Location of Amps for stereo

GREAT photos! And yes, they're a HUGE help, so THANKS! Good call on the steel fish tape (that's what I have); I picked up a 6' thin and somewhat flimsy PVC-type "wire cover" today at West Marine to use for the wire-fishing. Just ordered the connectors from Amazon, so I'm hoping to begin the project by week's end. More ahead (eventually, I want to install GPS, a new TV in the salon, and a better wire setup for watching TV outside on deck), but this will be a good, simple starter project for me. Thanks again!
 
magstang1 - I've hit a snag. I'm trying to get to the back of the Clarion unit to find the AUX RCA cables, but I'm guessing that the head unit is secured with the support strap in the back, which won't allow it to "slide" forward out of its location above my breaker panel. Is there a secret trap door to get to the back of the Clarion unit?
 
radiojon said:
magstang1 - I've hit a snag. I'm trying to get to the back of the Clarion unit to find the AUX RCA cables, but I'm guessing that the head unit is secured with the support strap in the back, which won't allow it to "slide" forward out of its location above my breaker panel. Is there a secret trap door to get to the back of the Clarion unit?
Click to expand...

You did remove the four mounting screws that are behind the rubber covers in the front of the Clarion didn’t you? By the way, when you slide the unit forward do it slowly and carefully, the power/speaker plug on the back of the Clarion unit is fragile, and you can easily break the internal pins on it. Firsthand experience on that one!
 
radiojon said:
magstang1 - I've hit a snag. I'm trying to get to the back of the Clarion unit to find the AUX RCA cables, but I'm guessing that the head unit is secured with the support strap in the back, which won't allow it to "slide" forward out of its location above my breaker panel. Is there a secret trap door to get to the back of the Clarion unit?
Click to expand...
On my 300DA the DC panel is just below the radio. I removed the four screws holding it and gently moved it out of the way so that I could see everything inside and get at all the audio connections. I didn't remove the head unit.
 
ZZ13 said:
On my 300DA the DC panel is just below the radio. I removed the four screws holding it and gently moved it out of the way so that I could see everything inside and get at all the audio connections. I didn't remove the head unit.
Click to expand...

This is a better approach and works for the 320 as well. By doing it this way you can reach all the audio cables without disturbing the radio connections (power plug / antenna….).

It gives you lots of working room as well. Just make sure you have your shore power turned off, there is 110 AC back there. Keep your batteries off as well, that way if you do hit anything you won’t have to reset breakers.
 
Okay, great suggestion and it worked perfectly! Took off the 12V DC panel and I was able to get behind and easily find the AUX RCA cables (easily found with those black caps attached). Plugged in a short cable to mini and tested out the mp3 player and it came through loud and clear on the Clarion's AUX input!

NOW, as I mentioned, I want to run this cable up to the helm -- which looks to be a little more difficult in itself. I tried running a hard-plastic "fish" cable back through the area where the main dash cables were going and never could get it to "drop" down in behind the radio; I had to remove the starboard speaker panel to get a better look and I found the reason -- the opening through the bulkhead has been filled with a hardish-rubbery silicone filler substance, presumably to keep any moisture out of the breaker panel area. Here's a photo of what it looks like top-side:

2012-10-10 12.08.15.JPG

Next question - any thoughts on what I should use to break through this hard-rubbery stuff so that I can pull the cable through?
 
radiojon said:
Okay, great suggestion and it worked perfectly! Took off the 12V DC panel and I was able to get behind and easily find the AUX RCA cables (easily found with those black caps attached). Plugged in a short cable to mini and tested out the mp3 player and it came through loud and clear on the Clarion's AUX input!

NOW, as I mentioned, I want to run this cable up to the helm -- which looks to be a little more difficult in itself. I tried running a hard-plastic "fish" cable back through the area where the main dash cables were going and never could get it to "drop" down in behind the radio; I had to remove the starboard speaker panel to get a better look and I found the reason -- the opening through the bulkhead has been filled with a hardish-rubbery silicone filler substance, presumably to keep any moisture out of the breaker panel area. Here's a photo of what it looks like top-side:

View attachment 27442

Next question - any thoughts on what I should use to break through this hard-rubbery stuff so that I can pull the cable through?
Click to expand...
I mounted my iPOD adapter next to the head unit, but I now plan to move it to the helm. My plan is to take off the gauge panel at the top of the helm and see if I can drop the RCA end from there. Then feed the plug end inside the helm cavity to wherever you want to mount it. There may be blockage along that path as well, but my helm remote takes that route so I am hoping its a clean drop. I plan to try it this weekend.

There's another thread somewhere else on here where the person is trying to do the same thing with a new remote. I posted the same suggestion there. Here it is:

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.ph...ire-from-the-helm-to-Salon-Clarion-MW1-remote
 
Sorry, slow to respond on that one. Looks like you got it covered.

Can you make a new hole and install a grommet?
 
I'd really prefer not to drill a new hole through the bulkhead fiberglass. I think I'll just use a small drill bit and SLOWLY make a small hole in the top part of that grommet area where it's all rubber-stuff. Then I'll take that really thin, PVC cable cover (that I got for a couple of bucks at West Marine) and punch it through to the other side. Hopefully, I'll be able to place one of the RCA connectors inside the cable cover, tape it up, then pull it back through. The key is to make a big enough cut in the rubber-stuff to get the cable through, but small and tight enough that it'll kinda "self-seal" itself when I pull the cable back through. Fingers crossed! Update to come ... thanks, guys.
 
radiojon said:
Okay, great suggestion and it worked perfectly! Took off the 12V DC panel and I was able to get behind and easily find the AUX RCA cables (easily found with those black caps attached). Plugged in a short cable to mini and tested out the mp3 player and it came through loud and clear on the Clarion's AUX input!

NOW, as I mentioned, I want to run this cable up to the helm -- which looks to be a little more difficult in itself. I tried running a hard-plastic "fish" cable back through the area where the main dash cables were going and never could get it to "drop" down in behind the radio; I had to remove the starboard speaker panel to get a better look and I found the reason -- the opening through the bulkhead has been filled with a hardish-rubbery silicone filler substance, presumably to keep any moisture out of the breaker panel area. Here's a photo of what it looks like top-side:

View attachment 27442

Next question - any thoughts on what I should use to break through this hard-rubbery stuff so that I can pull the cable through?[/QUOTE]

Don’t try to break through it, there is no need to. Just drill another hole in the plywood, run the wire through, and then fill the hole with silicon. When drilling wrap tape around the drill bit about ¾ of an inch from the tip of the bit. This will prevent the drill from punching through while drilling.
Click to expand...
 
Personally I wouldn't mess with the bundle of wires that is already there.

If you're pulling an RCA connector through there you will most likely damage a wire on the boat, or rip the end off the cable.

That picture you posted is pretty small, but it looks pretty tight.

I don't remember exactly but I think it takes about a 3/4" hole to get a set of RCA's through.
 
ZZ13 said:
I mounted my iPOD adapter next to the head unit, but I now plan to move it to the helm. My plan is to take off the gauge panel at the top of the helm and see if I can drop the RCA end from there. Then feed the plug end inside the helm cavity to wherever you want to mount it. There may be blockage along that path as well, but my helm remote takes that route so I am hoping its a clean drop. I plan to try it this weekend.
Click to expand...
Well that was a dumb idea. I checked it out and there is no opening there to the cabin - what was I thinking.
 
radiojon said:
Finished! Since the site won't let me upload pics (do I need to be a site sponsor to do so?), here's a link to the finished product:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ygxm7c7yyp78rb2/2012-10-14%2016.44.21.jpg

AND, while I was at it, I installed a GPS unit to the boat, too!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sgulsr9c96kwcq3/2012-10-14 16.43.21.jpg

THANKS, guys, for the input!!!!! Now, I'm ready to tackle installing a new TV in the salon ...

- Mark
Click to expand...
Excellent. Looks great! So what did you do - drill the new hole you planned and then plug it with goop after you ran the wire through?
 
Actually drilled through the existing goop while carefully making sure I wasn't anywhere near the existing wire bundle. I found that I STILL hit the plywood when I drilled, so the grommet was apparently larger than the existing opening. For some reason, I thought I would hit fiberglass (a bulkhead there), which was why I was hesitant to drill through. So I could've easily drilled another hole with no troubles ... but all's well that ends well. Haven't re-filled with silicone goop just yet, but will definitely do so. Luckily, there's not much to back-fill ... a lot of the goop just bounced back into place.

Thanks again for all of the help, guys! I sure wouldn't have had the courage to do it without all the guidance here!
 
Sorry,but I have a dumb question. I have a 2004 320 and want to upgrade so are there actually two separate amps? One for cabin and one for cockpit? The cabin speakers play without turning on "stereo amplifier" on the switch panel, but the cockpit speakers only play with the switch on. I also found the MA-A420 under the couch.

thanks for any insight.
 
stfarris61 said:
Sorry,but I have a dumb question. I have a 2004 320 and want to upgrade so are there actually two separate amps? One for cabin and one for cockpit? The cabin speakers play without turning on "stereo amplifier" on the switch panel, but the cockpit speakers only play with the switch on. I also found the MA-A420 under the couch.

thanks for any insight.
Click to expand...


There is no amp for the cabin speakers; they are driven directly from the Clarion receiver. The small amp under the cabin bench seat is for the cockpit speakers.
 
gerryb said:
Just did the same on our 40DA. First, you have a 130Watt amp for the cockpit as stock. Totally a POS. I replace it with a JL Audio 4 channel amp. Relatively simple replacement. I left the POS amp used for the cabin inplace as we hardly ever crank it up down there. Next issue you'll have to deal with is the fact that the AUX input may already be used by the TV. If you turn on the tv and hit the AUX button on your head unit and hear the tv in the speakers, your aux is already in use. I wanted to be able to connect an mp3 player or my iphone so I used a splitter on the aux port which now allows me to have both the tv and iphone connected (even at the same time) and able to be listened to via the single aux input. I have some pics I can send you - just PM me.
Click to expand...
Do you know where the aux input is I can’t find it
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,218
Messages
1,428,821
Members
61,115
Latest member
Gardnersf
Back
Top