Need help fridge and stove no power 1992 sea ray 300 sundancer

What is your location
 
WaveBuster said:
Okay there is a right side panel on this 300 I'll have to take a look tomorrow and see if there is a fuse and that wiring conjunction. This is a 110/12 volt fridge.
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Okay so I have found a fuse block 12 volts to the right of the helm and there was a blower exhaust fuse for the head blown I will replace that and see if that fixes the exhaust fan in the head other than that still looking at the refrigerator stove issue
 
So other than the fridge - all the rest of your 12 volt system items are working? Lights, horn, head pump, water - everything? In re-looking at your pics, it looks like the 50 amp red breaker may be popped - is it?
Your fridge should plug in to a receptacle behind its location. Undo the screws on the front and it will slide out. Unplug it and plug it into an extension cord and see if it powers up. At least this will tell you if the fridge works. Also check the fuss for the 12vdc side of the fridge and if you are up to it, supply the hot (fused) and ground wires with 12vdc and see if it works on that side. Be sure to unplug from 120v first as it will continue to run on the 120 if it powered up. Also - be sure to look and make sure you do not have any more GFIs on the boat. They are hidden in strange places. Maybe someone on here with a 1992 300 will pipe in with how many and the locations.
 
50 amp breaker not popped.
Fridge is not plugged in, factory hardwired. I'm going to pull the fridge open up the junction box and see if there is power there 12 + or 110.
The only place but I have found a gcfi is the head GCF I inside vanity in which has been changed.
The stove is still not firing it has its own dedicated breaker on the power panel.
The bathroom exhaust fan now has power to it because I found a blown fuse on the right side panel at the helm however the blower itself is not firing and there is no way to get to it.
 
My bet is there is another gfi somewhere. Usually there is a plug, 120v, out in the cockpit that is a gfi. I know mine are wired in line. If one is tripped the whole boat goes dead
 
You mentioned above that the AC breakers, even when switched off, show power on the load side of the breaker. That's not correct. Second, breakers don't fail in the "on" position. Even if one would do that, they wouldn't ALL do it. It feels like we're spinning around and around here and not getting anywhere. Honestly, you might do best to have a qualified electrician look at things since it's really hard to help with advice if there's something really strange going on or you're just not using the volt meter correctly.

However, the #1 priority should be to figure out why your breakers aren't operating correctly - whether an appliance works, or not, is immaterial at this point. Breakers that don't work can cause a fire.

WaveBuster said:
however the blower itself is not firing and there is no way to get to it.
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There's always a way.
 
Korkie said:
My bet is there is another gfi somewhere. Usually there is a plug, 120v, out in the cockpit that is a gfi. I know mine are wired in line. If one is tripped the whole boat goes dead
Click to expand...
No gfi on the top side
 
Lazy Daze said:
You mentioned above that the AC breakers, even when switched off, show power on the load side of the breaker. That's not correct. Second, breakers don't fail in the "on" position. Even if one would do that, they wouldn't ALL do it. It feels like we're spinning around and around here and not getting anywhere. Honestly, you might do best to have a qualified electrician look at things since it's really hard to help with advice if there's something really strange going on or you're just not using the volt meter correctly.

However, the #1 priority should be to figure out why your breakers aren't operating correctly - whether an appliance works, or not, is immaterial at this point. Breakers that don't work can cause a fire.


There's always a way.
Click to expand...
Believe it or not I am qualified up to 440 volts three phase this boat is a challenge without schematics I cannot find any schematics anywhere Sea Ray don't have any control over schematics they say so I don't know if there is a set of schematics out there in the consumer's hands are not
 
WaveBuster said:
Believe it or not I am qualified up to 440 volts three phase this boat is a challenge without schematics I cannot find any schematics anywhere Sea Ray don't have any control over schematics they say so I don't know if there is a set of schematics out there in the consumer's hands are not
Click to expand...
I'm not knocking you - don't take anything personal. I guess a couple things threw me off... You mentioned early on that there was no breaker for the stove and then you asked about whether or not measuring hot on both sides of the breaker was normal. I suppose I thought that meant you were a bit "green" when it came to electrical stuff.

But from "our" perspective, the only two things that make logical sense are (1) You don't know where to stick the probes or (2) Some previous owner has had his way with the boat. :) Again, it's not personal - but when we only have a forum, we have to ask a lot of questions to veirfy and the more you answer those, the easier it gets. It's just the nature of forums - we don't know who we're dealing with.

No, I'm not aware of any electrical schematics from that era - at least not for the smaller boats. A few years later Sea Ray did start providing schematics. You might look in your manual and find, at least, wire color codes. But, as you know, for the most part electrical is electrical is electrical. If you don't have your original manual and you don't see it listed online, look a few years newer or older - and/or look for a similar model.

If your fridge truly is hard wired, then maybe your fridge model has a built-in fuse/breaker. But, that still doesn't really fly for me - the breaker/fuse should be at the beginning of the circuit, not the end. Maybe a previous owner added the fridge... although it should have been standard. But maybe someone changed something along the way.

How did you verify that the fridge is hardwired? I'm curious simply because that's the first time I've seen that.

One thing to add about the stove... there should be a little button where the glass lid, that when it's lowered, will push down. That's a safety feature to automatically turn the elements off if the lid is closed - if that button is stuck in the down position (or has malfunctioned), that will disrupt power to the elements.
 
Lazy Daze said:
I'm not knocking you - don't take anything personal. I guess a couple things threw me off... You mentioned early on that there was no breaker for the stove and then you asked about whether or not measuring hot on both sides of the breaker was normal. I suppose I thought that meant you were a bit "green" when it came to electrical stuff.

But from "our" perspective, the only two things that make logical sense are (1) You don't know where to stick the probes or (2) Some previous owner has had his way with the boat. :) Again, it's not personal - but when we only have a forum, we have to ask a lot of questions to veirfy and the more you answer those, the easier it gets. It's just the nature of forums - we don't know who we're dealing with.

No, I'm not aware of any electrical schematics from that era - at least not for the smaller boats. A few years later Sea Ray did start providing schematics. You might look in your manual and find, at least, wire color codes. But, as you know, for the most part electrical is electrical is electrical. If you don't have your original manual and you don't see it listed online, look a few years newer or older - and/or look for a similar model.

If your fridge truly is hard wired, then maybe your fridge model has a built-in fuse/breaker. But, that still doesn't really fly for me - the breaker/fuse should be at the beginning of the circuit, not the end. Maybe a previous owner added the fridge... although it should have been standard. But maybe someone changed something along the way.

How did you verify that the fridge is hardwired? I'm curious simply because that's the first time I've seen that.

One thing to add about the stove... there should be a little button where the glass lid, that when it's lowered, will push down. That's a safety feature to automatically turn the elements off if the lid is closed - if that button is stuck in the down position (or has malfunctioned), that will disrupt power to the elements.
Click to expand...
This is the power panel stove has a breaker .
 

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WaveBuster said:
This is the power panel stove has a breaker .
Click to expand...
The fridge is from the factory no changes were made everything on the up-and-up with the fridge no modifications were done
 
WaveBuster said:
This is the power panel stove has a breaker .
Click to expand...
What I was referring to was that you originally said there was NOT a breaker for the stove, then provided a picture shortly after that clearly showed a breaker.
 
It would be nice if somebody had a schematics of this boat I called Sea Ray yesterday and they said they have no control over schematics electrically speaking
 
WaveBuster said:
The fridge is from the factory no changes were made everything on the up-and-up with the fridge no modifications were done
Click to expand...
I'm not saying it isn't the original - but if you haven't had the boat since new, and can't verify it's complete history (how many previous owners?) then there is always the possibility of the 'previous owner syndrome'.
 
WaveBuster said:
It would be nice if somebody had a schematics of this boat I called Sea Ray yesterday and they said they have no control over schematics electrically speaking
Click to expand...
You asked that already - I gave the answer above.
 
Update: Stove Works, Now going to pull fridge.
 
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