Mid-90's 270 Sundancer Thread

I have a 95 270. I've replaced just about everything mechanical on the boat. I thought I was way underpowered with a 350 but with a new SS prop she is running much better. The prop that came with the boat was way too small. I figured that out after owning her for 14 years lol. The only thing I need fixed is a small oil leak from the front.
 
thanks. That was/is my understanding too. It just didn't seem to be charging much if anything at all. In general terms, with a 4kw generator about how long would expect to have to run it to recharge the battery? Maybe the batteries are in due for replacement?
 
Hello,
I bought a bravo 3 lower unit(got a good deal on it) to change out my Bravo 2. Heard good things about Bravo 3s handling and planing. Since I only boat in fresh water and trailered 99% of the down time, figured why not.
My outdrive ratio seems to be 2.00:1 according to SeaRay prop matrix. I am trying to figure out what size props to put on the bravo 3. The SeaRay prop matrix calls for 24 pitch from the factory. Hill marine recommended 4x4 22 pitch prop. I was wondering what anyone else is running here for those boats as far as Bravo 3s go. I have included the snip it of the prop matrix.
 

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I just went a SS prop and I went with the factory spec. I am pleased with the results. But I'm running a BII.
 
I did as well, I got my bravo 2 upgraded it to the same size stainless after aluminum prop blew the hub.
She runs well with fresh engine rebuild. 60gal of fuel, 20gal of water 3 adults and two kids I got 40mph, by gps on Lake Washington yesterday. I mainly got the bravo 3 lower for improved maneuverability and the decrease in planning time. Just trying to figure out what props to go with.
 
Hi, I am a newbie here and I purchased a 1998 Sundancer 270 in May 2017. I just noticed the water heater is leaking from the bottom. It has an Attwood 6 gallon, electric only but appears to have an inlet and outlet for running lines to the engine. When the water system is pressurized, a fairly decent stream is coming out into the bilge. Can I temporarily bypass the water heater so I can use the boat labor day weekend? Being in Florida and the fact we are keeping it in a boat slip at a hotel we don't really need hot water on the boat.I plan on either fixing or replacing, but would like to bypass the water heater for now and still have cold water. Any suggestions or tips are greatly appreciated.
 
Yes you can bypass it. Don't take it out without the bypass because you may sink...mine failed catastrophically but on land in the rack.
 
I figured I could but I can't seem to find any "how to" manuals on line or on youtube. Everything seems to be about bypassing for winterization, which I don't need to do in Florida. I just want to bypass the water heater so it doesn't leak while the water system is pressurized. I'm sure people remove/eliminate their water heaters but I just can't find any information on how to actually do it.
 
I'm guessing I can just plug the cold water line going into the water heater, therefore bypassing it and stopping it from leaking?
 
You have an in hose and an out hose. Both need to corked up or attached together.
 
DanW65 said:
Hi, I am a newbie here and I purchased a 1998 Sundancer 270 in May 2017. I just noticed the water heater is leaking from the bottom. It has an Attwood 6 gallon, electric only but appears to have an inlet and outlet for running lines to the engine. When the water system is pressurized, a fairly decent stream is coming out into the bilge. Can I temporarily bypass the water heater so I can use the boat labor day weekend? Being in Florida and the fact we are keeping it in a boat slip at a hotel we don't really need hot water on the boat.I plan on either fixing or replacing, but would like to bypass the water heater for now and still have cold water. Any suggestions or tips are greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...

FYI, this is the Mid-90's 270 thread. Your boat is a late 90's and the thread for it is here. http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/late-90s-270-sundancer-thread.1786/

There is also a history of the Sea Ray 270 number in the first post of this thread.

Welcome aboard,

MM
 
DanW65 said:
I'm guessing I can just plug the cold water line going into the water heater, therefore bypassing it and stopping it from leaking?
Click to expand...
Your water lines are probably blue(cold-in) and red(hot-out), hook those together and it will be by-passed. Two water supply lines and four adapters from the hardware store will do it. This also makes cold water come out both sides your water faucet.
 
Winch1995 said:
Yes you can bypass it. Don't take it out without the bypass because you may sink...mine failed catastrophically but on land in the rack.
Click to expand...
What failed on your boat? If the boats system failed there would no risk of sinking unless you were at a dock hooked to a continuous shore water source. If the engine heating loop was your failure it would also require a second failure of the hot water tank before there would be risk of sinking. In either case there would be bilge pumps discharging the excess water until they failed or batteries went dead.
 
The engine cooling water is hosed to the HW heater, in and out. My HWH rotted out internally so that the water from the engine was getting dumped into the bilge. Tech said that the bilge filled up in a matter of seconds.
 
Winch1995 said:
The engine cooling water is hosed to the HW heater, in and out. My HWH rotted out internally so that the water from the engine was getting dumped into the bilge. Tech said that the bilge filled up in a matter of seconds.
Click to expand...
Wow, that would require two failures and the same time, the loop inside the HWH and the HWH tank itself. Good that it went when it did.

Did you check your bilge pumps to make sure they're working?
 
Woody said:
What failed on your boat? If the boats system failed there would no risk of sinking unless you were at a dock hooked to a continuous shore water source. If the engine heating loop was your failure it would also require a second failure of the hot water tank before there would be risk of sinking. In either case there would be bilge pumps discharging the excess water until they failed or batteries went dead.
Click to expand...
The engine heating loop is not in place even though the water heater is equipped for it. It only heats by electricity. I am not sure what is leaking inside the water heater as I have not taken it apart yet. I just want to stop the water supply to the water heater for now to keep excess water from leaking into the bilge while the system is pressurized. I bought an inline 15mm shut off valve to put on the cold water going into the water heater and will have it in the off position. Hoping that is all that is necessary. It just came in today, will be installing it shortly.
 
Woody said:
Wow, that would require two failures and the same time, the loop inside the HWH and the HWH tank itself. Good that it went when it did.

Did you check your bilge pumps to make sure they're working?
Click to expand...
Both bilge pumps are working perfectly. One is new and I installed 2 new float switches.
 
Woody said:
Your water lines are probably blue(cold-in) and red(hot-out), hook those together and it will be by-passed. Two water supply lines and four adapters from the hardware store will do it. This also makes cold water come out both sides your water faucet.
Click to expand...
What if I just put a shut off valve on the cold water going in? Wouldn't I just have water at the cold side of the faucet only and nothing at the hot? I already bought the shut off valve. If I had thought of what you suggested I would have just bought the coupler and feed the cold line into the hot line and bypass the water heater that way. Oh well, too late now. I got the shut off valve and will try that. We are leaving tomorrow for our Labor Day vacation.
 
DanW65 said:
What if I just put a shut off valve on the cold water going in? Wouldn't I just have water at the cold side of the faucet only and nothing at the hot? I already bought the shut off valve. If I had thought of what you suggested I would have just bought the coupler and feed the cold line into the hot line and bypass the water heater that way. Oh well, too late now. I got the shut off valve and will try that. We are leaving tomorrow for our Labor Day vacation.
Click to expand...
Oh wait! I can still do that! I can use the shut off valve as a coupler.
 
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