Looking for some advice

A few suggestions:

1. Consider replacing the water pump impeller, unless you know for certain it was replaced within the past two years.
2. Talk to people who keep their boats wet slipped at the location where you will, to identify what metal you want for the sacrificial anodes (aluminum, magnesium, or zinc).
3. Check that the MerCathode system is working, or if you don't have one consider adding that to the boat.
4. Make sure that all of the continuity wires are connected on the outdrive, and if there is any question buy a ground wire continuity kit and install them, as they have a tendency to break off and sometimes the mechanics don't bother with them. https://www.michiganmotorz.com/mercruiser-continuity-circuit-kit
5. Many people consider Navalloy to be the highest quality sacrifical anodes. https://performancemetals.com/collections/mercrusier-sterndrive-anodes

I'm sure others will have more suggestions, but hope these help.

 

I use an electric pump on the oil. Had a small elect pump for years that I pumped oil into a bucket. It crapped out so I bought a west marine unit with the pump on the top of the bucket. Works well, but it’s top heavy so you need to be careful or you’ll spill everything.

No need for synthetic. Not sure it was even around in the 80s.

I’d use the quicksilver/ mercury oil filters as they are OEM. Or the NAPA gold.

Fresh water Ohio I’d go with magnesium anodes from boat zincs.

 

Steve,
91 250DA, same engine outdrive. You came right place for advice.
Listen to these guys. They know stuff.
Good luck.

 

This is the pump I use. It has forward and reverse so I can pump it from the engine into the bucket, then from the bucket to the container I haul it in. It’s very nice, cost a little more than the other model, but it’s worth it in my opinion. It has the brass metal end on the motor
https://marinepartssource.com/heavy-duty-porta-quick-oil-changer-12v-jabsco-17800-2000/

 

Agree with all the replies. I just sold my oil extractor, like @Golfman25 since I have reverso now. Agree to basic oil and boatzincs.com. Napa sells filters

 

The bucket is def too heavy, drive me crazy. I ended up putting it in a milk crate, problem solved

 

+1 on the 12v pump and the milk crate as @Chris-380 said.

With regard to letting the oil sit in the engine over the winter, that is a bad idea. There are acids and the like that get in the oil and letting that sit in the engine over the winter is not a good idea.

With that year engine, I would only put in 15-40 shell rotella. Had great success with that in mine over the years, when I had the 340. Crusader called for straight 40 back then.

 

Completely agree with Sky. I use straight 30 Rottela

 

Why do Marina's change all the oils before winterizing the boat at the yard , hundreds of them and I have done that for the last 20 years

 

Sounds like the boat is already on the hard and winterized. I think he’ll be fine with an oil change in the spring. Doesn’t really have a choice so don’t panic him.

 

My oil engine oil and now drive oil we're just changed prior to winterization why would they do that if I had to redo it in the spring

 

All engine oil should be changed in the fall before they are winterized. Drive/Transmission can be in the spring.

 

I understood that when I posted. I was just clarifying when the oil should be changed and why. But that is funny, wasn't trying to panic anyone.

 

Acid in the oil? That's like an old wives tale isn't it?
So the acid is eating your bearings every time you turn your engine off during the season?

 

I always done it before winter, I'm with scofflaw,

 

You should change it so it doesn't sit with acids and moisture in it. Always before winter

 

It's more like contaminates (carbon, oxidation etc.) that strip down the integrity of the base oil and can act like a mild acid. I am speaking from a two stroke diesel perspective, but the same exist's for all engines. It's not a wives tale, it's real. But you need to understand it isn't fast acting, but it does exist and will shorten the life of your engine.