Leaking Water Connections

[gerryb]

Here you go... very straightforward.

http://clubsearay.com/index.php?thr...eater-bypass-using-pex-and-ball-valves.85506/

 

[Jaybeaux]

Where the two cold lines "go into" the heater, the one closest to the heater is actually the supply line from the pump. The other cold line is the supply to your manifold for distribution to the rest of the boat. There is a check valve in that "metal coupler".

Jaybeaux

 

[importmonkey]

Here you go... very straightforward.

http://clubsearay.com/index.php?thr...eater-bypass-using-pex-and-ball-valves.85506/

Thanks Gerry! That's exactly what I was going to do. Excellent.

 

[importmonkey]

Where the two cold lines "go into" the heater, the one closest to the heater is actually the supply line from the pump. The other cold line is the supply to your manifold for distribution to the rest of the boat. There is a check valve in that "metal coupler".

Jaybeaux

According to the parts manual, the outside is the feed from the manifold in the mid cabin and the inside is the line to the bilge washdown. I wonder if there's a difference due to our years?

 

[Jaybeaux]

Or working upside down had my orientation off!

 

[bbwhitejr]

Thanks guys!

I was at HD and picked up a pinch clamp tool, pinch clamps, fittings and adapters to make a bypass kit. Was going to do sharkbite, but they are so damn heavy and I didn't want that strain on all the fittings.

I'll have to find that bypass thread - I got three valves (in cold shutoff, hot out cutoff, cold to hot bypass on/off) but feel like I should only need two, but didn't know how to keep the cold mixing to the hot or the flow backfeeding into the hot of the heater.

I wonder where the Pex pipe came from? Did the PO replumb? I cannot believe it is OEM...

Would be nice though!

Bennett

 

[importmonkey]

Could be, but the parts manual calls out Hull numbers. Must have made the switch through 2007 year.

 

[importmonkey]

According to the parts manual, the outside is the feed from the manifold in the mid cabin and the inside is the line to the bilge washdown. I wonder if there's a difference due to our years?

View attachment 55648

Turns out, the outside cold was to the bilge washdown and the inside cold was from the manifold. Fixed and improved - put in my own bypass valve setup. Posted details in 420DA thread, but here's one pic.

/end hijack

 

[MrKulio]

For those of you struggling with the same issue, i was able to stop 100% of my leaks on my 2005 Sea Ray Sundancer 300 w/SeaTech fittings with a $75 tool i picked up at Lowes! Saved myself a ton of time and money!!

As others stated, the issue was not the gasket but the brass fitting around the hose itself. It does expand over time thus creating room for water to slip through the internal barb fitting and out through the top of the female 1/2 connector piece. All i did was remove each hose, and clamped each one down with the tool right above the wider base nearest the swivel fitting (See pictures). It will feel like its going to break with the clamp force but had zero issues clamping down. Out of the 28 i did, only one required 2 hits with the crimp tool!

Here is the tool from Lowes and the pictures

 

[Jaybeaux]

For those of you struggling with the same issue, i was able to stop 100% of my leaks on my 2005 Sea Ray Sundancer 300 w/SeaTech fittings with a $75 tool i picked up at Lowes! Saved myself a ton of time and money!!

As others stated, the issue was not the gasket but the brass fitting around the hose itself. It does expand over time thus creating room for water to slip through the internal barb fitting and out through the top of the female 1/2 connector piece. All i did was remove each hose, and clamped each one down with the tool right above the wider base nearest the swivel fitting (See pictures). It will feel like its going to break with the clamp force but had zero issues clamping down. Out of the 28 i did, only one required 2 hits with the crimp tool!

Here is the tool from Lowes and the pictures View attachment 104983 View attachment 104984 View attachment 104985 View attachment 104987

Reviving an older thread since it is my turn to start chasing water leaks. Are you still pleased with the way this tool performed in stopping your leaks?

 

[Tim Fila]

Reviving an older thread since it is my turn to start chasing water leaks. Are you still pleased with the way this tool performed in stopping your leaks?

My transom shower fittings were leaking. I used this tool and it worked like a charm.

Tim

 

[Bob Coleman]

For those of you struggling with the same issue, i was able to stop 100% of my leaks on my 2005 Sea Ray Sundancer 300 w/SeaTech fittings with a $75 tool i picked up at Lowes! Saved myself a ton of time and money!!

As others stated, the issue was not the gasket but the brass fitting around the hose itself. It does expand over time thus creating room for water to slip through the internal barb fitting and out through the top of the female 1/2 connector piece. All i did was remove each hose, and clamped each one down with the tool right above the wider base nearest the swivel fitting (See pictures). It will feel like its going to break with the clamp force but had zero issues clamping down. Out of the 28 i did, only one required 2 hits with the crimp tool!

Here is the tool from Lowes and the pictures View attachment 104983 View attachment 104984 View attachment 104985 View attachment 104987

Did you crimp over the original crimp or further up towards the end of the fitting?

 

[brewster16]

Did you crimp over the original crimp or further up towards the end of the fitting?

Take a look at the pictures above. The red arrows show the crimp zone...the widest part of the brass collar.

 

[mschneider]

I used the sharkbite crimp tool on my 2005 340 and it worked like a charm. I had already replaced the gasket/washer on many connections and they were still leaking. Now after re-crimping there is no more leaks.

 

[Bob Coleman]

I used the sharkbite crimp tool on my 2005 340 and it worked like a charm. I had already replaced the gasket/washer on many connections and they were still leaking. Now after re-crimping there is no more leaks.

I'm pretty sure my fittings are steel and not brass. Do you think the crimping tool will still work?

 

[mschneider]

I'm pretty sure my fittings are steel and not brass. Do you think the crimping tool will still work?

I assumed they were all the same but maybe not? Mine appear more like steel than brass so I would say yes as long as they are crimp type. If you were closer I would loan you the tool so you can try it.

 

[Bob Coleman]

I assumed they were all the same but maybe not? Mine appear more like steel than brass so I would say yes as long as they are crimp type. If you were closer I would loan you the tool so you can try it.
View attachment 141641 View attachment 141640

Great Pic, thanks so much. I'll get one at Lowes

 

[Bob Coleman]

Great Pic, thanks so much. I'll get one at Lowes

Watched the video on the tool. Did you have to change the setting before you used it?

 

[mschneider]

Watched the video on the tool. Did you have to change the setting before you used it?

I did not make any changes.