Mechanic in Colorado?

[hpcrank]

Greetings

I have a 1981 260 Sundancer with a Mercruiser 454, Merctrans MCM-E transmission and a TR outdrive. The outdrive will not go full up and boat has a few other issues. I live near Colorado Springs, Colorado ( about 100 miles south of Denver), does anyone know of a marina or boat mechanic in this area that will work on this boat, I'm willing to travel 200 miles +/-? I have an actual Mercruiser Factory Shop Manual for the boat that covers the hydraulics as well as the transmission and outdrive.

I probably should give up on this boat but besides already being into it somewhere north of $10,000. it has taken on a sentimental value as I was fixing it up for my wife, she got one ride and then died fighting ovarian cancer. She didn't give up so I guess I won't either.

VR.
Hank

 

[slax-a-lot]

I have never used them but I do have a friend that does. Seems that he likes them. Great Lakes Marine Littleton, CO

 

[ColoSR]

Hank, I would give the guys at Best Marine a call. They have the best reputation in Denver, and they have always done good work on my boat. The owners are Rick and Layne, their number is 303.423.3311

 

[DaveKamp]

Sorry to hear the story of your wife, Hank... ;-(

On your TR... I've seen them many ways... your trim control SHOULD be one of the common 3-button setups, or perhaps it's been changed to a throttle-handle trim...

On most of these, there's two functions... one is TRIM, the other is TILT. They're the same with respect of how the hydraulics works, but TRIMMING is the first 10-15 degrees or so, from full down, upward, and it's operated by just one but operated by just one button to trim up, the other to trim down. Once you get to that upper stop point, the wiring requires either TWO buttons held to go up more, or a hand-button AND the throttle rocker-switch up.

This limitation is set by a position switch that is either on the gimbal pivots (R/MR drives used a limit switch on one side, and a sending-unit for trim gauge on the other) or with a roller-switch up at the top (R/MR, and I believe some TRS used them too)... they were usually tucked up under the top of the gimbal) then there was also a mechanical sliding potentiometer on bellows that was sometimes mounted on the transom exterior, and sometimes it was mounted INSIDE the transom. To make it even MORE confusing, they had some that consisted of a 'dummy' hydraulic cylinder plumbed in-series with the lift cylinders, where the piston would extend and lift a roller switch. They had a trim-sensor that worked same way.

Many of these were aftermarket-sourced, and depending on who worked on yours over the years, it's hard to say WHAT they did... but if your unit will TRIM up to a certain point, then go no further, it will either 1) just shut off or 2) stall or ventilate the hydraulic pump.

The obvious, which I'm certain you've already considered, is low oil level in the EHU... it'll spin way up and gurgle if it's low... But the second (stall) means it's hydraulically or physically obstructed... something with either the rams, gimbal, or one of the wacky in-plumbing sensors I noted (they're called 'dummy' cylinders because they actually have a duplex pressure-relief valve bypassing 'em, and if that dupe-check is seized, it'll stop flow once the dummy cyl has topped or bottomed).

Or someone's got the wiring wrong... which does happen. There's lots of stuff to get tangled in back there, look out for those danged hose clamps and cotter keys.

 

[hpcrank]

I have never used them but I do have a friend that does. Seems that he likes them. Great Lakes Marine Littleton, CO

Thanks!

 

[hpcrank]

Sorry to hear the story of your wife, Hank... ;-(

On your TR... I've seen them many ways... your trim control SHOULD be one of the common 3-button setups, or perhaps it's been changed to a throttle-handle trim...

On most of these, there's two functions... one is TRIM, the other is TILT. They're the same with respect of how the hydraulics works, but TRIMMING is the first 10-15 degrees or so, from full down, upward, and it's operated by just one but operated by just one button to trim up, the other to trim down. Once you get to that upper stop point, the wiring requires either TWO buttons held to go up more, or a hand-button AND the throttle rocker-switch up.

This limitation is set by a position switch that is either on the gimbal pivots (R/MR drives used a limit switch on one side, and a sending-unit for trim gauge on the other) or with a roller-switch up at the top (R/MR, and I believe some TRS used them too)... they were usually tucked up under the top of the gimbal) then there was also a mechanical sliding potentiometer on bellows that was sometimes mounted on the transom exterior, and sometimes it was mounted INSIDE the transom. To make it even MORE confusing, they had some that consisted of a 'dummy' hydraulic cylinder plumbed in-series with the lift cylinders, where the piston would extend and lift a roller switch. They had a trim-sensor that worked same way.

Many of these were aftermarket-sourced, and depending on who worked on yours over the years, it's hard to say WHAT they did... but if your unit will TRIM up to a certain point, then go no further, it will either 1) just shut off or 2) stall or ventilate the hydraulic pump.

The obvious, which I'm certain you've already considered, is low oil level in the EHU... it'll spin way up and gurgle if it's low... But the second (stall) means it's hydraulically or physically obstructed... something with either the rams, gimbal, or one of the wacky in-plumbing sensors I noted (they're called 'dummy' cylinders because they actually have a duplex pressure-relief valve bypassing 'em, and if that dupe-check is seized, it'll stop flow once the dummy cyl has topped or bottomed).

Or someone's got the wiring wrong... which does happen. There's lots of stuff to get tangled in back there, look out for those danged hose clamps and cotter keys.

Wow you have got a great deal more experience in this area than do I, I can make a sprint car go fast but this my first boat experience beyond my 1957 Johnson 35 hp. outboard. In your opinion should a modern boat mechanic shop be able to work on this boat given I have an actual Mercruiser "Factory" shop manual that covers this drive set up in detail?

 

[hpcrank]

Hank, I would give the guys at Best Marine a call. They have the best reputation in Denver, and they have always done good work on my boat. The owners are Rick and Layne, their number is 303.423.3311

 

[hpcrank]

Thank you much.

hpcrank

 

[techmitch]

Sorry to hear the story of your wife, Hank... ;-(

On your TR... I've seen them many ways... your trim control SHOULD be one of the common 3-button setups, or perhaps it's been changed to a throttle-handle trim...

On most of these, there's two functions... one is TRIM, the other is TILT. They're the same with respect of how the hydraulics works, but TRIMMING is the first 10-15 degrees or so, from full down, upward, and it's operated by just one but operated by just one button to trim up, the other to trim down. Once you get to that upper stop point, the wiring requires either TWO buttons held to go up more, or a hand-button AND the throttle rocker-switch up.

This limitation is set by a position switch that is either on the gimbal pivots (R/MR drives used a limit switch on one side, and a sending-unit for trim gauge on the other) or with a roller-switch up at the top (R/MR, and I believe some TRS used them too)... they were usually tucked up under the top of the gimbal) then there was also a mechanical sliding potentiometer on bellows that was sometimes mounted on the transom exterior, and sometimes it was mounted INSIDE the transom. To make it even MORE confusing, they had some that consisted of a 'dummy' hydraulic cylinder plumbed in-series with the lift cylinders, where the piston would extend and lift a roller switch. They had a trim-sensor that worked same way.

Many of these were aftermarket-sourced, and depending on who worked on yours over the years, it's hard to say WHAT they did... but if your unit will TRIM up to a certain point, then go no further, it will either 1) just shut off or 2) stall or ventilate the hydraulic pump.

The obvious, which I'm certain you've already considered, is low oil level in the EHU... it'll spin way up and gurgle if it's low... But the second (stall) means it's hydraulically or physically obstructed... something with either the rams, gimbal, or one of the wacky in-plumbing sensors I noted (they're called 'dummy' cylinders because they actually have a duplex pressure-relief valve bypassing 'em, and if that dupe-check is seized, it'll stop flow once the dummy cyl has topped or bottomed).

Or someone's got the wiring wrong... which does happen. There's lots of stuff to get tangled in back there, look out for those danged hose clamps and cotter keys.

Hey Dave, ask hpcrank about his generator set up.

Better yet, here ya go.
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/a-260-sundancer-with-6-5-kw-gen-set-see-pics.96332/

 

[DaveKamp]

Wow you have got a great deal more experience in this area than do I, I can make a sprint car go fast but this my first boat experience beyond my 1957 Johnson 35 hp. outboard. In your opinion should a modern boat mechanic shop be able to work on this boat given I have an actual Mercruiser "Factory" shop manual that covers this drive set up in detail?

Any proper marine mechanic SHOULD have, in his library, or by some other access, the factory shop manuals for the entire MerCruiser line, including your drive system. I have several... my FIRST set, is all on microfiche, my second is on paper copy. My THIRD set is in PDF, and that's the set I like best... I click to the pages I need, and hit PRINT.

Always, Always Always... keep in mind that a boat is not a car or truck, an airplane is not a boat, and a car is not an airplane. The most terrible things happen when someone who works on cars, looks at an I/O or inboard boat, and sees a car. They make electrical repairs on it as if it's a car, they plumb it as if it's a car, they replace parts as if it's a car.

Cars don't have bilges, don't need very careful ventilation management. They don't naturally want to become explosive, incendiary devices that will incinerate or poison you while you sleep.

You know how, in the movies, a guy gets in a car, turns the key, and it blows up?
Boats do that naturally... without 'bad guys' planting bombs. one teacup of gasoline, well-evaporated in a bilge, is the same as dropping five sticks of dynamite in.

 

[missnmountains]

I lived in Highlands Ranch for 30 years. Great Lakes Marine worked on our boats numerous times. I also recommend them.

Ken

 

[hpcrank]

I have never used them but I do have a friend that does. Seems that he likes them. Great Lakes Marine Littleton, CO

Hi, I gave them a call and they don't work on anything older than a 1985 but they referred me to a shop that does, I'll let you know how that works out.

Thanks again
hpcrank