LED Navigation Lighting Suggestions
- Thread starter DDD
- Start date
I bought mine on eBay. Just start looking in Boat Parts. There's a lot to choose from.
Getaway
Well-Known Member
- Oct 13, 2010
- 1,077
- Boat Info
- 1998 290DA Sundancer
Lowrance electronics, Fishhawk, Scotty Downriggers
BoatWheels Tri-Axle Trailer
- Engines
- Single big block 454 MPI Mercruiser engine and Bravo III outdrive.
I bought mine here. They have direct fit replacements for your current bulbs.
http://store.marinebeam.com/led-navigation-bulbs.html
http://store.marinebeam.com/led-navigation-bulbs.html
JimFromMD
Well-Known Member
- Aug 9, 2010
- 1,777
- Boat Info
- 2005 300DA, Garmin 740s w/Vision Charts and GMR18HD RADAR
- Engines
- 5.0MPI w/BIIs, Kohler 5E Generator.
I mentioned this in another thread, but during my spring vessel safety check, the USCG rep recommended changing the entire fixture if you want to go to LEDs. While you can change the standard bulbs out for LED bulbs, replacing the fixture ensures you have a water tight unit, AND that the LEDs are properly matched with the filtering properties of the lenses themselves to provide the correct brightness and color for USCG spec. (He brought it up when he noticed that I had changed my stern white (bulb only) to LED and also the mast light (full replacement fitting with LED), but not my red/green nav lights.
This is absolutely great advice. I often read people here swapping out just LED bulbs in NAV lights. Not a good idea for the before mentioned reasons.
I went with Attwood LEDs. They fit in essentially the same footprint as the Attwood fixtures many of the 2000s model Sea Rays have. I went with the 2nm lights for better visibility on my Sea Ray and Boston Whaler.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/attwood--3500-series-led-navigation-lights--P009_277_001_530
They also have a Transom and Masthead LED Light
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/attwood--three-mile-led-lights--P009_277_001_535
MonacoMike
Well-Known Member
- Sep 15, 2009
- 14,721
- Boat Info
- 2000 Cruisers 3870
8.2 Mercs
- Engines
- 85 Sea Ray Monaco 197
260hp Alpha 1
All good advice here. I would add to Jim's comments that the Coast Guard does not approve bulbs, just fixtures.
Jason, any idea why the 2NM lights are cheaper?
MM
Jason, any idea why the 2NM lights are cheaper?
MM
Not a clue, maybe because they are more common and ordered in larger quantities? Not sure why anyone would want 1nm anyway. The more I can be seen by other boaters at night the better.
WDCboater
Member
- Oct 3, 2010
- 962
- Boat Info
- 2010 350 Sundancer
Raymarine c95 GPS
KVH Satellite
- Engines
- Twin Mercury 8.1 Horizon V-Drives
I replaced all of my lights on my 2010 350 with LED bulbs from SuperBrightLEDs.com
It was a great move.
No major wiring differences. They make LED bulbs to replace just about every bulb used on newer SeaRays. The only issue we had was the starboard light. We needed to reverse the wires to switch the polarity. LEDs have specific polarity connections unlike many incandescent bulbs.
Our anchor light came as an LED as part of our SeaView mount system.
It was a great move.
No major wiring differences. They make LED bulbs to replace just about every bulb used on newer SeaRays. The only issue we had was the starboard light. We needed to reverse the wires to switch the polarity. LEDs have specific polarity connections unlike many incandescent bulbs.
Our anchor light came as an LED as part of our SeaView mount system.
I saw that they make the 1nm and the 2nm too.
Is this 2nm a bigger unit/housing entirely, or same size with a brighter led?
Dont have any idea. I have never seen a 1nm. I have installed 10 of the 2nm so far for myself and friends. I think it is safe to assume they are the same size with the 2nm model having a brighter LED.
Mine are the 2nm type. They are brighter but the fixture is the same size
Southpaw II
Active Member
I changed mine to the 2NM Attwoods. I like the lighted top to see if they are working, from the helm, or not, just after sundown. Yes, I put sealant on the bottom.
Don
Don
Definitely install a sealant. 3M 4000UV or 3M Marine Silicone. The silicone will be easier to deal with if you every have to get back in. Don't use 4200 or 5200. They are of similar build quality to the OEM Attwoods and other NAV lights I have seen. Plastic base and housing with a Chromed SS cover. You will have to re-drill the 2 screw holes. Make sure to seal the old holes good.
Thanks!
Did you seal the housing to the deck?
Or did you seal the SS cover to the plastic base?
Or both?
I put sealant in all the holes and between base and the deck. Once all that is sealed good and the base screwed down to the deck, I placed the fixture on the base and screwed the SS cover on to hold it all together. Essentially all deck penetrations are protected but I did not want to prevent getting back in to the light for whatever reason down the road.
** Make sure you check your lights before you seal and install. LEDs are polarity sensitive and they will not work if backwards.
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Yes, I put a 3M Marine down first then the lights and as another said I love the light on top showing they are working
DB360
Active Member
- Feb 25, 2010
- 267
- Boat Info
- 360 SUNDANCER 2004
BOW THRUSTER
AXIOM 12 RV
EVOLUTION 200 AUTOPILOT
- Engines
- YANMAR DIESEL 315'S
8 KW KOHLER
4 HP JOHNSON
Just ordered from Defender the "Edition/Atwood" (6751) steaming / anchor light. Soooooooooo sick of changing those stupid bulbs at night when flipping the switch at dusk and then finding out they don't work!
Heres' hoping this fixes the problem!
D
Heres' hoping this fixes the problem!
D
