Official (1982-1988) 270DA Thread

Hey KC,
With the racing, I also miss it, and I usually was top 3 so it would take care of expenses. The real expense for me was props, Jeff Titus built all of mine, it was nice having the Chief Inspector for APBA as my prop and set-up go to guy:grin:

My boat also felt real good around 30 mph. It ran up to 4800 rpms really fast so I'm sure I'm under propped unless I want to pull skiers
 
KC,

I have a question for you. Are your throttle controls quite stiff mine sure seem to be. I have to really push pull harder. Its manageable but seems not correct? They were always that way and when I first bought the boat one side broke. A mechanic fixed them and we discussed a replacement. But with curvatures and such he correctly explained how it can become a dash rebuilt which I do not want to get into. If I remember correctly he indicated the only way to change that stiffness would be all new shifter cables. I now have a starboard shifter cable issue in my outdrive anyway. Do you have any thoughts as I see you have same Quicksilver unit

Thanks Mike
 
KC,

I have a question for you. Are your throttle controls quite stiff mine sure seem to be. I have to really push pull harder. Its manageable but seems not correct? They were always that way and when I first bought the boat one side broke. A mechanic fixed them and we discussed a replacement. But with curvatures and such he correctly explained how it can become a dash rebuilt which I do not want to get into. If I remember correctly he indicated the only way to change that stiffness would be all new shifter cables. I now have a starboard shifter cable issue in my outdrive anyway. Do you have any thoughts as I see you have same Quicksilver unit

Thanks Mike

Mike,

Fortunately my shifting is smooth. There are a few things you could probably try/check before replacing:
1/ Disconnect them from the engine end and see if it changes.
2/ Check pressure plate. Take off the crome cover and the black plastic cover under it you will see a set of screws that apply pressure to a plate. Try to loosen them and see if it changes. While there check that everything is free and lubricated.
3/ Slide the cables out, lubricate and re-install, provided they are not frayed or the sleeve damaged they should slide back in. Be ready to replace if you try this as getting them back is a bit of a gamble.

If needed replacement should not be that tough. I have had the few panels under my dash and along the starboard side out and you can clearly see and access the cables the whole way.

Do you have the manual for the shift/throttle assembly?

Below is a copy of a previous thread I started extending the life of my shift cables. Not everyone agreed with lubricating over replacing but it worked great for me and still is. This idea may work for lubricating the throttle cable too?
:huh:

I hope this helps - Keith

New life in the shift cables

I had done this a few years ago and thought some may be able to put this to use on the older craft and save a few bucks.
After putting the new drives on shifting was becoming an issue. To extend the life of the shift cables I did a bit of maintenance which can be done much easier than just replacing them. This also let me inspect them for wear in case they really did need replacing, which they did not. Shifting has never been smoother.​
This is done on a pair of Mercruiser 185's (V6's) with Alpha drives and should be similiar to most cable set-ups. (Note the outdrives are already removed) The pictures will help in knowing what small parts are coming out.

cable1lg.jpg

Step 1 was to remove the shift cable attachment on the engine end.


cable2lg.jpg

Tape the barrel nut to keep your shift setting saved.


cable3lg.jpg

Remove the set screws that clamp to the shift cable.


cable4lg.jpg

This is what the end cable clamp assembly looks like when removed.




cable5lg.jpg

Cable end removed




cable6lg.jpg

Here is the outdrive end of the shift cable.


cable7lg.jpg

Pull the shift cable out through the sleeve. Inspect for any broken strands. If there are any the cable assembly will need to be replaced.
If good; clean and apply a coat of marine grease.



cable8lg.jpg


Lubricate the cable sleeve.
This is an attachment I rigged up with a silicone sealant tip and hose clamp.
I clamped this to the engine end of the sleeve.​
Then I used my outdrive lubricant and pump to force lubricant through the sleeve.



cable9lg.jpg

I had someone watch the outdrive end to let me know when it started coming through.



cable10lg.jpg

The cleaned and greased shift cable was then fed back through the sleeve.
Last step was to put everything else back together.
You may also need to fine tune the shift linkage with everything moving smoother - I did.

Less expensive and much easier then replacing the cable assembly - 2 years since it was done and still shifting like new.e this helps​

New life in the shift cables

I had done this a few years ago and thought some may be able to put this to use on the older craft and save a few bucks.
After putting the new drives on shifting was becoming an issue. To extend the life of the shift cables I did a bit of maintenance which can be done much easier than just replacing them. This also let me inspect them for wear in case they really did need replacing, which they did not. Shifting has never been smoother.​
This is done on a pair of Mercruiser 185's (V6's) with Alpha drives and should be similiar to most cable set-ups. (Note the outdrives are already removed) The pictures will help in knowing what small parts are coming out.

cable1lg.jpg

Step 1 was to remove the shift cable attachment on the engine end.


cable2lg.jpg

Tape the barrel nut to keep your shift setting saved.


cable3lg.jpg

Remove the set screws that clamp to the shift cable.


cable4lg.jpg

This is what the end cable clamp assembly looks like when removed.




cable5lg.jpg

Cable end removed




cable6lg.jpg

Here is the outdrive end of the shift cable.


cable7lg.jpg

Pull the shift cable out through the sleeve. Inspect for any broken strands. If there are any the cable assembly will need to be replaced.
If good; clean and apply a coat of marine grease.



cable8lg.jpg


Lubricate the cable sleeve.
This is an attachment I rigged up with a silicone sealant tip and hose clamp.
I clamped this to the engine end of the sleeve.​
Then I used my outdrive lubricant and pump to force lubricant through the sleeve.



cable9lg.jpg

I had someone watch the outdrive end to let me know when it started coming through.



cable10lg.jpg

The cleaned and greased shift cable was then fed back through the sleeve.
Last step was to put everything else back together.
You may also need to fine tune the shift linkage with everything moving smoother - I did.

Less expensive and much easier then replacing the cable assembly - 2 years since it was done and still shifting like new.​

 
KC,

Maybe silly question but couldn't the problem also be somewhere between the helm controls and the shifting plate. In the case of my current problem we have isolated it to the outdrive? Other question is if we get into replacing cables can we reuse the casing or does that get replaced also. I as because with my two twin v8's access becomes a series problem?

Thanks,
Mike
 
Maybe silly question but couldn't the problem also be somewhere between the helm controls and the shifting plate.

Yes between the helm controls and shift plate - I was just sharing the lube idea with the "yooper" rigged fitting I used and not necessarily the cables I lubricated in the post.

Other question is if we get into replacing cables can we reuse the casing or does that get replaced also. I as because with my two twin v8's access becomes a series problem?

If replacing I would do entire cable assemblies. Even with v8's I would not think access should not be too bad. Everything runs together along the starboard side all the way to the transom, dropping down into the forward part of the engine compartment. Once loose of all the tie wraps and support clamps you could probably use the old cables to pull the new ones through. In fact if I recall correctly, the throttle cables on ours just lay there with no tie wraps or support clamps anywhere. :huh:
 
:smt017Does anyone have a diagram of the helm shift controlers? Mine is a quicksilver dual control. I was wondering if there was any adjustments that can be made to help with hard shifting.:huh:
 
by the way guys if you haven't done it yet and you've ever wondered "where the heck is this water around the toilet coming from?" here is what I beleive to be the defect in the window assembly that lets water in and run along the inside screen track and down behind the toilet. If you slide the screen all the way forward you'll see a gap between the two tinted pieces of plexi. Its' just below the point of the screen here in the picture.
DSC05359.jpg

I just built it up with silcone. haven't had any water in the head since....took forever to find, I figured for sure it was coming in around the toilet itself.
DSC05358.jpg
 
:smt017Does anyone have a diagram of the helm shift controlers? Mine is a quicksilver dual control. I was wondering if there was any adjustments that can be made to help with hard shifting.:huh:

I have the original install papers for it in the boat - I will get them tomorrow evening and post any related info for you.

Sorry something came up - I'll get them ASAP.
 
Last edited:
by the way guys if you haven't done it yet and you've ever wondered "where the heck is this water around the toilet coming from?" here is what I beleive to be the defect in the window assembly that lets water in and run along the inside screen track and down behind the toilet. If you slide the screen all the way forward you'll see a gap between the two tinted pieces of plexi. Its' just below the point of the screen here in the picture.

I just built it up with silcone. haven't had any water in the head since....took forever to find, I figured for sure it was coming in around the toilet itself.

Thanks! :thumbsup:
I had taken a look at ours after you mentioned it and saw I had sealed that area up when I disassembled and rebuilt the windows. The leak had stopped but I thought it was from a cracked fitting on the toilet but was probably the window like you said.
 
Hi guys, I'm having A/C installed in my boat next week and was wondering if anyone has any pics of factory unit with vents and return air. Also the unit itself where and how it's mounted. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Greg N.
 
:smt017Does anyone have a diagram of the helm shift controlers? Mine is a quicksilver dual control. I was wondering if there was any adjustments that can be made to help with hard shifting.:huh:

No good pictures in the Installation manual. The only items listed regarding hard shifting are: Be sure the cables follow a smooth path from the control and secure them straight-away and at least 3 feet from controls. Have at least 12 inches running straight out of the control. Keep the cables running parallel and not crossing. Does not really help much - :huh:
 
Hi guys, I'm having A/C installed in my boat next week and was wondering if anyone has any pics of factory unit with vents and return air. Also the unit itself where and how it's mounted. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Greg N.

I'll see if I can't get some photo's this weekend, just had a new 9000 BTU unit installed since my original unit finaly pooped out (just before hitting the hotest day of the year of course)
 
I'll see if I can't get some photo's this weekend, just had a new 9000 BTU unit installed since my original unit finaly pooped out (just before hitting the hotest day of the year of course)

No air in ours but I was looking into it with the short time in Florida. Hardly ever needed on Lake Superior but the heat/air combo might be considered. Can't wait - I'm looking forward to seeing the pictures too.
 
Hey Guys, could someone please tell me where the factory installed generator is and the model. I'm kind of waffling a bit about installing a genny or going with more batteries. It would be nice to have the convenience of a genny and A/C, but quietness at anchor with batteries would also be nice.

Thanks

Mike
 
Hey Guys, could someone please tell me where the factory installed generator is and the model. I'm kind of waffling a bit about installing a genny or going with more batteries. It would be nice to have the convenience of a genny and A/C, but quietness at anchor with batteries would also be nice.

Thanks

Mike

Usually the generators and A/C were closed in and installed in the storage area on the port side of the mid berth. I don't have either so :huh:
 
well here you go guys here is the AC unit pictures I promised. sorry they're a little small.
raw water pump and seacock
ac6.jpg

ac unit and panel under port v-birth. I'm not a fan of where the panel is, would have run it to the saloon but the installer ignored my request don't even get me started on the duct tape:smt013
ac5.jpg

ac4.jpg

ac3.jpg

now I'm not sure if it's factory or not, but the unit actually sits up on 2x4's just to raise it up a bit to allow a drain pipe to be run out the side of the hull rather then down into the bilge.
ac3.jpg

ac2.jpg

anyways hope the pictures help out.
 
Thanks for the pictures. I like the idea of the through hull drain.
The port side v-berth area on ours has a set of drawers located where your compressor is.
I agree with the panel location, I'd be worried about kicking stuff into while sleeping and the settings changing.
Probably OK though - thanks again!
 
I love this thread with info and owner of the 80's 270 Sea Rays. I have learned so much here although it scares me there could be so much left to do after this years work!
 
I love this thread with info and owner of the 80's 270 Sea Rays. I have learned so much here although it scares me there could be so much left to do after this years work!

The way I look at it, always having something to do (upgrade, customizing or repairs) is what truly makes it "your" boat. :smt001
Enjoy it! :thumbsup:
 
Sharing my latest addition:

Having 18 year old electronics was driving me crazy for the last few years. I finally was able to scrape up enough $$'s to upgrade and get with the times. Last weekend I pulled the boat out and installing the new GPS, Sounder and Sonar - hanging onto the old radar for now. Below are pictures of the final installation. A piece of starboard was attached to the transom so adjustments could be made to the transducers without affecting the "sealed" holes in the transom. The control module for the structure scan sonar was mounted in the closet as you enter the cabin. The ethernet cable was then run under the headliner along the top of the door opening over to the dash area. This had it located far enough from the compass, radar and VHF antenna. I do need to re-calibrate my compass though as it did move a few degrees with the display location.

transducer1.jpg


transducer2.jpg


new_toy.jpg


GOPRO camera photo - fisheyed a bit
 

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