location of fuel supply valve and fuel filter on Merc 8.1 DTS

This is only a guess but I think the solenoid valve came into play to eliminate the anti-syphon valve at the tank feed.
fuel injection might have something to do with it. If you think the solenoid valve is the issue ,remove it and make a fuel manifold with a manual valve to test the theory of fuel starvation.
everything before the pump is the suction side , pressurized fuel is only at the cf pump and fuel rail
 
Bt Doctur said:
This is only a guess but I think the solenoid valve came into play to eliminate the anti-syphon valve at the tank feed.
fuel injection might have something to do with it. If you think the solenoid valve is the issue ,remove it and make a fuel manifold with a manual valve to test the theory of fuel starvation.
everything before the pump is the suction side , pressurized fuel is only at the cf pump and fuel rail
Click to expand...

You probably didn't read the whole thread, but he can't get it to shut off, so when he opens the module ,fuel is spilling over
 
so the learning curve continues... turns out that what I thought was a fuel supply valve coming from tank is only a solenoid valve that is adjusted for fuel flow and does not shut off the fuel flow. The mechanic disconnected the fuel supply at the other end of the hose from the tank to the fuel module. Now I am patiently waiting to see if the models can be cleaned up or if they are in need of replacement... see photos below of the corrosion. The diagnosis from the mechanic was that they overheated and would turn off the engines, as they are designed to do, due to blockage of the salt water cooling. I am investing in the freshwater flushing system asap after seeing this. Also waiting on results to see how much if any water I have in the fuel. IMG_4817.jpgIMG_4818.jpg
 
Last edited:
Just saw the modules opened up, they are in a state of disrepair and need to be replaced... expensive... at least the new ones are the updated version of the cool fuel modules.
 
One of mine had to be replaced due to the corrosion in the same place as yours - but never affected the running of the motor. Cost was over a boat dollar.

What fresh water flushing system are you considering?
 
$959 per module plus labor and tax, I figure $2500 USD. Cleaning them out would be temp fix that would had eventually lead to a breakdown and replacement. The units looked really poor inside and its a tough pill to swallow however we at least have peace of mind now that this issue is "solved". I am looking at installing the salt away flush system, a friend of mine already gave me a couple of the valves now just need to get them in there.
 
Greg
If you have some time, give this thread a read. My engines are same year as yours. I went through all this crap, took a lot of pix and learned a lot. I didn't have any engine issues since my work was was largely proactive. CF3 is a disaster and you are doing the right thing replacing the entire unit.

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/66600-Replacing-Cool-Fuel-III?highlight=
 
Ron,

Just read through your thread, thanks for sharing that, very insightful. I went by my mechanics shop yesterday as he wanted me to see why we are replacing them, he gave me a metal wire and asked me to try to drive it through the modules, it barely inserted and was met with a gritty resistance. The plastic endcaps of the hoses were stuck in a disintegrated state inside the opening. He was however able to salvage the hoses for both modules and they seemed to have cleaned up quite well. Although it pains me to have all these "surprise" expenses into the boat I realize that it makes more sense to do things right and not cut corners, otherwise I'm just delaying the inevitable costs, if not adding to them. I am going to run the boat this weekend for the second time since we bought it, he wants me to open her up full throttle and run her for 5 minutes to see if we have even and consistent power to both engines. I'm nervous to do so but he told me to "grow a pair, what's the worst that can happen... you break down and we repair what would had broken down the road". Obviously he instructed me to use common sense, if something sounds, smells or reads irregular on gauges lay off and try to come back to the dock. When he has space in his shop next week we will replace all hoses (all of them are dry rotting as they are original since new) and do a full service of the engines along with adding salt away fuel flush systems. It looks like another $4k of work but after this I should only have regular scheduled maintenance to plan for as an expense.
 
This boat of yours is in an unusual state of disrepair for its age. Never seen an 8 year old hose with dry rot
 
scoflaw said:
This boat of yours is in an unusual state of disrepair for its age. Never seen an 8 year old hose with dry rot
Click to expand...

Although the hoses are not in dire need of replacement, as they are not leaking, I am replacing them as a preventative measure. I was told that Sea Ray buys huge reels of hoses "by the mile" and sometimes it would sit in the sun for up to a couple of years before used, putting the hoses potentially at 9-10 years of age. Also, it is important to consider that this boat sat up on a lift in the florida sun/heat for two years... it surveyed well but I knew I had to spend $20k to revive it. Look at the a/c i replaced yesterday...IMG_4828.jpg
 
All my hoses are preformed with part #'s on them, the don't come in reels. What was wrong with the AC unit besides the rusty pan? Never heard of fuel pumps shutting down by design cause they got too hot. A solenoid for adjusting fuel flow ? Hope you got the boat on the cheap . Good luck
 
Last edited:
scoflaw said:
All my hoses are preformed with part #'s on them, the don't come in reels. What was wrong with the AC unit besides the rusty pan? Never heard of fuel pumps shutting down by design cause they got too hot. A solenoid for adjusting fuel flow ? Hope you got the boat on the cheap . Good luck
Click to expand...

That is interesting about the hoses, as I have started to look into replacement they are all cut based on the length and gauge you need. At least the major ones I am replacing such as fuel fill, exhaust, black water etc. Regarding the A/C, there were so many components that were rusted out and shot that repairing them would had cost 1/2 of replacement and there would had been no warranty on the unit, now I have 2 years and a unit I will maintain from new. The boat was the the highest optioned, with lowest hours and asking price was on the lower end of "market" of comps from that model year. After making an extensive list of repairs, replacement and suggestions by the surveyor I was able to knock off $50k from the asking price, so I got a great deal but knew I needed to spare no expense on the front end to make the boat reliable and useable. So far no regrets, just a little frustrated from time to time as we have not been able to enjoy the boat.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,247
Messages
1,429,230
Members
61,125
Latest member
Bassinbradw
Back
Top