Mid-90's 270 Sundancer Thread

What makes you think his have been worked?
The quality of the priming and painting on his. Almost looks like it was applied like powder coat process. The edges tho arent sharpened or cupped that I can see so likely not worked just a quality original paint job that has deteriorated over time.
 
The quality of the priming and painting on his. Almost looks like it was applied like powder coat process. The edges tho arent sharpened or cupped that I can see so likely not worked just a quality original paint job that has deteriorated over time.
Gotcha. Just curious.
 
On the other hand, If you look at the last two photos he provided itt almost looks like there was some filling going on as part of the priming process. Its hard to tell so again, not sure. Its definitely not a back yard finish that was put on his props.
 
On the other hand, If you look at the last two photos he provided itt almost looks like there was some filling going on as part of the priming process. Its hard to tell so again, not sure. Its definitely not a back yard finish that was put on his props.
You'd be surprised what some guys can do in their backyard.
 
Same props I have on my 97 290. Bravo 3. Mine were painted before I got it. What makes you think his have been worked?
I'll probably end up polishing mine. I trailer.

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Hey Hawk, I know you've worked long and hard on your boat (Following your thread) but you should think of your props like the rear tires on your Camaro. If they are not spit shining clean it's like running under pressured sand tires at the track. This would result in a over taxed engine and drivetrain and not to mention, a under performing car/boat. This is probably an extreme analogy but hope it helps.
 
Hey Hawk, I know you've worked long and hard on your boat (Following your thread) but you should think of your props like the rear tires on your Camaro. If they are not spit shining clean it's like running under pressured sand tires at the track. This would result in a over taxed engine and drivetrain and not to mention, a under performing car/boat. This is probably an extreme analogy but hope it helps.
Someone talked me out of polishing them initially. At first I figured the paint protection was a good idea like they said, but I trailer so I'm not worried about it. I'll be polishing them this winter. I love the look of polished stainless.
 
My plan is to keep removing it as best I can with the plastic scraper. What do you guys suggest for polishing tools after I get all that crap off?
 
My plan is to keep removing it as best I can with the plastic scraper. What do you guys suggest for polishing tools after I get all that crap off?
Google "polish stainless steel." There are several processes out there. Mostly starts with sanding with a da and ends with rouge I think.
 
Has anyone done any work on their wet head drain? Specifically what is the best way to access it? While I was prepping the boat for the season I was checking the shower sump pump and noticed water dripping from the drain connection looking through the stair access. Is there a way to remove the carpeted toe kick that sits just outside the wet head below the door? It looks like its just a carpet covered board or is removing the staircase the better option?

The only way I was able to actually put eyes on the drain fitting was to stick my arm through the staircase access and record with my cell phone. There is no way I will be able to reach it without some disassembly as I'm built like a T-rex.
 
Has anyone done any work on their wet head drain? Specifically what is the best way to access it? While I was prepping the boat for the season I was checking the shower sump pump and noticed water dripping from the drain connection looking through the stair access. Is there a way to remove the carpeted toe kick that sits just outside the wet head below the door? It looks like its just a carpet covered board or is removing the staircase the better option?

The only way I was able to actually put eyes on the drain fitting was to stick my arm through the staircase access and record with my cell phone. There is no way I will be able to reach it without some disassembly as I'm built like a T-rex.
Mr. T Rex, What kind of MPG are you burning with the 270 7.4? Thanks, JC
 
Mr. T Rex, What kind of MPG are you burning with the 270 7.4? Thanks, JC

Not sure yet. I've only had her out 3 times since I bought it this past October( 2 times then, 3rd time was end of this April). So I haven't really been tracking that yet. I was thinking of installing the Garmin GFS 10 fuel flow sensor so I could easily track that info.
 
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Not sure yet. I've only had her out 3 times since I bought it this past October( 2 times then, 3rd time was end of this April). So I haven't really been tracking that yet. I was thinking of installing the Garmin GFS 10 fuel flow sensor so I could easily track that info.
Thanks for the reply I appreciate it. When you get some Idea please post. Thanks again, JC
 
Front Glass, Top, & Camper Canvas For 94-99 270 DA

This is canvas that came with my 270 and has been in storage for years. It is a match to the Great Lakes Boat Top canvas from Sea Ray. The glass looks yellowed but all is in reasonable shape, Wheat color.

I have:
3 front glass panels.
2 side glass panels
1 Bimini top.
2 top boot covers.
2 camper side panels
1 camper back panel
1 camper top. (this is the only piece that has damage, it has torn in the seam, about 12 inches, 2 inches behind the zipper that connects to the Bimini.)

Will sell all or individual pieces, PM me and make an offer on what you need.

MM
Is any of the canvas still available?
 
Hello I am considering a 1999 Sundancer SE with generator and twin 4.3l's with Alpha I's. I previously owned a 268 Sundancer and a 290 Sundancer and wanted a 27'-28' with twins and generator. What are opinions and experiences with this model. Is the 8'6" beam noticeable narrower?
 
Yes, the beam is noticeably narrower than the 290. However, for two (with rare 4), I think its fine. The twin 4.3 is the best set up and likely can handle the added generator weight with ease. I have the 7.4L and its got good performance sans the generator. I like the ability to trailer so the narrow beam is required. I wonder, Having not gotten close up to the twin option, I would look carefully at the engine bilge and at ease of getting to stuff. Might not be the easiest to get to maintenance locations with two 4.3Ls in there. May not sound like a big deal but if you do your own work I can gurantee you like room to access.
 
Thanks but correction I found out the boat is not the SE edition.

Yes, the beam is noticeably narrower than the 290. However, for two (with rare 4), I think its fine. The twin 4.3 is the best set up and likely can handle the added generator weight with ease. I have the 7.4L and its got good performance sans the generator. I like the ability to trailer so the narrow beam is required. I wonder, Having not gotten close up to the twin option, I would look carefully at the engine bilge and at ease of getting to stuff. Might not be the easiest to get to maintenance locations with two 4.3Ls in there. May not sound like a big deal but if you do your own work I can gurantee you like room to access.
 
I'm probably mis-naming it, but I'm referring to the trim piece (coaming?) that runs along the deck-hull joint (rubrail) inside the cabin between the microwave cabinet and the anchor locker.

Edit: Sea Ray calls it the 'Muff, V-Berth Gunwale Port'.

Edit again: I think I like my name better.

Hi, I am new to the web site and to this thread. My question may have been previously asked and answered so I apologize. I have a 1996 270DA Sundancer.
I can't figure out how the (as Sear Ray calls them) Muff vberth gunwales are attached. I was able to remove the bolsters, but still trying to figure out the gunwales. If anyone has removed these and can help me out, I would appreciate it. I have owned this boat for 27 years and I am in the process of updating the interior.
Jim
 
Hello everyone,
I’m trying to wrap my head around the batteries and charging system. I know there’s lots of threads on the topic but I can’t find what I’m looking for. I have a 270 with a single 7.4. Three batteries, two deep cycle in parallel on battery position 2, and one start in battery position 1. When I’m heading out for a run, do I switch to battery to position one and leave it? If so, if I turn on the DC switch for the fridge while underway, would that be to much draw from just that start battery?
 
Hello everyone,
I’m trying to wrap my head around the batteries and charging system. I know there’s lots of threads on the topic but I can’t find what I’m looking for. I have a 270 with a single 7.4. Three batteries, two deep cycle in parallel on battery position 2, and one start in battery position 1. When I’m heading out for a run, do I switch to battery to position one and leave it? If so, if I turn on the DC switch for the fridge while underway, would that be to much draw from just that start battery?
Starting batteries provide a lot of cranking amps for the heavy draw from a motor, but once the motor is running, that demand drops out. Using a refrigerator while under way isnt a problem at all. I wouldnt recommend relying on a starter battery for usage while anchored and expecting it to keep you running for 24 hours long, but its more than enough for a few hours. Your best bet is to keep your battery switch to your starter battery while starting and underway, and feel free to use any of your DC devices while you're running, but once you stop, switch over to your house batteries and use them for all your DC
 

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