Mid-90's 270 Sundancer Thread

Mine has the main 12v breaker panel mounted on top of the hot water heater. Near this is an inline fuse holder which is labeled as being for the radio. The circuit breakers at the helm should pop out if they have tripped. Depending on what type of radio you have you may have fuses either in the back of the head unit or at the wiring harness inside the cabinet.
 
It's the stock radio (Clarion m1000 or whatever - I can't remember the number). Any idea if that one has an internal fuse? I found that 12V panel yesterday, and what looked like a separate fuse holder, but it was labeled for something else (definitely not the radio). I'll see if I can find another one.
 
Since I can't find a wiring diagram for this boat (anyone know where one is?), does anyone know where all the fuses are for the stereo?
Unfortunately there is not one on the Searay site, but look at post #7 in this thread (from Dave M) and click on the 3 images in that post.

There were two in the wire bundle behind the radio, the panel below the helm with the push button (fuses?) has a "stereo" button - do these actually pop out if they're bad - or do you need to actually pull the thing apart to check it?
On my boat, the circuit breaker labeled 'Stereo' under the steering wheel is what it says. It will pop out occasionally (tripped) and all you have to do is shut off the stereo and push it back in. I do not have any fuses inline, but my receiver is not original.
 
Went out and checked and I have 2 fuses by the main 12v distribution - one is Mercathode and the other is Stereo Memory which is the 12v constant power for the head unit. I don't think the stock Clarion has a fuse which plugs into the rear of the head unit but does have fuses as part of the wiring harness. If the main 12v fuse and circuit breaker is ok then you'll need to pull the panel and check the radio wiring. It's pretty easy to do - disconnect all power and remove the 4 screws and the whole panel pulls out (minus the radio). This will give you full access to all of the wiring to check the fuses and connections.
 
Well, I can still only find the mercathode fuse, but I got out the meter and read 12V on the red wire going into the head unit, so I think that's probably proof enough that it's fried...
Thanks for the assistance.
 
I am not actively looking for a 270 (94-97) now but it is the top boat on my list for a near future purchase. I prefer a twin with heat/air, vacu-flush, and windlass in a fresh water boat. Other preferences desired are generator and no bottom paint. Camper canvas and a trailer are nice but can be easily acquired.

Is there anything missing from my list I should think about adding?

Anyone (other than Travis) have a boat like this?

Should I also think about the single 7.4?

MM
 
As I look at the 270s for sale I have some questions. Thanks in advance for your help!!!

Windlass, I see pricing for components online but is it practical to retrofit and are there hidden costs?

Vacu-flush, How is this different from “electric” I see online? Is it practical or desirable to retrofit and are there hidden costs?

Spotlight, Is it practical to retrofit and are there hidden costs?

Several posterers were owners active on this tread in 06. Are there many on the site that are owners today?
 
About the only thing I can address is that the 7.4 with Bravo 3 works great for my boat, even with another family and pulling a triple Big Mabel. Twin v-6's double your maint. costs with out much improvement in performance, twin v-8's would take up a lot of volume in the ER and make service difficult for large-size adults. As long as you keep your fuel stabilized and do maint. as scheduled for a big sinngle, you shouldn't have to worry about the need for a back-up motor to get you home.

I've been thinking about a windlass. I believe that the factory built them with a wiring tube, but not certain. I like to carry 24' of chain and 150' of rope which fills the anchor locker pretty well: not sure if there would be room for the type oif windlass with the motor mounted under the deck.

I would like a Vacu-flush since they use less water than my manual pump (the females in the crew really fill that 28 gal black tank pretty fast.
 
I retrofitted a windlass on my '97. See this post for more info. There is no conduit running aft from the anchor locker. I ran mine behind the coaming at the rubrail, behind the cabinet and under the mirror in the aft cabin into the bilge.

The vacuflush works like an airplane toilet by maintaining constant vacuum that sucks the effluent when you flush and send it to the holding tank. It uses fresh (clean) water from your on board supply.

The electric toilet draws in lake (not so clean) water and when you flush it macerates (like a blender) the effluent and pumps it either to a holding tank or overboard - depending on your setup and how your valves are set.

It can be a very expensive and potentially nasty job to retrofit a vacuflush. If that's what you really want then you'd do much better to find a boat with it already installed.

I don't think I've ever seen a 270 without a spotlight, but it wouldn't be too hard to put one in. I wonder if Searay would install the 'shelf' on the bowrail without a light, though. Also, fishing the wires thru the railing like the factory does would seem to be a chore.
 
Hi everybody! This is my first post and my first boat. I looked here when researching for our purchase. Me and my 3 partners bought a 94 270DA. We just got it last Labor Day 09 and this will be our first full season with it. The survey we had on it before buying it showed it as a very clean and sound boat. It wasnt entirely true and have had to get some work done on it. (Gimbal ring/shaft, fuel pump). I am very new at this and am Im looking forward to relying on all of your knowledge here and am glad this thread isnt dead.

Currently we need to resecure the rear bimini frame and rebuild the head pump. It pushes waste into waste tank but doesnt draw any water in when on "wet bowl" setting:huh:.

Its gonna be a great Summer! Anyone here from Chicago?
 
The seacock is open. Thats the first thing I checked. I believe the lever that switches from wet bowl to dry bowl isnt working.
 
Is this a Vacu-flush system for the late 90s 270s? If not could someone post a picture of what it looks like?

Thanks, MM
 

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Questions about camper canvas.

Can you boat with the canvas up or is this just for the slip or hook?

Can you tow with the canvas up on a trailerable?

How long does the canvas last? Is it dry rot resistant in enclosed storage?

How long does it take to put it up and take back down?

If rain is approaching is it realistic to put it up then?

Is it built to regularly put up and down or is this heavy use?

Anything a newbie should know you want to share about camper canvas and glass?

Thanks in advance, MM
 
Yes you can boat with the canvas up. Nice for extending the season.

I would only tow with the canvas up at 30mph and below. Boat speeds. It is not made for anything more than that.

Canvas can last 3-10 years depending on how much it is used and cared for. Sun is its biggest enemy. It should not rot in storage if kept dry.

The front bimini glass and side curtains take about 15 minutes to put up and 15 to take down and stow. Probably plus the same amount for the rear bimini and sides.

Yes the canvas can be put up with rain on the way. Done it many times to save the day.

There are no problems putting it up and taking it down as long as it is done and stored properly.

Do not crease the glass, roll in a long roll.

I do not like to leave anything other than the bimini up for longer than needed.

A fastback canvas is what I use instead of the camper back. This comes off the back of the front bimini and snaps to the stern of the boat. No second bimini needed, gives nice room inside.

I keep a full cockpit cover on it when in the slip. Starts at the base of the windshield and goes back to the stern snaps. Keeps the interior clean and cool.
 
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I thought I would bump the thread to get some more info and I have been seeing a few new 270 owners on the site.

I have been out on my 2000 270 twin engine twice now so far I love the layout and enjoy dinette feature. Also, having twin engines is kind of cool

The only dislike so far is the bed size in the V berth so I'm going to try sleeping in the aft bed this weekend if I don't feel claustrophobic back there.

I bought an 18" LCD with an outdoor antenna from radio shack and the TV reception is not the greatest in most places. I have to put the antenna out the hatch to get anything at all so to do I bought a flat cable that I can close the hatch to stop the bugs or water from coming in.

Weather is going to be in 70's and sunny this weekend so looking forward into get to know to her better this weekend:smt038
 
I don't mind the aft cabin if its cooler at night. I have heat but no air conditioning. If it is super hot though a fan does not circulate enough air. I hope to make it to Put-in-bay or kelley's Isalnd this weekend. Sunny, low wind, 1-3s, in the mid to upper 60s.
 
I have found a 1999 Regal 2660 (also sold as a 2765 2001+) I like. I have been looking at 90s 270s and 00+ 260s. Has anyone researched the 2660 or 2765 Regal? A friend suggested I check them out as I am tall and the cabin height is a foot higher. It is!!! It does feel better down there. The head has much more height than the 260.

I was more excited about the boat when I thought it was a Midwest freshwater boat. The owner bought it from a broker in Florida. It looks great has a nice shine and is not bottom painted. Would you believe this boat had mostly fresh water use?

Thanks for any opinions.

If I bought one would I still be welcome to hang out here?

MM
 
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