My 16,000 BTU Aft AC Unit Crapped Out

electricaldoctor

electricaldoctor

Well-Known Member
TECHNICAL Contributor
May 14, 2008
3,538
Thousand Islands, Rockport, Ontario.
Boat Info
1988 390 EC
Engines
454 Mercruiser Gassers
IMG_20150726_092403.jpgIMG_20150726_092433.jpgIMG_20150726_092535.jpgIMG_20150726_092546.jpg16k unit.jpg

The circuit board in the control box needs replacing as well because it will not shut off the AC water pump once the thermostat(s) are satisfied.

Any ideas how many boat bucks this is going to set me back?

~Ken
 
That circuit board looks to have about $10 worth of components on it, and it's an old-school design which can be easily worked on with normal soldering equipment.
 
Those units are usually around 2.5k.

They are the same as Cruisair with different controls.

If the compressor and air handler is OK you may just be able to replace the electronics…

I can’t believe the unit itself is bad as that’s the newer design that came out just a few years ago.
 
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they want $250 for that board. four resistors, three capacitors, two triacs, and two timer chips. I bet the terminal strip is the most expensive thing on there. I guess I'm in the wrong business... I would find a local electronics repair shop if you're not comfortable messing with it. They could probably fix yours for half the cost of new.
 
If that's the original unit, I would consider strongly replacing the entire unit. There are other brands that can be purchased for $1500.00 and up. You can spend a lot of money chasing the problem. New units are easy to install, 2 hoses and some wires. I assume it the unit under the salon coach, easy to get at. The new ones are also much more efficient.
 
I agree with replacing the entire unit. Besides efficiency, there are a more reasons. The newer units are not fully compatable with older ones so when you change compressors, which is what usually bites the dirt first, you also have to change the controls. We found that new package units are a lot cheaper to buy than trying to piece old and new together. The other big reason is that the new turbine compressors are infinitely quieter than the old piston compressor designs. We have gradually replaced both of our A/C units and the noise difference in the cabin is striking.

Dometic now owns both Cruise Air and Marine Air so the choices are simpler. Our marine has installed several Webasto units lately with very good results. I think they bear a serious look. I believe they are Chineese but they are like 50% cheaper. The service manager's opinion is that with labor rates now over $100/hour, they will be throw-aways that you can replace cheaper then repairing.....but so far, none have needed any repairs.
 
Hi guys. I should have explained that pic of the AC unit is a brand new one. Mine still has the original 3-knob control, so I welcome the new digital control pad. I have not bought it yet. He wants $1,650.00 CDN and will toss in the control box for a total of $1,800.00 CDN or approx. $1,365.00 USD

~Ken
 
electricaldoctor said:
Hi guys. I should have explained that pic of the AC unit is a brand new one. Mine still has the original 3-knob control, so I welcome the new digital control pad. I have not bought it yet. He wants $1,650.00 CDN and will toss in the control box for a total of $1,800.00 CDN or approx. $1,365.00 USD

~Ken
Click to expand...

If that's a 16BTU not to bad of a price. I replaced mine with a 20BTU Much better!! Remember I'm in fl.
 
I forgot to say, make sure you have the hose and discharge ports the same as you have. I changed mine out in less than 2 hrs.
 
It does look like an easy swap out for sure. I could save some more $$ if I knew how to trouble shoot the components on the control box circuit board. Can the components be tested right on the board or do they have to be de-soldered? I have all of the test equipment, but I am lost when it comes to electronics.
 
Replaced a cruiseair unit a couple of months ago. I didn't do the work, had someone do it. Unfortunately is was the unit in the forward cabin that required the bed to be dissembled. I think total cost parts and labor was 2,500 to 3,000. I could look up the invoice if it mattered. But generally the prices you are hearing are inline.

Mark
 
I'm a bit confused. Are you saying the RWC pump for the unit runs constantly after the compressor shuts down or the RWC pump and the compressor never shut down.

If the former, so what. The pump is damn near bulletproof and the water you boat in is cleaner than what comes out of a faucet in my town. I know a few who have had the problem you have and just bypassed pump part altogether. Put an on/off switch for when the weather was comfy for no HVAC.
 
The water pump runs continuously. It is on it's own breaker, so there is no problem shutting it off when not required. I just replaced the pump a few weeks ago, so I thought that this would be a good time to address the problem and have the system operate how it was originally intended to. The circuit board is way overpriced, so it would be neat to make the repair on my own. A little help on how to trouble shoot the components would be well appreciated.

~Ken
 
Ken

its real hard to test componets on the board due to you will get feedback from the circuit and not a true reading.

I have the same unit if you need any info or specs let me know

Saverio
 
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