shop. Total came in at around 8k.
 
So, if all goes according to plan we should be taking ownership of our 2001 310 SD. The boat has Mercruiser 357 horizons that were installed in 2019, but I'm not familiar with the updated exhaust system configuration that is supposed to resolve the water ingestion problem.

Can anyone tell from these photos if it has that system? If not, I think that will be the first upgrade to consider.
Engines 1.jpg


Thanks for any info.
 

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It does have the water lift exhaust. Does not completely eliminate problem. You really have to make sure you let off throttles easy while coming off plane. Especially if boat is loaded up.
 
Thanks bayrat. I always thought it was a good idea to drop off a plane slowly anyway, but can you tell me what part of the exhaust in the picture is the water lift?

Thanks
 
Where the exhaust goes down in between motor and genset. Looks kind of like a 5 gallon jug.
 
I'm going up to prep the boat over the weekend so we can have it transported back home and splashed next week. I'd like to bring the anodes with me rather than trying to find them up in the area where the boat is on the weekend. Can someone tell me the diameter of the prop shafts on the 310 with 350 Mercs in it?

Thanks
 
To be honest, mine never had them. I spoke to Searay and they don’t recommend anodes for shafts. They said that corrosion bonding system will be enough. If you look, there should be green wires connected to the studs coming through transom at transom anode. If the collars aren’t tight enough, it can destroy props or lay up on bearings.
 
Thanks bayrat. I had no idea. I've had I/O's on all my boats up until now. The last inboards I had any involvement with were on my dad's 36 Pacemaker and we always had anodes on the prop shafts. But I won't even think about how long ago that was.
 
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