Late 90's 270 Sundancer Thread

Sorry...1999 270 7.4 bravo 3. It has a heater craft unit, it does heat with motor on, but nothing when hooked up to shore power. I thought there may be a option for electric heat but I may be mistaken.

Thanks


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Sorry...1999 270 7.4 bravo 3. It has a heater craft unit, it does heat with motor on, but nothing when hooked up to shore power. I thought there may be a option for electric heat but I may be mistaken.

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you have air conditioning?

MM
 
My guess is the heatercraft is aftermarket. Works like a car heater. Google it and see what comes up.
 
I have a Heatercraft Hydronic heater on our boat. I installed it (located in the mid-cabin) right after we bought the boat.


It's been great.
 
How many bilge pumps do these boats have?

I know two 1000 Rules in the bilge (auto+manual switch at helm)

One in the shower sump. I know this has an auto switch when it gets high enough. Does anyone know if this can be manually activated?

Are there any others from the factory?

How can the float switches be tested? Mine appear to be solid boxes with no way to test other than filling the bilge with water.
 
The three pumps are it. My float switches can be tested with a little knob that sticks out. Difficult to notice, but if I contort myself, I can reach in and twixt. This pushes the float up and then the pump starts pumping.

Not sure if the sump for the shower can be manually activated. My float got stuck once and I could not manually disconnect it thaough.

Mark
 
The shower bilge pump cannot be manually tested on our 270. I have replaced the shower pump and have since trained my ear to listen for it while showering. If it does not kick on, you have a mess on your hands!
 
Has anyone mounted a kicker on their 270?


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Mine must have already been replaced then its a small rule 8 gph w the paddle float switch. I fixed that issue but i still have water in the cavity around the box that holds the pump. Has anyone seen this issue? Its not from the ac because it still has a slight antifreeze pink hue to it. I have flushed my water tank prob 10 times since de-winterizing so i dont understand where its coming from
 
Our 270 had same problem too, shower pump was working and liquid still gathered in hull. Took me a while to notice that the screw holding the clamp on the condensation pan drain line was missing. This allowed the line to raise just enough that it would not drain the pan. Pan would fill and collect in that area. Plugged line or a hole in drain pan under ac unit would produce same problem. I'm guessing pink tinted liquid is antifreeze from previous winterization.
 
Thx that's a great place to start! I hope thats not it because my AC has been on for almost a week now....
 
Now that I think about it more I don't think that its possible that's the issue. the last time I was at the boat I fully cleared the cavity with a hand pump but while I was on our trip I checked it the next day and there was the water again. No AC running and no shower the only source would have been from the head or galley sink. That why I thought it was peculiar that there was still a hint of antifreeze because I have flushed the tank so many times it should not have any pink. Unless the condensation from the AC was residual??
 
Can someone verify the voltage on your battery before starting. My boat will not start recently and I am trying to trouble shoot the cause. I drained my batteries and had to get jumped off at the sand bar about a month ago. I got home and plugged the boat up to shore power to charge the batteries back up. At first part of the electronics would not work such as the interior lights etc. Now after the batteries have charge all the electronics seem to work but the boat will not start. With a multi-meter my two batteries are both at 12.5 to 12.6 volts. From memory it seems before they were over 14 but I am not sure. Can someone verify if I need to replace batteries or consider looking past them to another cause? When I turn the key, the alarm comes on but nothing but a simple click when I turn the key.
 
I would start by load testing the batteries. They may have a voltage of 12 or so, but that does not mean that the battery can generate the amperage required to start an engine. If the load test fails you need new batteries.
 
I would start by load testing the batteries. They may have a voltage of 12 or so, but that does not mean that the battery can generate the amperage required to start an engine. If the load test fails you need new batteries.
Batteries are good. I have realized if I keep turning the key off and on the boat will finally start. I assume my starter is going out. Where is it located on these boats? I don't see it but based on sound is it under the starboard valve cover?
 
It's a Chevy. Starboard side low towards the back of the engine. Follow the big red wires from the battery switch. Did you load test the batteries?
 
Any recommendations on replacement holding tank filters that are a direct fit for the 270? Thanks.
 
I'm sure I'm not the first to ask about this, but I can't find anything about it on here, so here we go. When you turn the key to start up, the two REALLY loud beeps...I believe they originate with the fire suppression system. They drive me insane. Any way to either muffle those or turn them off? My only guess is they are to let you know the system is working or something, is that right?
 

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