Need pump out on the hard

Madifonzo

New Member
Sep 30, 2013
716
Boston, Ma
Boat Info
2005 280
Zodiac Zoom 310 9.9 Honda
Engines
Twin 5.0 MPI with Bravo III Drives
Local pump boat was inop prior to my haul. Have about 1/4 full holding tank. Anyone ever heard of a mobile pump company that can come to the boat and suck the tank dry?

2nd question: how low will the macerator work? It won't pump but I know there is material in the tank.
 
Maybe try a company that services/pumps out portalets?
 
Do you have an actual macerator, or the transfer pump that would have come with the boat from Sea Ray? Either way, they should get pretty much everything out (down maybe an inch or two)... if there's nothing wrong with the dip tube and the pump is in good shape.

Do you have a trailer (or can borrow one)? Take it to another marina.

You can do it at home - there's a couple ways and I did a few threads on this.... somewhere. The quickest is using a macerator screwed into your pump-out deck plate.
 
I have a septic system at home and every 3 years I call a guy who comes and pumps the tank out. Maybe check local septic companies. I'm sure it's gonna cost ya a pretty penny.
 
I am assuming a macerator. I don't know what the difference is. I know I have what is needed to complete a deck pump out or overboard discharge.

Wonder if a dry/wet vac on the deck fitting would work. Like I mentioned, there is no much in there...maybe I'll just add antifreeze and call it good. I am surprised that I there is nothing coming out of the thru-hull. I can hear the pump working, and yes the seacock is open, but nothing at all comes out.

EDIT Just talked with SeaLand. They stated that any blockage in the vent line will prevent the pump from being able to discharge. Going to check that and see if it solves my issue.
 
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Macerator vs Sealand transfer pump - easy enough to see the difference via googling, but they perform the same function - albeit in different ways.

Take the cap off the waste pump out fitting - will verify if vent is blocked. Does you tank have a pressure relief valve? You should find that out (again, google or check Sealand's site).

Do you really want to let all that stuff sit in there for 6 months?
 
So just spent about an hour disassembling and reassembling entire system. I have a Sealand macerator. The pump operates and none of the lines are blocked. I completely disassembled the vent system so I know that's not the problem...all though I do need a new filter. My last thought is that there is just not enough material in the tank. Next step is to fill tank with about 10 gallons of water and see if the pump then works. Then it's time to try a new stronger pump. If unable to replace I will just buy a cheap electric trash pump and fit it to the deck housing.

This is one has me stumped...

Need a new water pump to add insult to injury.
 
After thinking about this a little more I did something stupid this summer...and prior to that was the last time the pump system worked ok. For some reason I thought filling the tank from the head with a garden hose to help clean the system was a good idea. Well, not sure how it cleaned the system but it did cause the 90' shelf the pump motor sits on to expand outward. Wonder if that's related. As far as I know waste is making its way from the vacuum generator and into the holding tank. Sealand stated that the expansion could be a result of a plugged vent line.
 
Lazy Daze...in another thread you were involved in you mentioned a macerater pump that will thread into my deck plate. Can you tell me what product you were referring to?
 
A plugged vent line could cause expansion, or also could cause the tank to somewhat 'implode' on itself under a hard pump out. That's why it's good to have the pressure relief valve.

OK, we're getting somewhere with the type of overboard discharge you have. Technically what you have is a 'transfer pump', not a macerator -- although the term 'macerator' gets thrown around quite liberally. Chances are, you just might be due for new duck bills in the transfer pump and then everything will work again. Unless there was some MAJOR damage, it's very unlikely that an expanded tank did anything to the transfer pump - although connected, they really are separate items.
 
Lazy Daze...in another thread you were involved in you mentioned a macerater pump that will thread into my deck plate. Can you tell me what product you were referring to?

The threads on a standard macerator should screw right into the deck plate, then attached a garden hose (using a short adapter hose) to the output of the mac. You might have to cut down the smooth 'neck' of the mac a little - I forget if I had to, or not. No biggie, though.

Here's the thread: http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/25205-Home-Pump-Out-Easy
 
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The threads on a standard macerator should screw right into the deck plate, then attached a garden hose (using a short adapter hose) to the output of the mac. You might have to cut down the smooth 'neck' of the mac a little - I forget if I had to, or not. No biggie, though.

Here's the thread: http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/25205-Home-Pump-Out-Easy

So something like this? http://www.seaflo.com/en/productDetail_256.html

Also, do you know of the typical set up allows the deck fitting down tune to reach the bottom of the tank or is there always some sewage in there? Sorry about all the questions but you seem well versed on the subject!
 
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No problem! That should work - although I have never personally heard of that company. I tend to stick with the 'tried and true' brands - besides being sure they are reliable, parts are easy to get. Jabsco, Johnson Pump, Shurflo.

The dip tube goes pretty close to the bottom. I think about an inch or closer.
 
No problem! That should work - although I have never personally heard of that company. I tend to stick with the 'tried and true' brands - besides being sure they are reliable, parts are easy to get. Jabsco, Johnson Pump, Shurflo.

The dip tube goes pretty close to the bottom. I think about an inch or closer.

The portable external pump is a back up plan of for some reason I can't get my main pump fixed before winterization. I will look into sealand service kits for my current pump and change duck bills etc and see if that fixes the problem.

thanks again for the info, I will report back my results,
 
Good luck, Mad. As the old saying goes... "It's a crappy job, but someone has to do it". I'm just glad it's you and not me, this time!
 
As an update. Before I started throwing cash at the problem I decided to fill the holding with fresh water. It now works! I am going to see how much comes out...I am thinking the down tube can't reach passed a certain point. I am estimating that there was 4" in the tank when it wasn't working. Maybe the pump is for use in a pinch and not designed to empty as much as a deck pump would. Neither way, I plan to look into extending the down tube to reach closer to the bottom.

progress....

now finish winterization, compound buff and wax and other odds and ends and that as they say is a wrap.
 
so do you not have an overboard discharge?
i had to take my boat out during a storm and the pump house has broken at our marina and there was no time due to the storm that i could make it to the next marina there and back before the transport company would be at the ramp to haul.

thank God i knew there was nothing but liquid and small amounts of paper in my holding tank but i had to use the 5 gallon bucket route with the macerator and discharge thru-hull back at home. outback in the woods it went. had just under 10 gallons of awefullness but as i said, just liquid.

side note, there is no way i can "zip-tie" my discharge valve closed. there is no lock out hole or option on the valve. any clues as to not create a fine able offense, without removing the valve?
 
As an update. Before I started throwing cash at the problem I decided to fill the holding with fresh water. It now works! I am going to see how much comes out...I am thinking the down tube can't reach passed a certain point. I am estimating that there was 4" in the tank when it wasn't working. Maybe the pump is for use in a pinch and not designed to empty as much as a deck pump would. Neither way, I plan to look into extending the down tube to reach closer to the bottom.

I guess I missed this update, but... No, the dip tube (unless broken) is not the issue. As I said, it goes close enough to the bottom of the tank. As I mentioned above, you might just be due for new duck bills. When you added water, you raised the level of fluid so the pump wouldn't have to work as hard to start drawing the fluid up. Once the pump got "wet" it worked better. But when it was dry, the duck bills are probably old enough that they can't create enough suction to get going.
 
side note, there is no way i can "zip-tie" my discharge valve closed. there is no lock out hole or option on the valve. any clues as to not create a fine able offense, without removing the valve?

Since I never used mine, I just kept the handle off - which really only takes a minute. But maybe you could change out the nut for a wing-nut?
 
I jury-rigged a zip tie around the handle. Looks like it's ziptied and I think that's what they're looking for. Obviously, a zip tie can be snipped. I think they want it so that one would not mistakenly open it.
 

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