No Power to Shower Sump

[skalita]

Shower sump is OOC. Pump and float switch both test OK. Tested wiring at the shower sump with a voltmeter but no power. Sump circuit breaker on main battery panel is IN. I did a cursory check of the wiring to the DC bus bars in the engine compartment and all look OK.
Any troubleshooting help is appreciated.
Smitty

 

[IanBat]

Shower sump is OOC. Pump and float switch both test OK. Tested wiring at the shower sump with a voltmeter but no power. Sump circuit breaker on main battery panel is IN. I did a cursory check of the wiring to the DC bus bars in the engine compartment and all look OK.
Any troubleshooting help is appreciated.
Smitty

I seem to recall an issue on my 94 330, a few months back. The sereo in the saloon stopped working and so did the shower sump. The power supply to both was off the same circuit breaker in the bilge near the battery master switches.

In mine that is under the floor panel nearest the door down to the saloon.

The circuit breaker panel has around 6 or 8 breakers in it. They are the Red push in Klixon breakers. The unit for the two circuits was a 10 amp breaker. It was actually faulty, I couldn't reset it, and replaced it.

Forgot to add, that circuit breaker supply is direct from the battery, is not controlled by a master switch. The power feed to the stereo


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[fwebster]

If you have already determined that you have power to the pump, then you have no issue with the breakers.

Sea Ray uses common butt splice connectors to connect the 12V+ and ground to the pump motor and to the float switch. Yours is a frequent problem because the butt splices get wet and the connection corrodes to the point that the conductivity is lost. There are several feet of too much wire in the switch and pump leads so cut the butt splice connection out, one at a time so you don't get the wiring points confused, then strip back the insulation until you get to shiney wire.......green wire indicated corrosion has extended its reach up the wire. Failing to remove the green wire just means that you'll have do-over at some point in the near future. While you are at it, I would replace all the old butt splices with new silicone filled connectors and tie the bundle of wires as high in the bilge as you can when you are done.

It is an easy 15 minute fix..........