Now that Thoroflush is gone???

fwebster said:
I wouldn't apply enough heat to braze the fitting in place. The caps are thin cast bronze and that much heat may warp the cap and affect its ability to seal on the strainer.

If you don't think you can get the right depth threads and force the tapered fitting in tight enough, then I would use J&B weld or Loctite on the threads. I've used both methods and have never had one leak.

Frank do you have photos of your system?
This because I don't understand the technical English so well!

Peter
 
Another way could be to use someting that works like a through hull and just machine a hole into the cap. The replacements I got are pretty beefy ...
 
I agree that brazing is not the way to go.
It would take too much heat and would probably distort the cap.

After drilling and tapping the the hole, I applied marine tex to the male threads of the brass nipple, instead of any kind of pipe dope, and carefully threaded it into the cap, flush with the underside.
Then put a fair amount of marine tex around the nipple, and set them on wax paper until they cured.
(Note: I drilled and tapped dry, as I did not want any lubricant to interfere with the adhesion of the epoxy.)
And yes, 1/2 turn in, 1/4 turn out when tapping...
Perfect threads every time...
Once it set up, it is permanent and leakproof. :thumbsup:
 
Alex,
Something like a thru-hull will not work. With the strainer basket in place, the adapter hardware must be flush with the underside of the strainer lid or it will interfere with the strainer bail or handle...it must be flush.

Peter,
Sorry, I've done about 20 strainer caps for friends, but never took the time to photograph them. Just Google up "Thoroflush" and you will see photos.......I just copied their design.

Steve,
You graduated from Frank's school of marine blacksmithing!
 
Couldn't,t you just remove the strainer basket while winterizing with anti-freeze? Once done, replace the basket and the original strainer cap. I realize this means you have to have two "caps" to do the job but it seems that it eliminates the problem of cap thickness as the pipe could be back plated or through bolted. Fortunately, I got a few Thoroflushes before they went belly up.
 
Sure you could, if winterizing were the only purpose for the adapter, but most people I build them for use them to inject acid or freshwater into running A/C systems. I try to be careful about the stuff I post and I'd hate to see someone who is following this discussion but not participating ruin a $60 strainer basket by clamping a protruding fitting down on it.

And while I'm close to a disclaimer, when I make flush caps, I tell people to replace their strainer caps and send me the old one before I make a cap for them. That way I know they have a spare. Cutting and threading the cap makes for a weak point where the nipple is threaded into the cap. It is not inconceivable that a flush fitting can be broken off the cap leaving you with a 7/16" hole in the boat and water pouring in. If you use a flush adapter, you should keep a spare plain cap on the boat where it is accessible.,
 
Good point.....I only use mine for winterization so I did not consider the other factors. I do not keep them on full time but if flushing was a common and frequent maintenance item, I see where you would not want to be constantly removing and reinstalling the caps and strainer baskets.
 
Too bad that Perko does not sell the top of their flushing strainer separately ... it's a perfect unit and better than the old Thoroflush. But in order to get those, I would have to buy four new strainers :smt009
 
I made my own also since I figured I could make the 2 for less than the price of 1 of the other brand. They work great but I would not want to keep them on full time either.

I also have found that I can do my generator and A/C quicker by just removing the hose from the seacock and sticking it directly into a 1 gallon jug of pink stuff and starting them up. 1 gal does each just fine and the hose is a perfect snug fit.
 
I'm only planning to do two caps for. One for the engines and one for the genset and AC unit. My engine strainers are positioned such that it's way too easy to step on them, so I'd be leery of adding something that stuck out of the top. But for just winterizing it'll be fine.
 

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