Looking for some advice

Discussion in 'General Maintenance/Repair Questions' started by Steve Cellar, Nov 26, 2022.

  1. Steve Cellar

    Steve Cellar New Member

    15
    May 27, 2022
    Ashland, Ohio
    1989 Sundancer 250 da
    7.4L Mercruiser with Bravo 1 outdrive
    Not my first boat, but first "older" boat. I have an 89 Sea Ray Sundancer 250 DA. It has a Mercuiser 7.4 w/ Bravo 1 out-drive. I purchased the boat this past year, but have been restoring it cosmetically in a few areas and generally cleaning it up. It was not in the water this year except for a water test, but now winterized (I live in Ohio). In the spring I'm planning on changing the oil and filter, plugs, lower unit oil, and anodes to start with. Gonna buy the necessary tools and supplies over the winter so I'm ready.
    The gentleman I purchased the boat from was a mechanic and he did a lot of the general maintenance himself on the boat. The boat currently runs great and starts easy...I just want to keep it that way.
    I'm curious:
    - what type of oil evacuator you guys use as I've seen all types and read good and bad about most of them. Hand pump vs. battery.....brand..cost, experience....etc.
    - should I use a 25w-40 synthetic, or no need?
    - any advise on filter
    - what brand of plugs to use
    Up to this point I was going to get the anodes from BoatZincs unless someone has a better suggestion. The current anodes are basically gone. I'm third owner of the boat. The guy I bought it from trailered it every time, but I'll be water slipping boat.
    Thanks for any input.
    Steve
     
    Nater Potater likes this.
  2. lawndoctor

    lawndoctor Active Member

    612
    Jun 5, 2008
    Baltimore & Philadelphia
    2014 Princess 56 Fly & 2002 Sea Ray 225 Weekender
    MAN R6 800s & Bravo III 5.0L
    A few suggestions:

    1. Consider replacing the water pump impeller, unless you know for certain it was replaced within the past two years.
    2. Talk to people who keep their boats wet slipped at the location where you will, to identify what metal you want for the sacrificial anodes (aluminum, magnesium, or zinc).
    3. Check that the MerCathode system is working, or if you don't have one consider adding that to the boat.
    4. Make sure that all of the continuity wires are connected on the outdrive, and if there is any question buy a ground wire continuity kit and install them, as they have a tendency to break off and sometimes the mechanics don't bother with them. https://www.michiganmotorz.com/mercruiser-continuity-circuit-kit
    5. Many people consider Navalloy to be the highest quality sacrifical anodes. https://performancemetals.com/collections/mercrusier-sterndrive-anodes

    I'm sure others will have more suggestions, but hope these help.
     
    techmitch likes this.
  3. Golfman25

    Golfman25 Well-Known Member

    Sep 12, 2009
    IL
    1998 370 Sundancer
    7.4 MPI
    I use an electric pump on the oil. Had a small elect pump for years that I pumped oil into a bucket. It crapped out so I bought a west marine unit with the pump on the top of the bucket. Works well, but it’s top heavy so you need to be careful or you’ll spill everything.

    No need for synthetic. Not sure it was even around in the 80s.

    I’d use the quicksilver/ mercury oil filters as they are OEM. Or the NAPA gold.

    Fresh water Ohio I’d go with magnesium anodes from boat zincs.
     
    mrsrobinson likes this.
  4. Pirate Lady

    Pirate Lady Well-Known Member

    Jun 2, 2020
    Chesapeake Bay, Middle River
    Sundancer 250 ‘91
    7.4 Bravo 1
    Steve,
    91 250DA, same engine outdrive. You came right place for advice.
    Listen to these guys. They know stuff.
    Good luck.
     
  5. Chris-380

    Chris-380 Well-Known Member

    Jan 20, 2019
    Pontoon Beach IL
    2000 380 Sundancer
    7.4L Horizon w/V drives
  6. mrsrobinson

    mrsrobinson Well-Known Member SILVER Sponsor

    Mar 9, 2006
    Virginia, USA
    2001 Sea Ray 380DA
    3126 purring CATs
    Agree with all the replies. I just sold my oil extractor, like @Golfman25 since I have reverso now. Agree to basic oil and boatzincs.com. Napa sells filters
     
    Nater Potater likes this.
  7. Chris-380

    Chris-380 Well-Known Member

    Jan 20, 2019
    Pontoon Beach IL
    2000 380 Sundancer
    7.4L Horizon w/V drives
    The bucket is def too heavy, drive me crazy. I ended up putting it in a milk crate, problem solved

     
  8. Steve Cellar

    Steve Cellar New Member

    15
    May 27, 2022
    Ashland, Ohio
    1989 Sundancer 250 da
    7.4L Mercruiser with Bravo 1 outdrive
    Thanks for the advice guys. I really appreciate these forums where you can cut through all the nonsense usually and get right to common sense, tried and true experience. Time to start ordering stuff...
    Thanks, Steve
     
    Nater Potater, blaster and Chris-380 like this.
  9. SKybolt

    SKybolt Well-Known Member SILVER Sponsor

    Nov 11, 2014
    Kent Narrows, MD
    460 EC
    Detroit 6v92TA
    (Low profile's)
    Alison Gears
    Westerbeke
    12.5kw Genset
    +1 on the 12v pump and the milk crate as @Chris-380 said.

    With regard to letting the oil sit in the engine over the winter, that is a bad idea. There are acids and the like that get in the oil and letting that sit in the engine over the winter is not a good idea.

    With that year engine, I would only put in 15-40 shell rotella. Had great success with that in mine over the years, when I had the 340. Crusader called for straight 40 back then.
     
  10. dwna1a

    dwna1a Well-Known Member PLATINUM Sponsor

    Apr 23, 2012
    James River
    88 Weekender 300 "Seahorse"
    Twins 350
    Completely agree with Sky. I use straight 30 Rottela
     
  11. Scott215

    Scott215 Active Member

    232
    Jun 4, 2022
    2006 215 weekender 5.0 mpi
    5.0 mpi alpha 1 gen 2
    Why do Marina's change all the oils before winterizing the boat at the yard , hundreds of them and I have done that for the last 20 years
     
  12. Golfman25

    Golfman25 Well-Known Member

    Sep 12, 2009
    IL
    1998 370 Sundancer
    7.4 MPI
    Sounds like the boat is already on the hard and winterized. I think he’ll be fine with an oil change in the spring. Doesn’t really have a choice so don’t panic him. :)
     
    mrsrobinson likes this.
  13. Scott215

    Scott215 Active Member

    232
    Jun 4, 2022
    2006 215 weekender 5.0 mpi
    5.0 mpi alpha 1 gen 2
    My oil engine oil and now drive oil we're just changed prior to winterization why would they do that if I had to redo it in the spring
     
  14. SKybolt

    SKybolt Well-Known Member SILVER Sponsor

    Nov 11, 2014
    Kent Narrows, MD
    460 EC
    Detroit 6v92TA
    (Low profile's)
    Alison Gears
    Westerbeke
    12.5kw Genset
    All engine oil should be changed in the fall before they are winterized. Drive/Transmission can be in the spring.
     
  15. SKybolt

    SKybolt Well-Known Member SILVER Sponsor

    Nov 11, 2014
    Kent Narrows, MD
    460 EC
    Detroit 6v92TA
    (Low profile's)
    Alison Gears
    Westerbeke
    12.5kw Genset
    I understood that when I posted. I was just clarifying when the oil should be changed and why. But that is funny, wasn't trying to panic anyone.
     
  16. scoflaw

    scoflaw Well-Known Member

    Aug 10, 2011
    cape cod mass, cape coral fl
    1999 Powerquest legend 260 sx 502 mag
    2005 Baja 242 islander 496
    502 mpi Bravo 1
    496 mag B1
    Acid in the oil? That's like an old wives tale isn't it?
    So the acid is eating your bearings every time you turn your engine off during the season?
     
    Chris-380 likes this.
  17. Scott215

    Scott215 Active Member

    232
    Jun 4, 2022
    2006 215 weekender 5.0 mpi
    5.0 mpi alpha 1 gen 2
    I always done it before winter, I'm with scofflaw,
     
  18. Scott215

    Scott215 Active Member

    232
    Jun 4, 2022
    2006 215 weekender 5.0 mpi
    5.0 mpi alpha 1 gen 2
    You should change it so it doesn't sit with acids and moisture in it. Always before winter
     
  19. SKybolt

    SKybolt Well-Known Member SILVER Sponsor

    Nov 11, 2014
    Kent Narrows, MD
    460 EC
    Detroit 6v92TA
    (Low profile's)
    Alison Gears
    Westerbeke
    12.5kw Genset
    It's more like contaminates (carbon, oxidation etc.) that strip down the integrity of the base oil and can act like a mild acid. I am speaking from a two stroke diesel perspective, but the same exist's for all engines. It's not a wives tale, it's real. But you need to understand it isn't fast acting, but it does exist and will shorten the life of your engine.
     
    techmitch and Nater Potater like this.
  20. Steve Cellar

    Steve Cellar New Member

    15
    May 27, 2022
    Ashland, Ohio
    1989 Sundancer 250 da
    7.4L Mercruiser with Bravo 1 outdrive
    Thanks guys. I appreciate the input....and no I'm not panicked. I've had other I/O's in the past and usually did change everything in the fall, but just not this year. If not the fall, for sure in the spring before everything got going again, but I've never had a problem with oil being left in over the winter...old or fresh. I never actually heard that or even considered that before, but it's food for thought. Hey, we all have different experience levels and stories. That's why we're on here. That's why I'M on here anyways. Always looking to glean new info.
     
    mrsrobinson and Chris-380 like this.

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