non-skid gel coat repair/ pattern duplication

Carpediem44DB

Well-Known Member
Aug 18, 2015
3,230
Sanfransico Bay area
Boat Info
2000 Carver 506
2006 44 DB Sedan Bridge
Engines
Volvo TAMD 74 P
IMG_3502.jpg

When I removed my davit support structure I found that it was adhered pretty well. I don't think it was put on with 5000 but certainly 4000. It pulled up some small areas of gel coat exposing the glass mat which I now need to repair. Has anyone here ever had success in pulling a mold of the diamond pattern non skid to use to press in the pattern for a repair? I have done my share of gel coat work over the years on cars, planes, boats and even for a while as a professional tub repairman but I never had to tackle duplicating a pattern like this. I am thinking I could just use good mold release on a good part of the deck, paint on some gel coat and build up a few layers of glass over that to make a mold, then put lots of release on the mold, paint on a thick layer of gelcoat over the affected area and lay the mold in place and weight the hell out of it. I will first figure out a way to accurately index it so the pattern aligns.
It's worth a try any way, if it looks like crap, Ill have a great excuse to install Plastidek.
Carpe Diem
 
View attachment 112013
When I removed my davit support structure I found that it was adhered pretty well. I don't think it was put on with 5000 but certainly 4000. It pulled up some small areas of gel coat exposing the glass mat which I now need to repair. Has anyone here ever had success in pulling a mold of the diamond pattern non skid to use to press in the pattern…
Carpe Diem

See this YouTube episode for the process and magnitude of work. These guys are “qualified” glass guys and yet it still seems like PlasDeck/plasteak may be easier.

 
Check out boatworkstoday.com. he's got a good video on how to mold it and repair it.

Yup...a lot of work.
 
Since I have such small areas to repair, I can just pull a 10x10 inch mold. It will be a fun project but if it looks bad I can overlay a section from giboflexmold. It looks like they sell just an overlay? Or do they sell a repair mold? Ill cross that bridge if get there. Thanks for the links guys, I appreciate the help.
Carpe Diem
 
Since I have such small areas to repair, I can just pull a 10x10 inch mold. It will be a fun project but if it looks bad I can overlay a section from giboflexmold. It looks like they sell just an overlay? Or do they sell a repair mold? Ill cross that bridge if get there. Thanks for the links guys, I appreciate the help.
Carpe Diem

I bought a 12" wide roll and just cut off a section to use as an overlay - I was covering up holes from snaps I removed. Very easy to use.
 
Upon further deliberation I think I’ll buy a sheet large enough to cover all of old holes from the previous fitments. That way I just need to fill the holes and not sweat the cosmetics of each filled hole and other marks. Thanks again for the link.
It’s not like I really needed another complex layer on this project.
Carpe Diem
 
+1 Boatworks today has a fairly good tutorial on it.

Basically spray the entire area to be fixed surrounding the repair area (including the repair spot) with PVA mold release. Dig out what you want to repair and fill with gelcoat. Then apply the negative mold. All the overflow of gelcoat pushed out will peel off as it is in the PVA.

-Kevin
 
Yikes! the replacement non-skid option is crazy spendy! I need enough material to cover a 4X6 area to hide all the POs installation scars and they want $900 plus freight. I opted for the repair mold instead and will just match the gel coat as well as I can and call it good. A 1X1 square foot mold will run me $65 and since I have a couple of other repairs to make i will be mixing gel coat anyway.
The other day I noticed some Bozo must have backed his platform into the side of my platform extension to Starboard and punched two 3 inch holes in it! No note or word left with the harbor master. What is wrong with people? I spent Sunday morning grinding and patching the holes. I am just gad they did not hit the hull:mad:
Carpe Diem
 
+1 Boatworks today has a fairly good tutorial on it.

Basically spray the entire area to be fixed surrounding the repair area (including the repair spot) with PVA mold release. Dig out what you want to repair and fill with gelcoat. Then apply the negative mold. All the overflow of gelcoat pushed out will peel off as it is in the PVA.

-Kevin
Received the mold and gel coat today so I will do the repair tomorrow. The big worry was if I was going to be able to get all of the 4000 that was used to seal the plates down to the non-skid deck. I ended up using my buffer with a wire wheel on it and it just erased away the sealant. I just alternated the direction to match the angle of the diamond pattern and it came right up. I will go over the area with the Re-move sealant solvent to do a final cleaning then proceed with repairing the non skid that peeled up with the plates.
Carpe Diem
 
See this YouTube episode for the process and magnitude of work. These guys are “qualified” glass guys and yet it still seems like PlasDeck/plasteak may be easier.






This guy was on Below Deck Sailing last season. He was the engineer. Pretty cool dude, IMO.
 

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