Hey guys I just got a 1988 sea ray with a 4.3 v6. The boat was givin to me because of some engine problems but I got it going. Here is the problem, I know nothing about boats and can't figure out how to check the oil in the outdrive unit. I see a small screw plug at the very bottom and one at the top that says vent. I'm guessing the one at the top that says vent is the fill but how do I know how much to put in it? If I were to fill it till it ran out of the hole that seems like a lot of oil. Is this how I do it though? thanks in advance for anybody that can help me with this..
Major newbe here. checking oil in outdrive
- Thread starter mvvette97
- Start date
SevenTeas
New Member
Open the 'vent' screw. Remove the bottom screw and drain the oil. Then fill from the bottom hole with a pump when it starts to come out of the vent hole.
Put screws back in and your GTG.
Inspect old oil carefully for water intrusion, indicates failing seals, and metal shavings, indicating more serious problems.
Put screws back in and your GTG.
Inspect old oil carefully for water intrusion, indicates failing seals, and metal shavings, indicating more serious problems.
wish2fish
Active Member
you need to replace the fluid. should be done every year anyway.
just to be clear. when the oil comes out vent hole as stated above replace the vent hole screw and then remove the pump from the bottom screw. Try to do this quickly to minimize leakage.
Inspect for water in oil.
just to be clear. when the oil comes out vent hole as stated above replace the vent hole screw and then remove the pump from the bottom screw. Try to do this quickly to minimize leakage.
Inspect for water in oil.
- Nov 12, 2006
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- 1999 Sea Ray 330DA
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Cast iron block w 4-bolt mains
Where's the smart guy?
Well, us dumb guys will try to help you.
If you try to fill from the top, you will get air bubbles. The oil won't completely fill the drive which will cause gear or bearing failure. There's only one small hole between the upper and lower units. Oil won't flow down and fill the lower unit since it'll be air-locked. It must be filled from below with the rising oil level displacing air from the top.
If you have an internal reservoir for drive oil, after the drive is full, I think you are supposed to cap the vent and pump in a little more until it appears in the container. The fill the container to the recommended level. I didn't have one of those when I had a sterndrive boat, so one of the guys who does, or the only smart guy here who worked for a marina for 18 year will have to contribute.
Best regards,
Frank
Well, us dumb guys will try to help you.
If you try to fill from the top, you will get air bubbles. The oil won't completely fill the drive which will cause gear or bearing failure. There's only one small hole between the upper and lower units. Oil won't flow down and fill the lower unit since it'll be air-locked. It must be filled from below with the rising oil level displacing air from the top.
If you have an internal reservoir for drive oil, after the drive is full, I think you are supposed to cap the vent and pump in a little more until it appears in the container. The fill the container to the recommended level. I didn't have one of those when I had a sterndrive boat, so one of the guys who does, or the only smart guy here who worked for a marina for 18 year will have to contribute.
Best regards,
Frank
Henry Boyd
Well-Known Member
- Apr 24, 2007
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- ‘09 Sabre 38 Hardtop Express “Serenity”
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On the BIII, the procedure is to pump a little more with the top plug fitted.
Also the type of oil used is critical. If you have a Bravo drive (I, II, or III), you must use the synthetic High Performance gear lube.
The only other thing I would add is to remove and discard the old washers for the plugs and replace with new.
Henry
Also the type of oil used is critical. If you have a Bravo drive (I, II, or III), you must use the synthetic High Performance gear lube.
The only other thing I would add is to remove and discard the old washers for the plugs and replace with new.
Henry
wish2fish
Active Member
well, in a 1988 i don't think you would have a Bravo III!!!
there should be a serial number on it.
there should be a serial number on it.
terminaldegree
New Member
I'm pretty sure that is an alpha 1, from the period when sea ray reapainted the outdrives in their own "livery". As you can see, it looks like the lower half of the drive has been replaced at some point.
Spookeay
New Member
- Oct 27, 2009
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No one told him, make sure the drive is in the down -0- position. :wow:
Buy the pump at Wal-Mart. It's worth every penny. It holds about 1.5 L of oil,,,, there about.
Get 2 bottles I should say. Also Once it's full put the top plug back in before you remove the base pump plug. It will cause a vacuum in the drive that will keep the lube from just dumping out when you get set to switch the pump line for the plug. :thumbsup:
Buy the pump at Wal-Mart. It's worth every penny. It holds about 1.5 L of oil,,,, there about.
Get 2 bottles I should say. Also Once it's full put the top plug back in before you remove the base pump plug. It will cause a vacuum in the drive that will keep the lube from just dumping out when you get set to switch the pump line for the plug. :thumbsup:
Henry Boyd
Well-Known Member
- Apr 24, 2007
- 6,014
- Boat Info
- ‘09 Sabre 38 Hardtop Express “Serenity”
- Engines
- Volvo D6 w/IPS450 Pods
You are right, been zinged by nitpickers in the past when I haven't covered every single possibility (even the implausible ones).
Henry
