Late 90's 270 Sundancer Thread

Does anyone have any pics or help from adding a GPS? The 270s helm is a bit cramped for s larger GPS/chartplotter, while I'll be putting a Garmin Echomap 93sv (9" diag screen) in.

Due to the lack of embedding in dash options, will be going RAM mount. If anyone has any clean-ish install pics or links, please send 'em my way. Right now, it seems the best placement will be the RAM ball base sitting almost in front of the gas gauge on the right hand side of the helm, and will use the RAM arm to position as needed. Of course, I need to sort powering it, and routing of cables. For the power cable bundle, I think I'm going to slightly widen one of the ram mount base holes, snip off the inline fuse, feed it through and then solder and heat-shrink the fuse back onto the line. Need to dig out the manual and see if I can decipher where to get ACC ON power - looks like I should be able to tap off the ignition switch itself. Surprised to see the 'cigarette lighter' socket claiming 15A, so could certainly get power from there although at least on mine, it seems to be wired to constant power. I am seeing a ground bar on the right starboard side of the hull, so there's the ground unless I wire directly to a switch.. I'm thinking will seal off the wire run through the bracket and helm with some marine sealant or silicon, but then go back and find a boot I can put over it as well.

Once it comes to later adding a transducer, I'm not seeing a clean way to avoid another hole in the helm, moreso as those cables have a fat connector on them. Let me know if anyone has any good thoughts on wiring/cable routing.

The current depth finder has a cable labeled Airmar P23 - which I'm trying to sort if I can plug into the echomap temporarily simply to get depth readings, even if via an adapter. If I can, then I can use the depth sounder existing switch on the help to power the GPS. I'll eventually do the UHD-54 transom mount or replace the through-hull transducer, but probably not until she comes out of the water towards end of season, so any thoughts appreciated.
 
Ram mounts look terrible in my opinion. Here’s one I saw awhile ago from a listing. I also have a raymarine a68 built in will upload later
 

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Thanks for the pic Andreas!
Nice gauge rework and I'm guessing that's a 6" screen?
We definitely don't have a lot of dash room, and this is a 9" unit in this case...so I'm not sure I have any choice.
This is basically the only place I can come up with at the moment.

Removed the VHF radio temporarily, as I'd thought I'd run the power cable down through the mount but really don't like drilling downward on that flat more than I need to (more likely to let water through IMO), so I guess right now I'm looking for an appropriate grommet and boot and will run the cables down the side and go into the helm down below the 12V socket. Not ideal but seemingly limited options.

If anyone knows definitively the right source for switched power (seems like can get from one of the ignition switch terminals, but still need to find the wiring diagram..)

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Does anyone have any pics or help from adding a GPS? The 270s helm is a bit cramped for s larger GPS/chartplotter, while I'll be putting a Garmin Echomap 93sv (9" diag screen) in.

Due to the lack of embedding in dash options, will be going RAM mount. If anyone has any clean-ish install pics or links, please send 'em my way. Right now, it seems the best placement will be the RAM ball base sitting almost in front of the gas gauge on the right hand side of the helm, and will use the RAM arm to position as needed. Of course, I need to sort powering it, and routing of cables. For the power cable bundle, I think I'm going to slightly widen one of the ram mount base holes, snip off the inline fuse, feed it through and then solder and heat-shrink the fuse back onto the line. Need to dig out the manual and see if I can decipher where to get ACC ON power - looks like I should be able to tap off the ignition switch itself. Surprised to see the 'cigarette lighter' socket claiming 15A, so could certainly get power from there although at least on mine, it seems to be wired to constant power. I am seeing a ground bar on the right starboard side of the hull, so there's the ground unless I wire directly to a switch.. I'm thinking will seal off the wire run through the bracket and helm with some marine sealant or silicon, but then go back and find a boot I can put over it as well.

Once it comes to later adding a transducer, I'm not seeing a clean way to avoid another hole in the helm, moreso as those cables have a fat connector on them. Let me know if anyone has any good thoughts on wiring/cable routing.

The current depth finder has a cable labeled Airmar P23 - which I'm trying to sort if I can plug into the echomap temporarily simply to get depth readings, even if via an adapter. If I can, then I can use the depth sounder existing switch on the help to power the GPS. I'll eventually do the UHD-54 transom mount or replace the through-hull transducer, but probably not until she comes out of the water towards end of season, so any thoughts appreciated.
check my post #417
 
Does anyone have any tips (or pictures or threads) for how to get behind the Radio/CD changer? I assume the amp is back there somewhere. I didn't see one in any of the closets. The radio has power but no sound comes out. The 6 Disc changer doesn't eject and I assume doesn't have power. Just trying to get this some sound working to evaluate if the speakers need replacing. Sound hasn't worked since I bought the boat.

I assume I have to remove the interior piece that makes up the air vent, the storage above the dinette and hold the radio. No visible screws and it seems to be very tightly secured to the Port bulkhead.
 
Does anyone have any tips (or pictures or threads) for how to get behind the Radio/CD changer? I assume the amp is back there somewhere. I didn't see one in any of the closets. The radio has power but no sound comes out. The 6 Disc changer doesn't eject and I assume doesn't have power. Just trying to get this some sound working to evaluate if the speakers need replacing. Sound hasn't worked since I bought the boat.

I assume I have to remove the interior piece that makes up the air vent, the storage above the dinette and hold the radio. No visible screws and it seems to be very tightly secured to the Port bulkhead.

mine had 4 black screws holding the back piece where CD changer and radio are mounted. I removed them and pulled them out. YourS is prob pressure fit if no screws but that’s where the little amp is. Don’t mess around anywhere else.
 
Well guys, we sold the 270 to move into something bigger. I loved the 5 years I had with the boat and learned a lot in the process. We don't want to trailer anymore so it seemed silly to keep a tow truck and trailer around just for a boat we have no intention of trailering. I could have sold the trailer, I know, but felt it was easier to sell the 270 with a good trailer. The boat market is hot these days, I sold the boat on Facebook marketplace in 3 days.

Keep on enjoying the 270's!
 
mine had 4 black screws holding the back piece where CD changer and radio are mounted. I removed them and pulled them out. YourS is prob pressure fit if no screws but that’s where the little amp is. Don’t mess around anywhere else.

Assuming you mean the four screws in the corners of the wood that holds the radio and CD changer. The bottom two were easy to get to with a screw driver once the door is open. I’ll have to figure out the top two because they are hiding behind the rounded corner of the door “frame”. Maybe a small wrench with a 90 degree Philips head.
 

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Assuming you mean the four screws in the corners of the wood that holds the radio and CD changer. The bottom two were easy to get to with a screw driver once the door is open. I’ll have to figure out the top two because they are hiding behind the rounded corner of the door “frame”. Maybe a small wrench with a 90 degree Philips head.
If you're just trying to see what's back there, there are small flat "keys" that slide in on either side of the radio to slide it out of it's frame. Once that's out you can get to the CD changer also.
 
Assuming you mean the four screws in the corners of the wood that holds the radio and CD changer. The bottom two were easy to get to with a screw driver once the door is open. I’ll have to figure out the top two because they are hiding behind the rounded corner of the door “frame”. Maybe a small wrench with a 90 degree Philips head.

Yes it's those four screws. It might be a tight squeeze but you should be able to get them all out with a regular Phillips driver. Once you do, the amp is right behind that panel. You may also need to remove the door latch in order to pull the panel out. Two more small silver screws on the aft edge of the door opening.
 
Hello from Greece. I ve just bought a 2000 270 sundancer with twin 4,3. I m trying to find out how the boat handles the bad weather. The usual weather here is 3-5bf wind with a 3-4 foot waves from several directions. The trips are about 15 to 30 miles. I like the boat so much and I want to make it perfect.
 
Ram mounts look terrible in my opinion. Here’s one I saw awhile ago from a listing. I also have a raymarine a68 built in will upload later
The issota carlotta steering wheel make the cocpit perfect
 
Hello! Can anybody tell me what size dinghy is suitable for the 270 and how do I lift it!
 
I used an Achilles LSI 260 which is 8'8" and has the air floor. I would bring it when needed and just sit it on the back seat then throw it off the back and blow it up hanging off the back. I had a 4hp motor I would stick under the back seat until time to deploy.
 
1998 270 DA - looking for what gear ratio was used in the Bravo 3 drive.

Family member's lower unit is toast and need to order a reman, but serial number info is missing / not legible on the drive.
 
Found the answer to my own question. Turns out Sea Ray posts prop charts to the owners section of their site. That info includes all the drive outdrive ratios too.

Ratio for the Bravo 3 in 1998 was 2.00:1.

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