My new process with winterizing-Thoughts?

I don't think it's so much which oil protects better, but the fact that the oil introduced through the fuel system is above the piston rings, whereas the engine oil is below. For a proper "engine fog" you really want oil in both places. Since the two stroke oil is designed to mix with fuel, it's the obvious choice to add to the fuel system as it will dissolve in the fuel and run through the fuel systems.
 
I'm glad this came up in regards to fogging. I ordered a small OB tank, 2 QD fittings, and the "cocktail" ingredients.

My plan was to disconnect the line from the inlet of the fuel filter (screw on type) and run the mixture through the motors. I grabbed 5 ft of fuel line so the tank can sit above decks. I looked into the filling the filter method, but it seemed like a bit of a guessing game as to when to run the motors until to make sure it doesn't suck up more fresh fuel (our tanks do not have shutoffs)

I quickly found these valves, the fittings look like 1/4", on the boat can anyone confirm?

https://jet.com/product/product/944...70d155dabac3&gclid=CIKY1b7O-ccCFQQHaQod-kYAUg

I would then add one of these to the outlet of the valve to simplify the fogging

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007G2JFBA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01

Actually, you can keep it even simpler than all of this, if you want to. The cocktail method is required for MPI engines, but not for your EFI's. You can actually just spray fogging oil right into the throttle body. Or, you can just spin off your fuel filter and add about 2 ounces of 2-cycle and a dash of stabilizer. Spin it back on and start her up.

But, wait, I suppose I should be telling you to buy more than you need...
 
Actually, you can keep it even simpler than all of this, if you want to. The cocktail method is required for MPI engines, but not for your EFI's. You can actually just spray fogging oil right into the throttle body. Or, you can just spin off your fuel filter and add about 2 ounces of 2-cycle and a dash of stabilizer. Spin it back on and start her up.

But, wait, I suppose I should be telling you to buy more than you need...

Ah I must have read the bulletin wrong I thought it was for EFI's as well. That makes life much simpler. I'm assuming this is done in the old fuel filter prior to replacing (maybe it doesn't matter?) Do you think 30 seconds is enough time to get the oil through the injectors without pulling new fuel? Thank you!:thumbsup:
 
The whole idea is that you don't want the "real" fogging oil (the spray stuff) going through the injectors. Since you have throttle body injectors that just sit on top of the TB, you can easily squirt past them. There's also the issue that MPI's have more sensors that can be finicky to the fogging oil. EFI's do, too, but for whatever reason they don't seem to be as sensitive. BUT, if you wanted to play it on the safe side, then just use the fuel filter. You've got to change it anyways. I suppose a case could be made both ways for using the old filter or the new filter. For me, I figure that the cocktail mix that you're putting in there is not a bad thing and it's not like the 2-cycle is going to clog anything up. So, me, I put the cocktail mix into the new filter. Run the engine for exactly 5 minutes at between 1,200-1,300 RPM's and then shut if off. Done. Don't expect to see much smoke, though -- certainly not as much as what you might remember when fogging an old outboard. For what it's worth, I 'fog' EFI's by using the fuel filter method.
 
I did a lot of shopping for that particular boat before I bought. Check your facts. Not on that model with that engine setup.

Now your telling me a gas diluted 2 stroke oil protects your cylinder better than straight motor oil? Laugh fable to say the least.
Your in the biz to sell as much as possible. I understand that. Any DIY guy with common sense can figure this one out.

I suppose there's many ways that I could answer this. But I believe the most appropriate is "I'm not interested".
 
The whole idea is that you don't want the "real" fogging oil (the spray stuff) going through the injectors. Since you have throttle body injectors that just sit on top of the TB, you can easily squirt past them. There's also the issue that MPI's have more sensors that can be finicky to the fogging oil. EFI's do, too, but for whatever reason they don't seem to be as sensitive. BUT, if you wanted to play it on the safe side, then just use the fuel filter. You've got to change it anyways. I suppose a case could be made both ways for using the old filter or the new filter. For me, I figure that the cocktail mix that you're putting in there is not a bad thing and it's not like the 2-cycle is going to clog anything up. So, me, I put the cocktail mix into the new filter. Run the engine for exactly 5 minutes at between 1,200-1,300 RPM's and then shut if off. Done. Don't expect to see much smoke, though -- certainly not as much as what you might remember when fogging an old outboard. For what it's worth, I 'fog' EFI's by using the fuel filter method.

I appreciate your insight, just saved me $70+ on the OB tank and accessories as well as the headache of disconnecting fuel lines that have probably been in place since '98 when the boat was assembled.
 
I appreciate your insight, just saved me $70+ on the OB tank and accessories as well as the headache of disconnecting fuel lines that have probably been in place since '98 when the boat was assembled.

No problem! I'm all for "projects", but sometimes it's just better to keep it simple. Good luck!
 
I appreciate your insight, just saved me $70+ on the OB tank and accessories as well as the headache of disconnecting fuel lines that have probably been in place since '98 when the boat was assembled.

It gets even simpler for your TBI. you spray REAL fogging oil down the throat of your throttle body like it was a carb.
 
It gets even simpler for your TBI. you spray REAL fogging oil down the throat of your throttle body like it was a carb.

Wouldn't that be leaving the TBI injectors vulnerable since nothing is conditioning them? Or is that not a concern?
 
Aren't you the guy that runs over objects in the water and get's struck by lightning, and has plenty of down time to his credit?
So "ditto" isn't really the correct term to use, when I say my boat runs EVERY time I want to use it.
For the record, FW isn't the only one you annoy
 
Those are acts of nature, which I assume you believe you are immune? You are something else, my friend...(rolling eyes)

For the record, my boat is in 100% working order, always. If something malfunctions it is fixed as soon as it is discovered. For you to imply that malfunctions don't occur in life is moronic at best.

And btw, the feeling is mutual.

Your boat is 100% operational except when it isn't operating. Do I have that right ...LMFAO
 
Scott : just a note for you. It looks like in the second photo you have used white teflon tape on the fitting. White tape isn't rated for fuel use, you should use the yellow teflon tape instead.

Now back to the original question. I would do as Dennis suggests not what someone else is suggesting. The factory service manual is what I follow and what Dennis is advocating. If you want to disregard that and follow what some anonymous hack suggests, well its your engine.
 
Scott : just a note for you. It looks like in the second photo you have used white teflon tape on the fitting. White tape isn't rated for fuel use, you should use the yellow teflon tape instead.

Now back to the original question. I would do as Dennis suggests not what someone else is suggesting. The factory service manual is what I follow and what Dennis is advocating. If you want to disregard that and follow what some anonymous hack suggests, well its your engine.

+1 at 100%.

Dennis and Scott know what they are talking about.

Bennett
 
All basically I will fog as the manual states. Lol. I just wish there was a way to do it from the main tanks instead of having to use a remote tank and be disconnecting fuel lines.
 
All basically I will fog as the manual states. Lol. I just wish there was a way to do it from the main tanks instead of having to use a remote tank and be disconnecting fuel lines.

There is as Dennis stated I believe...mix the cocktail in the cool fuel unit, run 5 mins between 1200-1300 rpms and done.....This is what I did last year....It takes all of 7 mins total.

Bennett
 
There is as Dennis stated I believe...mix the cocktail in the cool fuel unit, run 5 mins between 1200-1300 rpms and done.....This is what I did last year....It takes all of 7 mins total.

Bennett

I read back through. I saw where it was mentioned to run the cocktail in the fuel filter but did not see where it was mentioned to fill the cool fuel module.interesting idea though...can this really be done?
 

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