Nater Potater's Build Thread

Yep, that's the one. Both 12 and 120 volts. I found it odd that they use the same BA15D base and, as far as I can tell, they don't differentiate which is which.
Mine is not like any of the others. And both are different from 120 to 12. After looking for a few hours with my micrometer and metric ruler out, I gave up with the bulb and figured I would just replace the whole thing.

On a side note, I went to move the boat out and between October to today, one wheel was locked up tight. Tried to rock it free but ended up having my boy pay for his rent by climbing under the trailer and backing the shoes off. Should have had him paint that strip down the middle I couldn't reach. Why someone would paint the bottom of a trailered boat is beyond me.
 
Mine is not like any of the others. And both are different from 120 to 12. After looking for a few hours with my micrometer and metric ruler out, I gave up with the bulb and figured I would just replace the whole thing.

On a side note, I went to move the boat out and between October to today, one wheel was locked up tight. Tried to rock it free but ended up having my boy pay for his rent by climbing under the trailer and backing the shoes off. Should have had him paint that strip down the middle I couldn't reach. Why someone would paint the bottom of a trailered boat is beyond me.


They wouldnt happen to be the 120v E14 bases? The 320’s have the dual 12v/120v fixtures.
126209AC-CFAB-43D1-BD0D-8518733D5AA2.jpeg
 
Nater,

You've done more in a few weeks than I have in the past year! I'm a lazy S.O.B.! I'm ready and will hit the water very soon. We were too stinkin' busy earlier to drop it in the water. Now it's too dang hot! We're heading to Farragut Sunday through next Saturday, but we're not taking the boat. Let me know if you'll be around.
 
Bulbs used in the 92 300DA.

Overheads. 1156. Bayonet base BA15s
Engine room and cockpit indirect same.
Can lights. 194. LED is listed as same
Step. Type 67 small base BA15s
Transom Nav Type 90 BA15d

As I have said before, the double power above the galley has some weird ones that I couldn't identify.
 
Bulbs used in the 92 300DA.

Overheads. 1156. Bayonet base BA15s
Engine room and cockpit indirect same.
Can lights. 194. LED is listed as same
Step. Type 67 small base BA15s
Transom Nav Type 90 BA15d

As I have said before, the double power above the galley has some weird ones that I couldn't identify.
Thanks for the list! That galley light on mine uses both 12VDC as mentioned back in post #75, plus this 120VAC sewing machine bulb (also an LED):
IMG-2811.jpg


I still find it very curious that they'd use the same socket in such close proximity for both low and high voltage. One slip and you've got a blown bulb. Or, in my case, three.

Moving deeper into the cabin reveals this CO monitor:
IMG-2810.jpg

Trying to find a manual turned up nothing. I was kind of surprised, but I did find something along the lines of Aqua Meter being involved with a boating accident from CO poisoning. I can only assume the company is no longer in business. Then it dawned on me; why am I wasting time on a thirty-year-old CO detector? How about we install new CO and smoke detectors? Yeah, that makes more sense...
Outdrive pits are slowly disappearing, paint is on its way. Still have the A/C and gennie to look after. Closer every day.
 
I think the CO detectors only last 7 (?) years for home or an RV/Boat. Planned obsolescence so you HAVE to buy a new one every 7 years. What a nice business model!
 
7 years? I thought it was 5 years. Either way, I have nothing. I guess you only get the monitor If you have a gennie.

I'd like to put two in. One in cabin and one in cockpit. When we went looking at them, o ky found the "cheap ones" that started at $100 and went up from there. But only found wired ones and need battery operated.

Maybe should look online instead of local.
 
7 years? I thought it was 5 years. Either way, I have nothing. I guess you only get the monitor If you have a gennie.

I'd like to put two in. One in cabin and one in cockpit. When we went looking at them, o ky found the "cheap ones" that started at $100 and went up from there. But only found wired ones and need battery operated.

Maybe should look online instead of local.
Ace, Amazon and others have them. They are in the $20 dollar range or used to be anyway! Some just sound an alarm and others show the actual level on the display. I like to see the amount on the display. I'm weird that way. I don't have a gennie on board either and have only had them go off once in a slip at Friday Harbor when I fired up both motors and the wind blew the exhaust back into the cabin. We left the slip and open the hatch and we were fine in a few minutes. Seems like the guy next to me touched off his engines at the same time.

I did a quick look, and they recommend changing them after 5 years because their ability to detect CO decrease as they age, but 8 to 10 years is the "life" and most have a clock that will sound an alarm when they reach the end of their 8- or 10-year life.
 
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kidde-1...th-Voice-Alarm-CO-Detector-21031033/317626072
Completely stand-alone, detector and battery supposedly good for ten years.

I'm sure the brand will have just the monitor. Like I said, I like local first. And have yet to look online. Besides, I'm afraid to walk into the orange store. They stiffed me on over $8k in lumber on one job and another $5k on a second. The woke hipsters in the closest store might sport an attitude, again and I will have to unleash $13k in attitude back. Effin crooks.
 
I like local first. And have yet to look online. Besides, I'm afraid to walk into the orange store.
I only threw that link in there as for a reference. Just like this link - https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-210260...8890754&sprefix=co+detec,aps,171&sr=8-10&th=1

As of this evening, we have one gear case and two lower units ready for paint. Plus the shower sump pump showed up in the mail, so no whining from the peanut gallery about getting an evening rinse-off. Tomorrow's plan is to prep and JB-Weld the remaining gear case and look into plumbing the A/C for water for an on-the-hard test. Fingers crossed!
 
I only threw that link in there as for a reference. Just like this link - https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-21026043-Battery-Operated-Combination-KN-COSM-BA/dp/B00PC5S0PA/ref=sr_1_10?crid=3RPEPPBOPYC9W&keywords=co+detector&qid=1658890754&sprefix=co+detec,aps,171&sr=8-10&th=1

As of this evening, we have one gear case and two lower units ready for paint. Plus the shower sump pump showed up in the mail, so no whining from the peanut gallery about getting an evening rinse-off. Tomorrow's plan is to prep and JB-Weld the remaining gear case and look into plumbing the A/C for water for an on-the-hard test. Fingers crossed!

Good Luck Nater! You've been busy fixing stuff and I'm sure it's all done RIGHT! By the way, I may need some help on my boat..... LOL!!! Just kidding, but it IS an old boatt (Break Out Another Ten Thou$and!) and you never know! :)
 
Good Luck Nater! You've been busy fixing stuff and I'm sure it's all done RIGHT! By the way, I may need some help on my boat..... LOL!!! Just kidding, but it IS an old boatt (Break Out Another Ten Thou$and!) and you never know! :)
Well, you are only about five hours, so-o-o, I suppose I could be coerced into stopping by. Let's drag GoFirstClass along for the ride! I tell you what sucks; if I was to bring my boat along, it'd have to go through Oregon and that ain't happenin'!
 
Well, you are only about five hours, so-o-o, I suppose I could be coerced into stopping by. Let's drag GoFirstClass along for the ride! I tell you what sucks; if I was to bring my boat along, it'd have to go through Oregon and that ain't happenin'!
I can send you a PDF of my permit.:D
 
Alright all you boys and girls out there in TV-land; I'm to the 90% point with the outdrives where I'm wondering why I didn't just drop the twelve grand, pull both engines, and replace the entire transom assemblies. I have about another hour's-worth of sanding, then they're ready for priming and paint, but I'm sick and tired of it all! Okay; I feel better now.
Thursday's shipments brought the primer and black paint, and a brand-new tongue jack for the trailer. Speaking of the trailer, I still need to crawl underneath to get dimensions off the rotted bunks. The plan is to get them ready to bolt in once we know the boat runs. Since we don't have access down here for long-term slip storage, we'll have to float the boat, tie it off to the dock (hopefully, out of everyone's way), then swap out the bunks.
So, the plan for Saturday is to get the outdrives painted. Once that happens, we can reassemble the drives to the transom, light the engines, and make sure the exhaust riser work was successful. At that point, the boat should be seaworthy. The rest is just amenities.
 
Why not just block the boat? I had to block mine to adjust the bunks on mine. The only real problem I had was when I used wood blocks too tall and the boat was stuck up in the air.

That one had me baffled for a few days.
 
Why not just block the boat? I had to block mine to adjust the bunks on mine. The only real problem I had was when I used wood blocks too tall and the boat was stuck up in the air.

That one had me baffled for a few days.
I pondered that, but I have no clue as to how one goes about getting the trailer out from under the boat. Or do you mean to just temporarily raise the boat up with blocks between the hull and trailer frame. Ideas? Either way, I don’t have enough “muscle” to lift that much weight. I guess I should YouTube it.
 

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