Measure twice cut once refrigerator and freezer replacement

[ttmott]

The Subzero refrigerator which was original on the 2006 52 Sedan Bridge finally gave up leaving only the freezer next to it operational. Fix it or replace it? There always have been challenges storing food and beverages in the two Subzero units; they were simply difficult to load up due to the box configuration inside. This isn't a complaint but for long cruising trips they had some shortfalls. So comes time to make a decision repair or replace as a hole developed in the evaporator and the refrigerant escaped. Parts for the repair were backordered with an indeterminant availability. I replaced the Norcold refrigerator on my 400DA Sundancer with a Vitrifrigo and really liked the Vitrifrigo's quality and performance. So in looking at the Vitrifrigo products I noticed a great innovation where their drawer units can be individually configured as refrigeration and/or freezer units (refrigerator/freezer, refrigerator/refrigerator, or freezer/freezer). So, I ordered two of the drawer units after verifying, I thought, all of the dimensions to confirm the Vitrifrigo will fit where the Subzero are. Not quite. I had confirmed that the width in the existing opening needed to be enlarged 1/8-inch on each side but failed to accomodate for the 1-inch flange on the trim where in fact there was only 1/2-inch on the cabinet edges available for the flange to fit over. Evidenced in the second photobelow. Of course I already have the Vitrifrigo units; ordered in January and received three days ago.
Well, what to do now?

 

[ttmott]

On to the Vitrifrigo drawer unit evaluation for fit -
I've got them in the shop up and running to verify they work before I install -
I think we can fit double what we could fit in the Subzero in the Vitrifrigo units simply due to the better utility of the drawers. The overall quality is very good, in fact, excellent and on par with the Subzero.
What is interesting about these is they operate on 12 or 24 VDC and are provided with a power supply to operate on either 230 VAC 50HZ european or 115 VAC 60HZ US. This is going to work nicely with the lithium battery conversion to be done next year.
Anyhow, the openings will fit the new Vitrifrigo boxes but the trim flanges and the limitation of the cabinet to cabinet width reveals I'm a bit too narrow; like almost two inches too narrow. So, if I overlap the inside flanges which gains a full inch and either remove or cut down the outside flanges to 3/8-inch from 1 inch. Or, remove the outer flanges and still overlap but to a much less extent and butt the units to the cabinet edge which is how the Subzero units are installed. Still in the thinking stage but decision later today....

 

[markrsimon]

Is there any other mounting utilized aside from the 4 screws in the trim flange? Wondering if you remove/replace the trim flange?

Do you have a before pic? Trying to understand/visualize how the added width impacts the cabinetry.

 

[Fill Ess]

I think I follow what you're saying/asking ....

Any chance the two outer flanges could be bent out at 90 degrees using some kind of portable brake -- then fastened on the side? Or if you've got room on the top, you could do only a top mount like a dishwasher?

For the one of the left, could you cut a vertical slot with a narrow router bit or think kerf rotary blade and then slip the flange in there?

 

[ttmott]

Is there any other mounting utilized aside from the 4 screws in the trim flange? Wondering if you remove/replace the trim flange?

Do you have a before pic? Trying to understand/visualize how the added width impacts the cabinetry.

I think I follow what you're saying/asking ....

Any chance the two outer flanges could be bent out at 90 degrees using some kind of portable brake -- then fastened on the side? Or if you've got room on the top, you could do only a top mount like a dishwasher?

For the one of the left, could you cut a vertical slot with a narrow router bit or think kerf rotary blade and then slip the flange in there?

Inside of the box are 4 locations to screw through the sides; they provide plugs for those holes. Attaching through the sides will require cabinet structure next to the boxes. I'll need to make up a new center divider that is wider than the 1/2-inch one existing.
Trimming the flange is probably the answer - I'm going to take them to our local sheetmetal fabricator to see if they can shear some of the flange (like around 1/2" each side) off.
But, I really liked the "slotting" idea! Problem is then how to angle the units in as the flange is attached to the box.

 

[hughespat57]

@ttmott
Could you shear the inner flange off completely and bolt the two units together?

 

[ttmott]

@ttmott
Could you shear the inner flange off completely and bolt the two units together?

Another good idea but there is countertop / range support structure in the middle. I looked at putting some structural angle steel beam to replace that "post" but not enough room between the underside and top of the refrigeration units. Also the condenser fan exhausts from the sides of the unit so probably best to have them separated.

 

[km1125]

When the two units are side-by-side, will the condensor of the left unit (when viewed from front) be exhausting into the power supply of the unit on the right?

With the old units, was there any part of the "center support structure" visible between the two old flanges?

 

[ttmott]

When the two units are side-by-side, will the condensor of the left unit (when viewed from front) be exhausting into the power supply of the unit on the right?

With the old units, was there any part of the "center support structure" visible between the two old flanges?

The units looking from the fronts moves air from left to right. It appears most important to have the air moving in from the left side and that side rather clear. The fan can exhaust air from the back as well as the right side.
The Subzero units draw and exhaust air from the front bottoms.
On the old units the center post was painted black and recessed somewhat back. You could see it with the doors open.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

Lots of good outside the box suggestions here.

Numerous options with trim once the flange issue is resolved, and the units are fastened down securely.

Does not have to be stainless, but could be some other material including Formica, laminate, flooring trim or perhaps pick up the color of the countertops or some other interior item that will lend itself for reasonable removal if/when that becomes necessary.

RWS

 

[km1125]

The units looking from the fronts moves air from left to right. It appears most important to have the air moving in from the left side and that side rather clear. The fan can exhaust air from the back as well as the right side.
The Subzero units draw and exhaust air from the front bottoms.
On the old units the center post was painted black and recessed somewhat back. You could see it with the doors open.

How/where does the right unit get it's air from the left side? From the (partially heated) are from the left unit? Or is there another source of air into the compartment? I ran into a similar "left in, right exhaust" issue when mounting two Cisco switches in adjacent equipment racks. Didn't take long to notice #2 was always running consistently hotter than #1. Ended up having to move one up in the racks.

On the flange thing... was wondering (as maybe someone earlier) if removing the existing flanges and using the side holes to mount the units would be better, then have a frame made of some 1/2" angle stock that would just screw in after the unit were installed?

 

[ttmott]

How/where does the right unit get it's air from the left side? From the (partially heated) are from the left unit? Or is there another source of air into the compartment? I ran into a similar "left in, right exhaust" issue when mounting two Cisco switches in adjacent equipment racks. Didn't take long to notice #2 was always running consistently hotter than #1. Ended up having to move one up in the racks.

On the flange thing... was wondering (as maybe someone earlier) if removing the existing flanges and using the side holes to mount the units would be better, then have a frame made of some 1/2" angle stock that would just screw in after the unit were installed?

Here is a pic of the condenser coil on the side.
So, it looks like I'll have to completely remove the left trim on the left unit and right trim on the right unit. The opening is 49 7/16 inches and the units with the center flanges overlapped combined is 49 1/2 inches. This will put the sides of the units tight to the existing cabinet sides which is good for attachments. I'll then have to make up a new center post so there is minimal clearance (looks to be 1 1/8 inches thick) so both the countertop is supported and the units can be attached. The only thing that will look possibly odd to the trained eye is the trim flanges overlapping in the middle. But it will all fit.
I will have to "excavate" some of the structure in the back of the openings in the cabinets so cooling air isn't compromised. There is plenty of unused space to do that.

 

[ttmott]

Lots of good outside the box suggestions here.

Numerous options with trim once the flange issue is resolved, and the units are fastened down securely.

Does not have to be stainless, but could be some other material including Formica, laminate, flooring trim or perhaps pick up the color of the countertops or some other interior item that will lend itself for reasonable removal if/when that becomes necessary.

RWS

Agree. The existing cabinet extensions which are 1/2 inch are already finished with the cabinet material. So, as long as any gap is minimal there probably is no real need for the stainless trim there. The unit drawers are flush with the cabinet face; I'm hoping that it will be fine.

 

[b_arrington]

The manual I just looked up says there are plugs inside the units that can be removed, and you can drive a screw through the side to secure it to the cabinet.

Manual here, page 51: https://www.vitrifrigo.com/downloads/4980/450/171212-04.pdf

Perhaps remove the flanges that are too large, use the side mount option, and fabricate new decorative flanges out of another material.

 

[ttmott]

The manual I just looked up says there are plugs inside the units that can be removed, and you can drive a screw through the side to secure it to the cabinet.

Manual here, page 51: https://www.vitrifrigo.com/downloads/4980/450/171212-04.pdf

Perhaps remove the flanges that are too large, use the side mount option, and fabricate new decorative flanges out of another material.


View attachment 126125

I think the side mount as you show is the only suitable mounting. The four screw holes in the trim flanges would not be structurally sound on a boat. The Subzero units were screwed down to the floor from the bases; they had no trim, only close tolerance to the cabinet edges. These Vitfrifrigo units have no opening or access underneath to fasten to the floor.

 

[Saverio]

any way you can salvage the old mounting brackets and ditch the new ones or remove the flange

 

[ttmott]

any way you can salvage the old mounting brackets and ditch the new ones or remove the flange

There were no mounting brackets; The old units were simply screwed to the floor.
I've removed the flanges from the sides where the units abut the cabinets. The drawers will be flush to the cabinet finish on the sides and the stainless trim will be over the tops and in between the units which will look good.

 

[Saverio]

There were no mounting brackets; The old units were simply screwed to the floor.
I've removed the flanges from the sides where the units abut the cabinets. The drawers will be flush to the cabinet finish on the sides and the stainless trim will be over the tops and in between the units which will look good.View attachment 126273

Great
so glad to hear you found a solution

 

[ttmott]

Great
so glad to hear you found a solution

It ain't over yet.

 

[spikedaddy99]

Please take lots of pics Tom.