Merc 6.2 Air Drain system - Winterization. Is it that easy?

[Vince_nj1]

I have 2006 320 with twin 6.2's. The engines have an air drain system that allows me to pump air into a valve on top of the engine using a bicycle pump which opens valves on the bottom on the engine and manifolds to drain the water out. The engine also has a hose with a quick connect that allows me to hook up a hose to flush the engine.

I bought the boat late last season and wasn't familiar with this system. I paid the marina $400 to winterize both engines. Now that I have learned a few more things, it appears that all I have to do is close the seacock, pump up this valve to drain the water and then add some antifreeze into the flush connection. Is that it? That entire process will take less than 20 minutes. It seems too good to be true. Am I missing something?

I have already added fuel stablizer and took the boat for a ride, so I think the only thing else I need to do is to fog the engines.

(I know I also need to winterize the AC, Generator, Head, and Water system.)

 

[Vince_nj1]

No answers?

 

[K-9]

:smt001 go to mercrusier.com and search the site and you will have the power to save money,welkome

No answers?

 

[Vince_nj1]

I have been on Mercruiser's website and have the PDF. I just want to confirm that it really is that simple. Seems to good to be true. It looks like I can winterize both engines in less than 1/2 hour. I just wanted to confirm that I can add antifreeze in to the flush hose and thats all I need to do.

 

[Go Aweigh2452]

Yes, it is that easy. You can also take the blue plugs out if you want but it is not required. I normally flush with saltaway after every trip in salt water (I trailer). I then use the air pump. Takes me less than a couple of minutes to pump it up and drain the system... Just remember to pop the air pressure or you will fill the bilge with water next time you run the engine... Seen it done and it was pretty funny... No, not me...

 

[MAKC]

Read my post below to make sure you don't miss anything on the 320. The pump drains the engines but it doesnt take care of the mufflers for the engines or the genny. The process isnt hard at all and its a LOT cheaper than having a yard do it. But i updated this checklist for the 320 last year and had NO problems when i did spring comissioning. Good luck!

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14009&highlight=Winterizing+tips

 

[Alex F]

Now that I have learned a few more things, it appears that all I have to do is close the seacock, pump up this valve to drain the water and then add some antifreeze into the flush connection. Is that it? That entire process will take less than 20 minutes. It seems too good to be true. Am I missing something?

Vince,
I don't have the air pump setup, I think b/c my engines are RWC. In anyu event, all is necessary to drain the water from the engines is by taking the bottom blue plug. However, the process is not that simple as you described above. Here's how I do it:

1. Run the engine supplying it with fresh water via open sea strainer (seacock closed). The engine needs to be wormed up until thermostat is open (160+ degrees).
2. When the temp is reached I shut the engine and drain the water by taking the blue plug at the bottom. When the water is out the plug goes back in.
3. While the engine warms up I'm getting my bucket with antifreeze ready with (6-7 gal of pink for each engine). As soon as I put the plug back in I start the engine and run antifreeze thru the system until the pink gets out of the exhausts. When I see pink going out I shut the engine and close the pink supply.

The process I mentioned does two things 1-flushes the engine with fresh water and 2-ensures that antifreeze get in to the entire engine (the big cyrculation loop).

Good luck,
Alex.

 

[Go Aweigh2452]

Vince,
I don't have the air pump setup, I think b/c my engines are RWC. In anyu event, all is necessary to drain the water from the engines is by taking the bottom blue plug. However, the process is not that simple as you described above. Here's how I do it:

1. Run the engine supplying it with fresh water via open sea strainer (seacock closed). The engine needs to be wormed up until thermostat is open (160+ degrees).
2. When the temp is reached I shut the engine and drain the water by taking the blue plug at the bottom. When the water is out the plug goes back in.
3. While the engine warms up I'm getting my bucket with antifreeze ready with (6-7 gal of pink for each engine). As soon as I put the plug back in I start the engine and run antifreeze thru the system until the pink gets out of the exhausts. When I see pink going out I shut the engine and close the pink supply.

The process I mentioned does two things 1-flushes the engine with fresh water and 2-ensures that antifreeze get in to the entire engine (the big cyrculation loop).

Good luck,
Alex.

Alex, Vince has a manual that describes how to use the air system. It is specifically designed to empty the entire engine of raw water. Since you have RWC, your method is a waste of $ and time for Vince & others with the air system. Vince can open the blue plugs if he wants but the amount of standing water will not damage any internal engine components. But the recommended system is to open the blue plugs and keep the system pressurized over the storage time. Your system is fine for FWC systems.


Here is a pdf of how to do the draining...
http://www.mercurymarine.com/_media...nboard-models/Non-EC/90-864841070-Storage.pdf

 

[Alex F]

Alex, Vince has a manual that describes how to use the air system. It is specifically designed to empty the entire engine of raw water. Since you have RWC, your method is a waste of $ and time for Vince & others with the air system. Vince can open the blue plugs if he wants but the amount of standing water will not damage any internal engine components. But the recommended system is to open the blue plugs and keep the system pressurized over the storage time. Your system is fine for FWC systems.

Your last statment confused me "Your system is fine for FWC systems". I have Raw Water Cooled system, not Fresh Water Cooled. As with anything, there're dosen ways to skin the cat, but I think the most critical part is to prevent engine from rust or corrosion. Thus, if anyone choose methods to just drain the system and don't run antifreeze thru it, it's critical to flush the entire engine with fresh water before draining and storing. As you know, the biggest threat to the engine is not the salt water, but the salt remaining in the engine when it's dry. So, for anyone boating other than in fresh waters this is critical step, IMO.