NuTeak Observations after a Season of Use

Jackie J V

Member
TECHNICAL Contributor
Feb 5, 2009
827
King City, ON
Boat Info
560DB
2 x Raymarine e125's
Walker Bay Generations 360 Centre Console w. Yahama 60HP
2 Seadoos
Engines
CAT 3406e (C15's) @ 800HP
I had NuTeak installed on the JJV before launch in the Spring and this post is intended to provide my observations after a season of use and abuse. There have been a number of posts showing installations on various boats and through these threads there have been a number of questions that have arisen - some of which I'll attempt to address here.

First off, here are a few pictures on the installed product on my boat:

3NuTeak.jpg



So far, I've had the stuff (NuTeak) installed on my swimplatform, stairs to the bridge and steps dropping down into my cockpit.


4NuTeackSideshot.jpg



One of the choices that I made was to not put the material over the drain inserts on the swimplatform. I wanted to see what it looked like leaving these white and I'm happy that the result fits. I simply added spacers below the inserts to bring them up to the same level as the installed material. Why - because I wanted to leave a couple of white spots to stand on if the stuff gets hot in the summer, which leads me to:

Question #1 - Does this stuff get hot?

Yup - but not inordinately in my opinion.

Any material coloured other than white, will get hotter than white fiberglass. It is what it is. I'm not sure how that might play out in FLA, however it's manageable here. And while some of you may have pictures of the cold white north (which would be appropriate on this cold January Saturday morning), I want to clarify that it does get very hot up here in the summer.

If the platform gets too hot, it quickly cools off with a dousing of water. I would also imagine that it gets no hotter than similarly coloured real Teak.

6NuTeakonswimplatform.jpg



I have had a ton of folks walk up to the boat and to compliment the look and to talk about the installation. I am very happy with the look and think it adds a nice finish.


5NuTeakonstairs.jpg



The grip is phenomenal and better on these stairs to the bridge than the way they were before. There was also an unanticipated benefit in providing a little cushion to the fiberglass. My knees aren't the best (nothing too severe, just creaking with age catching up:smt100). I have found a noticeable difference to impact on the knees with the little bit of give afforded by the PVC.

Also, I mentioned that I think the NuTeak option provides a few more "on-the-fly" customization options to the installer, than the Flexiteek which has to be pre-thought and properly communicated to the factory. Please feel free to correct this if you have a different perspective, I'm not invested in NuTeak. The example I'd use is with the Bullnose finish on the stairs to the bridge. The installer was trying to determine a good finish that wouldn't leave a visible edge to the product that need to be covered in caulk. He came up with and manufactured the bullnose as a solution, which I think was creative and a good looking solution.



I also want to clearly state that I am not in anyway associated with either NuTeak or Flexiteek, other than having chucked our megabucks to have the former installed, which leads me to:

Question #2 - How much does this stuff cost?

I am sure my boating brethern to the south get a better deal than us poor sods in Canada, however in Ontario, the NuTeak product will cost $55/sq.ft. installed. If you want to install it yourself, hav' at 'er, but having seen the installation, I would not - even though I think I'm reasonably handy. The preformed custom mats will run you $45/sq.ft. plus adhesives, while the raw materials (PVC strips) will cost between $25 and $30 sq. ft. I think the Flexiteek was a similar cost.


Question #3 - What the heck is the difference between Flexiteek and NuTeak?

Well that one took a fair bit of digging to get a straight answer. Bottom line is that both materials are essentially the same extruded PVC product and come from the same manufacturer - Flexiteek of the Netherlands. I think there was a settlement of a lawsuit involved, however I ran out of patience before I got the straight answer on that one. Flexiteek comes as a preformed mat straight from the factory, while NuTeak comes to the installer in strips and he or she has to glue the stuff together into the custom fitted mat. As a consequence, Flexiteek should have the higher probability of cleaner seams, while I don't think it would be much of an issue if you're using an experienced installer. On the flipside, the NuTeak will have additional, on the spot, customization that can be completed by the installer (e.g., aforementioned bull nosing that was added to my install).

Here's a picture of samples of both products side-by-each:

1NuTeakvsFlexiteekTop.jpg



The lighter colour stuff on the left is the NuTeak and other is Flexiteek. the I have these products at home and took the photo myself. The feel of both products is essentially the same and both have a very realistic wood grain look to them. On my installation, I actually had a brief argument with a friend of mine, who wouldn't believe that the stuff on my swim platform wasn't wood.

Here's another shot of the bottom of the same two samples:

2NuTeakvsFlexiteekBottom.jpg


The oval is the NuTeak and the rectangle is the Flexiteek. Both materials are about 1/4" thick.


As I mentioned earlier, I had a heck of a time trying to get a straight story on the comparison of these two products. As you might expect, the representatives would have a different version of the story to better represent their particular brand. That is not an accusatory statement - just good salesmanship.

Here's a somewhat confusing response I got straight from the horses mouth - i.e., the factory in the Netherlands:

Flexiteekemail.png



Message starts saying the products are not the same, but then the content fails to point out any difference other than in the marketing. Take my word for it, functionally the products are the same.


Question # 4 - I've got dogs - will they be able to scratch the material?

Yup - but I think it's manageable. I have two dogs (a Lab and a Cocker Spaniel). As a consequence, I decided to not do the floor of the cockpit since that it their living area. I was concerned that they would scratch the heck out of the stuff. Scratch have appeared on the steps from the gunwale down into the cockpit, but they seem to disappear. I think that if they had to move around on the stuff all the time, that the material would get pretty scratched up, but I couldn't say that for sure. I have now given the installer the go ahead to complete the cockpit floor this winter, but will get an outdoor rug to put down when the dogs are there with us.


Question #5 - Can wine stain the product?

Yup - but I think only if you don't get to it quickly. I had a few sloppy red wine drinkers on the boat this summer (you know who you are :grin:) and I didn't have any issues with permanent stains.

Both products represent themselves as stain free, and I took this as a challenge to test. The following is a series of shots of a sample of the NuTeak product which I subject to my little test. I poured a decent sized puddle of red wine on the stuff and left it to sit for two days before doing anything about it.

7StandingWine.jpg


Then I went through a series of steps to take out. First, I just wiped with a paper towel, which clearly left the stain:

8DryWiped.jpg



Then I tried cleaning with just water (again which didn't get the stain out):

8DryWiped.jpg


Then with dish detergent:

10ScrubbedwithDishDetergent.jpg


Better, but stain is still there.

What I was not able to do, was use boat cleaning supplies which may have worked better. But as my test was a consequence of winter boredom last year and my supplies were all on the boat, I could not try that....

So I took sandpaper to the stuff. The manufacturer represents that you can sand out blemishes. I found though, that by the time I had taken out the stain, I had also taken off the grain! :wow:

11Sanded.jpg



All that to say, this was an extreme test and I have not had issues in real use.


Question #6 - How easy is the stuff to maintain and clean?

I'd say, as easy at the fiberglass that was there before it. I simply use the same cleaner that I use on the rest of the boat, scrub with the same shurhold brush and hose it down. I cleans pretty easy. In contrast, I watch my dock neighbour and friend as he scrubs his real teak paltform on hands and knees for hours, to get it looking good for one day before it goes grey again. I like to rub it in - often when I drop the hydraulic swimplatform into the water when he's around I simply look up at him and say "I'm cleaning the teak".



All in all, I'm very happy with the installation - so much so that I'm having more added over the winter to complete the cockpit floor.

Hope this was helpful to someone!
Paul
 
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I may be interested as I'm tired of taking up the carpet so it don't get wet from the rain and our heavy dew. That looks great! I like the vents in the swim platform left white. You just cost me some more money...lol The next owner of my boat thanks you too!
 
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Jackie
Excellent piece. Well done. And the stuff looks great. Thanks for the insight.
 
Great write up and I will agree with your observations on the Nu-Teak product. The one thing I can say is I have been able to sand to remove stains on any other imperfections but it must with the grain and don’t dig hard. When I did the etching for the Sea Ray I used the same chalk as they do to fill it in and after it dried for a couple of days I light sanded to remove any miscues. I don’t think I would like to have wine dry on it though, but spilling something on it is a lot easier to clean that carpet.

I was concerned about it getting hot as well, and found the same experience as you. The only thing is mine was installed late in the season so I really don’t have a lot of time with it to really know. Like you I am very seriously considering doing the entire inside of my cockpit, and even the carpet gets hot in there. Only difference I can’t shower the carpet with water to cool it like you can the Nu-Teak.

005.jpg



002.jpg
 
Nice post

We are considering doing our swim platform

Thanks for taking the time to document what most folks are interested in knowing
 
Nice writeup and pics from both of you. I like the looks of the white drains, but I gotta say that Sea Ray and logo look pretty darn nice. Tough to say which I like better.

Let me ask you both a couple of questions. I have a custom swim deck on the back of my boat. The mounts for my dinghy davit are mounted below the deck but both through. The bolts are SS carriage bolts with a single washer on each and the heads probably stick up about 1/8"-3/16" of an inch above the deck. I'd have to fit the flooring over the top of them and I was wondering if it would be possible to remove some material on the bottom of the decking so it would lay flat over the carriage bolt heads and not show any "lump" where the bolts are.

The questions are, do you think it would be possible to cut/gouge/sand away about 3/16" of the bottom of the decking to allow for the bolt heads, or would that degrade the decking too much? If the interior of the piece of decking was exposed to water, would that allow it to stain or deteriorate?

Also, how flexible is that material after it's put down? If my swim deck flexed, would the material and glue allow it to flex or would flexing eventually make the decking come loose?

Here's a shot of the deck being sanded before installation...

P70910131.jpg
 
This stuff is just over a ¼ inch think so cutting 3/16 off the bottom is almost cutting through… 1/8 of inch you could get away with. What about counter sinking the screws or removing them and going through the Nu-Teak. On my installation we just cut around my dingy platform mounts and the Nu-Teak butted up to the blocks. Actually made it look better. One of Jackie’s pictures shows the bottom, or ripped portion of the Nu-Teak, cutting down a small section of this for a screw head may work

The stuff is flexible and when the installation is done it is actually a bunch of strips glued or heat seamed together. The entire piece is then put down with 3M 4000 adhesive. I can’t image the platform flexing enough to affect installation.
 
For my stairs to the bridge, the installer did cut away a little from the bottom to help with a raised edge, and then just used weights to form the tread to the non-flat stairs (i.e., they slope up on the outer edge to a raised lip which acts to catch the ball of your foot). I don't think you'd be able to take off 3/16ths though without running into problems. I'm sure there must be another solution to deal with the bolts.

Also, I think Bill's got it right, there's no way the platform is going to flex more than the material. If it does, there's a real problem that'll be more than cosmetic.

Paul
 
I agree, I had Nuteak installed in my old boat and plan on getting it installed this spring on my new boat. It's a great product and really enhances the look.
 
Paul,

Great thread. Thanks for taking the time to do the write-up with all the details. The boat looks awesome.

A quick maintenance question, did you ever feel a need to apply some type of sealer to protect the surface?

Bill,

I'm sure that your 320 stands in the crowd.....very cool look.
 
Thanks for your comments guys. I did a fair bit of research trying to figure things out and thought I'd try to share with my fellow Sea Ray'ers with the hope that it helps someone else at some point when they do a search on NuTeak or Flexiteek.

Hi Alex,
I don't think the product lends itself to using a sealer. It's really an extruded PVC product. I think as long as it's kept reasonably clean, it should be fine. It would have been interesting to test Oxyclean on that wine stain. Maybe it would have come right off. It certainly does magic on carpets. Unfortunately, I have too much experience with red wine stains on my boat! :smt021

Paul
 
....Unfortunately, I have too much experience with red wine stains on my boat! :smt021
Paul

Same here. That's exactly why I asked. :grin:
 
Thanks for the info and answers to my questions. I hadn't thought of drilling holes in the decking and running the bolts through the decking. I think that would look better.

One more question...how do they attach the border around the edges, and I'm not referring to the edges of the steps, but the design border they attach to where a flat panel ends?
 
The edges are simply a part of the mat created to fit the space. It is glued to the edges of the NuTeak strips or would be an integral part of a Flexiteek solution. The whole mat (including the edging) would be glued down to the decking.

Paul

P.S. Red wine should be banned on boats. I only drink white during the summer for that reason...
 
Simple Green is what the manufacture recommends for cleaning Nuteak. I've been using it in other applicants for many years and it works great.
 
Thanks for the info and answers to my questions. I hadn't thought of drilling holes in the decking and running the bolts through the decking. I think that would look better.

One more question...how do they attach the border around the edges, and I'm not referring to the edges of the steps, but the design border they attach to where a flat panel ends?

It is done the same way the entire piece is put together; they use glue to put all the pieces together including the border. I have heard that some of the vendor / installers use a heat seal method of binding the pieces together, mine was not done that way, all are glued.
 
Simple Green is what the manufacture recommends for cleaning Nuteak. I've been using it in other applicants for many years and it works great.

I have heard you can power wash it as well, but I don’t think I would hit this stuff with a lot of pressure. I have a small electric power washer and I am going to use it with a light pressure to wash it down after a pull the shrink wrap off in a couple of months.
 

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