Newbie just bought a boat! Help!

NewbieNick

New Member
Aug 20, 2017
13
Boat Info
1982 Sea Ray Sedan Bridge
Engines
5.7 the rest is in known
Hey everyone! I'm a newbie here and with the site name I just had to join! I've been in love with the older Sea Ray models for awhile. I've looked at 4 over the past year and havnt really found one that tickled my fancy. Well I finally found one in great shape with no rot (that I can find) and fiberglass and paint in fair to good condition! So I bought it! And I'm very happy! So to the question at hand. I know it's a '82 sedan bridge with a 5.7 And that's it. I've looked at models online and it seems to me it's a Srv255?? If I post the hull ID can anyone help me decodle it? As far as the official model and outdrive ect?? I'm a mechanic by trade and would like to know about my equipment! Thanks for reading!
 

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Welcome to the group! I can't decode your HIN but some of the people on here will be able to. Congrats on the new boat!
 
The HIN# only allows us to determine when the boat was made, for what model year, and what factory made it. The model number or type isn't in the HIN or production numbers.
 
The HIN# only allows us to determine when the boat was made, for what model year, and what factory made it. The model number or type isn't in the HIN or production numbers.
Oh ok. Damn haha. How could I find out the rest? As far as the outdrive and model?
 
You've likely figured it out by just looking at old brochures on Sea Ray's website. I do have access to a program that might work, though. It works for any Sea Ray that was originally bought from us - I've never tried it on one purchased somewhere else. But I'll try it if you post the HIN#.
 
It looks like a 245 Sedan to me. Measure the beam at the transom. 8 feet is a 245, 10 feet is a 255. Both were great boats in my opinion. Exceptional layouts, pretty to look at, and good handling.
 
You've likely figured it out by just looking at old brochures on Sea Ray's website. I do have access to a program that might work, though. It works for any Sea Ray that was originally bought from us - I've never tried it on one purchased somewhere else. But I'll try it if you post the HIN#.
Awsome! Thank you, I will post the hin in a few I'm on my way to the boat now.
 
It looks like a 245 Sedan to me. Measure the beam at the transom. 8 feet is a 245, 10 feet is a 255. Both were great boats in my opinion. Exceptional layouts, pretty to look at, and good handling.
Ok that helps! I know the trailer is only 9 feet wide tire to tire. So it must be a 245 then. But I'll measure anyway!
 
So it is a srv245 :) but now my questions are about the outdrive? I believe it's an omc judging by the spare parts on the boat. If that's correct, are they any good? As far as reliability? And kind of upgrades I should look into? I know it won't be a fast boat but I do plan on taking it out to the islands around my area so open ocean. I'm trying to upload images of the out drive but it says files are too large
 

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Parts are just getting harder and harder to get for OMC since they've been out of production for quite a while. But the internet is a good source.

Can you verify the HIN - hard to read. It will start with "SER" and end with "82".
 
1a3280882- 245sd8720 I believe the last set is correct
 
Yes, definitely a 245, indicated by the numbers on the hull and that second set of numbers you quoted.

Nick, I tried that number - it didn't work for me. So I wasn't sure if it was because the boat didn't originally come from me, or possibly the age and older boats were never loaded in the Sea Ray/dealer database. I then did a quick search for HIN numbers on this forum and found one from '88. That didn't show up, either. I then found one from '00 and that one DID show up - even though it was not bought from us. So it appears it's an age thing! :rolleyes:
 
Nick,

I'm going to weigh in here. In looking at the pictures of the stern of your boat and seeing how far up the outdrive is I'm fairly certain it is an OMC Stringer mounted unit. I believe that was the only outdrive that lifted that far up and it was, in fact, one of their marketing points. In other words, the engine and outdrive are mated as one unit and the outdrive is not attached to the transom of the boat. To confirm this, go to the outdrive and look/feel around the outdrive and see if there is a rubber boot all around the drive that connects the outdrive to the transom. If that is the case it would be understandable to see so many spare outdrive parts on board. They are harder to find than an honest politician. And you are going to need those parts because, unfortunately, it is not a very good outdrive. In fact it's reputation is so bad that most experienced boaters would not even consider buying a boat with this drive.

Now that I've totally destroyed your Monday what are your options? The easiest and cheapest is to begin researching the drive and find out all you can about it, the weak spots, what causes the most problems, and start looking for a parts source and build your inventory. As a mechanic you should have no trouble working on it. They weren't particularly complicated....just not very reliable. On the other end of the cost spectrum, you could replace the drive. It's been done but you would have to remove the old engine and drive, make and glass in a plug to fill the hole and then install a Merc or Volvo unit. I know you could find the Gimbal Housing and Transom Plate on eBay or craigslist....I've done it, and then if it were me, I'd install an SEI outdrive. Check YouTube and other online sources.

Whichever way you go here, do your research and get as much info as possible.

Good luck....
Shawn
 
Yes, definitely a 245, indicated by the numbers on the hull and that second set of numbers you quoted.

Nick, I tried that number - it didn't work for me. So I wasn't sure if it was because the boat didn't originally come from me, or possibly the age and older boats were never loaded in the Sea Ray/dealer database. I then did a quick search for HIN numbers on this forum and found one from '88. That didn't show up, either. I then found one from '00 and that one DID show up - even though it was not bought from us. So it appears it's an age thing! :rolleyes:
Ok copy that thank you for trying!
 
Nick,

I'm going to weigh in here. In looking at the pictures of the stern of your boat and seeing how far up the outdrive is I'm fairly certain it is an OMC Stringer mounted unit. I believe that was the only outdrive that lifted that far up and it was, in fact, one of their marketing points. In other words, the engine and outdrive are mated as one unit and the outdrive is not attached to the transom of the boat. To confirm this, go to the outdrive and look/feel around the outdrive and see if there is a rubber boot all around the drive that connects the outdrive to the transom. If that is the case it would be understandable to see so many spare outdrive parts on board. They are harder to find than an honest politician. And you are going to need those parts because, unfortunately, it is not a very good outdrive. In fact it's reputation is so bad that most experienced boaters would not even consider buying a boat with this drive.

Now that I've totally destroyed your Monday what are your options? The easiest and cheapest is to begin researching the drive and find out all you can about it, the weak spots, what causes the most problems, and start looking for a parts source and build your inventory. As a mechanic you should have no trouble working on it. They weren't particularly complicated....just not very reliable. On the other end of the cost spectrum, you could replace the drive. It's been done but you would have to remove the old engine and drive, make and glass in a plug to fill the hole and then install a Merc or Volvo unit. I know you could find the Gimbal Housing and Transom Plate on eBay or craigslist....I've done it, and then if it were me, I'd install an SEI outdrive. Check YouTube and other online sources.

Whichever way you go here, do your research and get as much info as possible.

Good luck....
Shawn
I appreciate it!! Whe I was under the stern yesterday I took pics but this site says they are too large. So I'll try to describe it. Just To triple check. So there is a large gear on the port side of the outdrive. yes there is a large rubber boot surrounding the outdrive. It's powered through basically two rounded meshing style pinion gears. So I believe you would be correct. In all honestly reliabilty is key to me. In all honesty I'll probably take her out a few times and start buying the parts I need to do a full repower. I know it's underpowered already with a little 5.7. Maybe a big chevy block or duramax with merc. I'm still pretty new but what is an sei? Newer generation of merc?
 
For posting your pictures....if you are just using the photo viewer that came with Windows, open the picture to view it full screen, at the top left in the header there will be photo editing tools. I click on the word, "Picture" and that drops down several selections. One says, "Compress Picture," I click on that and select the button that says "Compress for Document." Then save under a different name. Those pics are now a size the website will accept. Just click on "Upload a File" on the bottom right of the post page.

So here is where you get into really spending money on a 35 year-old boat. If you want to change the drive to a Mercruiser and increase horsepower you really should to go into a Merc Bravo I drive. The Merc Alpha I drives were introduced in 1984 and there could be close to a million of them out there. Good drive, simple, dependable, easy to get parts and fairly easy for the DYI guy to work on. There are countless videos on YouTube showing every task you would ever need to do. The downside of an Alpha drive is they are only reliable up to about 300 HP. Beyond 300 HP lifespan is a crap shoot.

So if you are going to increase power of your 5.7 beyond 300 HP (and why would you only add 40 HP from 260 to 300) you really should change to a Bravo drive. The Bravo is built for higher HP and torque and has a better transmission/shifting mechanism. So if you need to glass in a plug in the transom and you want to then install a Merc drive AND build the GM small block, or go big block, you might as well go Bravo. I just looked on eBay....going all new components for a Bravo will cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $7,000-$10,000 just for the outdrive. You can find used there as well for less than half of that amount.

If you wanted to stay with the Alpha Drive and maybe just refresh the current motor and maybe install a mild cam for a little more grunt, you could do that for a bit less. I bought a Gimbal Housing on craigslist for my boat that included the Housing, new gimbal bearing, trim rams, transom plate, power steering ram, gimbal ring and bell housing for $200. That was a steal. If you could find all of that for a grand you would be doing good. With that, you still need the outdrive. A new Merc drive is about $2400 shipped. BUT, there is an alternative in a company named Sterndrive Engineering, Inc....SEI http://www.sterndrive.cc/ You can buy a complete drive for $1295.

When the SEI drives first came out 8 or 9 years ago there was some question about reliability and longevity. I own a 1985 23' Cobalt. The previous owner had a 383 Stroker motor built for this boat and HP is really unknown but based on the components in the motor we are guessing somewhere around 350. I also have the SEI106 outdrive on the boat and it's been there for a bit more than 4 years. I have been restoring this boat for a couple of years and documenting the journey on this forum as well as another. I mentioned one day about my concern with the HP and the outdrive and an SEI rep commented with a post stating they believe their SEI outdrive is capable of handling the HP I have. Interesting.... but I doubt I'll get that in a written guarantee. I will still apply power judiciously and avoid allowing the motor to over rev such as when jumping a wake.

I know this reply is long but I've been restoring my boat for 3 years on and off and have been through what you are looking at. In my opinion I feel you have a decision to make in how much money to sink into a 35 year-old boat. I bought my boat for $3500 and I'm now in it another $6500 and several hundred hours. The book value on my boat is about $5000 so I will never see a return. However, I am not doing this for an investment. I owned this boat, an '85, from '89-'98 with a partner and have a ton of memories with it. It's reasonable rare as very few were made and its just a beautiful design. Maybe one of the prettiest boats Cobalt ever made. My wife has instructions to bury me in it.

So I hope this long drawn-out commentary has been useful. Buying an old boat and fixing it up will rarely make you any money but it can be extremely rewarding if done properly. If you want to pick what's left of my brain send me a private message.

Best of luck....
Shawn
 
This has a lot of really great info in it I appreciate it! I actually looked online and found a bravo 1 with merc 7.4 with all steering and tilt for 7k. I may talk to my boat partner and see about working out a deal. I know what you mean about not seeing a return. I've been working on my 96 3500 4 door chevy pickup for almost 4 years now doing a full frame off and repower with duramax diesel. I have $17800 into it. It's just about done still need a new bed. Book is 4-6k but I never plan to sell. This boat is basically the same. My buddy is a good friend of mine and We've been talking about boats for awhile. I really see no reason to sell. So if I can find quality parts for ease of mind I don't mind spending the money. This is all a huge help for me I really do appreciate it!!
 
I would be more concerned about how sound the stringers and transom are before dumping cash into the drivetrain
 
I would be more concerned about how sound the stringers and transom are before dumping cash into the drivetrain

Thanks, I got so into the mechanicals that I forgot to mention this. Nick, before you spend another dime you need to have the stringers checked. Rotten stringers is fairly common on the older boats. Especially if it sat with any water in it. In fact, you really might want to pay the few hundred bucks and have a professional marine surveyor go through the boat. Those few hundys could save you thousands.
 

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