Official (1982-1988) 270DA Thread

Looks like I'll be replacing the seals for my side windows and front hatch this winter... The massive storm Saturday made some leaking evident. Anyone replace the side window seals? Is it best to remove them completely?

I did not replace the seals but have completely removed the frames, windows and seals to re-bed the window panels and re-seal the frame to the deck.
I do not recall if they were held in with screws of through bolts originally but mine are through bolts now.
Definitely a two person job putting the screws in.
Another common area for leaking is the rub rail channel / deck joint. Water finds it's way to the rail fasteners then seeps in through the holes.
I replaced loose fasteners and sealed the top edge of the rail with a bead of 3M 4200UV - no more leaks.

You may have seen this snapshot earlier in the thread:
cabin-Slide2.jpg
 
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I have! I actually searched out your build thread and made a ton of notes from there. I may replace the rubber on my rail and do the same.

Your build s EXTREMELY helpful!
 
I have! I actually searched out your build thread and made a ton of notes from there. I may replace the rubber on my rail and do the same.

Your build s EXTREMELY helpful!

Glad it's being of use, helps save that learning curve. :thumbsup:
 
Re: 86 Da 270 entry way sliding hatch / 3 piece. Material question


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Originally Posted by 86 Sea Ray 270
Ok here is the story just purchased my 1st Boat a 1986 DA 270. The boat is a handy man special, oh boy that means a lot of work, so let's get started. I am trying to repair the sliding hatch cabin access door top 1st would some please post pics of there hatch I'm not sure what if any part/pieces are missing the other 2 panels are on the boat, also what material is the panel made of, Formica covered marine plywood or some other type of laminate



I'll try to remember to take some snapshots for you in the next few days.
The sliding cover is basically one piece on top with two that fold out to cover the angled portion of the opening.
I would just make it out of formica covered marine grade plywood like you said.
Hard to tell what the original is but it seems like some type of laminate.




Following up on a post, pulling it in here to help keep the 270DA questions in one place:

86 Sea Ray 270 Below are some photographs of the top section of the cabin entry door, I hope this helps.
One of the last areas for me to address with our restoration.
Previous owner varnished over what appears to be a very thin laminate on plywood.

IMG_2343.jpg


IMG_2344.jpg


IMG_2345.jpg


IMG_2346.jpg


 
That's exactly what I was looking for. Now I see I have all the panels it's just that the bottom or last panel doesn't have teak trim. Whew that makes this project a little easier. Will post pix when I'm in the shop tearing the doors apart. Thanks again KC and Club Sea Ray members, I can see I have chosen the right boat and come to the right forum.
 
I did not replace the seals but have completely removed the frames, windows and seals to re-bed the window panels and re-seal the frame to the deck.
I do not recall if they were held in with screws of through bolts originally but mine are through bolts now.
Definitely a two person job putting the screws in.
Another common area for leaking is the rub rail channel / deck joint. Water finds it's way to the rail fasteners then seeps in through the holes.
I replaced loose fasteners and sealed the top edge of the rail with a bead of 3M 4200UV - no more leaks.

You may have seen this snapshot earlier in the thread:
cabin-Slide2.jpg

I tracked the window issue down to a missing aluminum piece at the edge of the window. With this new piece in, we got hit with another storm... for the first time, the boat leaked from the exact spot in this picture. Rub rail added to the list! Thank you again! Your restoration pain has been a huge knowledge gain for us!
 
I tracked the window issue down to a missing aluminum piece at the edge of the window. With this new piece in, we got hit with another storm... for the first time, the boat leaked from the exact spot in this picture. Rub rail added to the list! Thank you again! Your restoration pain has been a huge knowledge gain for us!

Glad to be of assistance, the more we can share together here the less of a learning curve we all have to follow.
I know have another leak puddling on the starboard side in the back corner of the mid bunkroom.
Thinking it's the windshield up above because I cannot trace any path of where it's coming from.
Just when i thought I had them all figured out eh!
 
Okay so I have never owned a boat before and I haven't been on a boat since 1997. But I got the itch and am a proud owner of a 1985 270SDA-785. She has twin Merc 230 (Chevy 305CI). No idea on engine hours since it does not have hour meters. Hull seems in good shape, engines run and sound okay. A few minor electrical issues. I spent two weeks going over it from stem to stern and felt comfortable enough to take it out for the weekend on a local lake to shake it out and get a 'Winter To Do' list.

I launched it alone with no issues on Friday (16-Sept-16), and cruised about a bit getting the feel of her. My lady and son came out after work, and we spent the weekend on the boat. Anchored in a couple of coves over night and generally had a great time.

I noticed she pulls to the left even with both power trims all the way down and engines synced (? Out of shape prop ?). I also noticed the port engine over heats if I keep it below ~2000 RPM for any length of time (? Outdrive Pump ?). I noticed we have submerged trees in the lake when I hit one doing 12 knots and busted the sheer pins off the port trim tab...Glad I hit the trim tab and not the out drive! I ended up with quite the 'Winter To Do' list. Most very minor, cosmetic, or just would be nice. I am wondering if I should pull both engines and outdrives and rebuild them. (I can rebuild a Chevy small block in my sleep) but not sure what differences the Merc version might have. I have rebuilt standard trannies so the outdrive don't intimidate me. The Gen Set don't develop 120VAC more like 84VAC, but I'll pull the regulator and have it tested if I can't figure out a way to test it myself. Since I would have the engines, generator out anyways might as well pull the fuel tank and water tank and check/rebuild all of their beds. Forward looking sonar would get the wife off my back about submerged trees (Damn it had to happen first time out, right??) and a chart plotter since I can get lost in my own bathroom with the lights on, I was thinking the Lowrance 7TI Chart Plotter with TrueScan Transducer. A new VHF and antennas since the old one is great for white noise but not much else. things I can't change and wish I could is the head is so darn small... I have to step out to change my mind... and I have hit my head on ceiling protrusions so many times I'm going to end up retarded. But hey like I said we had a good time. Oh and ended up loading the beast on a the trailer alone too (with no issues) so might need a new friggen crew.

I have read this complete thread and love what you guys have done and have bookmarked it for future reference. If there is any advise or gotchas you guys can think of please let me know. Looking forward to a fun winter making her mine :D
 
I have read this complete thread and love what you guys have done and have bookmarked it for future reference. If there is any advise or gotchas you guys can think of please let me know. Looking forward to a fun winter making her mine :D

Welcome Aboard!

Been there with the hitting head issue but it's only been when I'm in a hurry checking on it at the marina and I don't slide the cabin entrance hatch all the way open - every dang time I forget it's not open and crack my head on the way out. :smt101

Harsh Captain - I trip and you want to trade in the crew. :smt043
Sounds like they just need some boat handling and launch training. Boaters safety classes help too, there are many free ones available on-line.
It's good for everyone to have some basics, you never know who else is out there and/or what may happen.

Sounds like you have the right plan for a good refurbishing. The biggest tip I have is, if you have everything pulled out, do a thorough inspection for wet, wood under structure. You've seen all that I came across and there's no better time to do it.

Be sure to share pictures and info in this thread as you move along - best of luck eh!
 
KC

Did you find where the leak to the rear corner of the mid bunk room was coming from? I have a 268 and have noticed a slight leak in the same place.
I am pretty sure it is coming from above but I don't think it is the window. I am beginning to think it may be coming from the rubrail so may follow your idea of replacing any loose screws and sealing the top edge.
 
KC

Did you find where the leak to the rear corner of the mid bunk room was coming from? I have a 268 and have noticed a slight leak in the same place.
I am pretty sure it is coming from above but I don't think it is the window. I am beginning to think it may be coming from the rubrail so may follow your idea of replacing any loose screws and sealing the top edge.

Not yet. We have had a very long heavy downpour and i saw water running down the wall about midway forward and under the storage compartment.
I did notice the sliding door was damp and expanded from moisture, not sure if that was just because of humidity from being closed and the leak.
It could be from the railing too. Now you have me thinking I may need to do another rubrail inspection - it's been quite awhile since I sealed it and I noticed the sealant gone in a few spots.

Good luck with your search/repair.
 
I just changed the oil in my 228HP 305 motors. The oil filters are a pain to get to as I get older. Has anyone installed a kit to relocate the filters?
 
I just changed the oil in my 228HP 305 motors. The oil filters are a pain to get to as I get older. Has anyone installed a kit to relocate the filters?

We installed them on our race boat along with the oil pan drain hose so we pumped oil out of the drain plug when changing.
Easy install. Different styles available, some mount to the exhaust manifold riser and some can be mounted to a bulkhead or other surface.
 
Hole's that hold the windshield in place. That would be the back two screws I believe causing the problem. Get to those screws and seal them up and see what happens. I play hell trying to find that leak. After that not a bit of water for five years.
 
20161013_071026 - Copy.jpg

Okay I can't seem to find what friggen motors I have, I figure they are 1985 Mercruiser MCM230. But when I try and look up parts via the Serial Number several sites tell me no suck Serial Number. I have attached a Pic if what I thought would be the SN I would enter but the sites don't recognize it. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?
 
I just pulled it up on a few sites - try adding a 0 in front. A few I tried automatically added the 0. :huh:
 
I haven't posted in a bit so thought I would update you all on my 85 Sundancer 270 twin 230s. Well OUCH.

I built a engine hoist like KC's and pulled both engines, I did the compression tests and epic fail, so started tearing down the engines to do a complete rebuild. I had them both on engine stands and had flipped the port engine upside down to pull the oil pan and crank, and then i saw it. Block had a hair line crack. I have tried or been involved in many attempts to repair block cracks, none have worked. It is a block replacement. I also decided if I replace one engine, replace them both. So I figured I would rebuild the StrBrd engine and sell it. But guess what, yup it was also cracked and both exhaust manifolds. I looked at new Marine Crate engines but thought they were a bit on the pricey side and went with two Chevy 350 Street Crates. I ordered new marine cams, brass freeze plugs, marine water pumps and 1 set of exhaust manifolds. The old quadra jets were going to cost me $320 each to rebuild, so I ordered 2 Edelbrock Performer Marine Carburetor for $362 each. Pretty much everything will be replaced except the intake manifold.

Outdrives were not much better, water in the oil of both. Tore them down and am replacing every gasket and seal in them and water pumps.

My shop is a mess, crowded with boat parts and I am feeling a bit overwhelmed, but hey I fear nothing mechanical and it will be worth it right? LOL If I can build race cars from the ground up and can research and read I got this. I may not be ready for spring, but when I do get back to the water the propulsion system will be new and top notch. Damn the torpedoes! Full Speed ahead!
 
I haven't posted in a bit so thought I would update you all on my 85 Sundancer 270 twin 230s. Well OUCH.

Surprises like that are no fun but it sounds like you have it under control now. Share some pictures if you can.
On the bright side it's a New Year and can only get better from here eh. :thumbsup:
 
Looks like it's been over a year since anyone posted to this thread. Hopefully some of you guys are still watching. I recently inherited a 1984 270DA. Still winterized and should be in shop in 3-4 weeks to have the basic mechanical systems looked at. It has been sitting for 5 or 6 years and thankfully my dad had it wrapped after it was winterized. It's in the barn now and been unwrapped for physical inspection. Several things I've noticed.
  • Port window looks like it may leak. There's a lot of my dad's handywork glopped on there. No sign of water damage inside.
  • Tea stain inside wardrobe closet wall and floor. Wood is still solid and can't push ice pick through it.
  • Toilet system. I have no idea about this. I do recall my dad having it pumped out before. Not sure if that helps. Just want to know more about how it works. Manuals, etc.
  • Tops, camping enclosure, etc. Looking for a source to see what pieces are needed for a full enclosure, maybe something just for storage. I have a friend who does tents & awnings. No boats, but willing to let me pay for material only if I can show him to pictures/patterns.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Ryan
 

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