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Discussion in 'Electrical Stuff' started by pyro, Apr 15, 2019.
Are you saying in response to gen being jammed up?
You are pumping liquid into the raw water intake and no water comes out of exhaust? That’s bad news and certainly explains LOC. You’re overheating in minutes. If you follow the raw water line, you can connect the pump hose to the inlet for the high pressure fuel pump and then the heat exchanger to localize the clog. But I’d pull all raw water hoses and nipples and look for impeller fins and salt junk. The photo is what I found in the raw water outlet on top of the high pressure fuel pump on mine. Lots of bottlenecks.
From the inlet/impeller to the fuel pump it seems to be clear and has good flow but then zero flow coming out of the fuel pump.
You could still have junk in both the pump and exchanger. I ended up buying a new fuel pump but still had to flush the exchanger to get the raw water flow that others were accustomed to seeing. It would be a little funny if you pull that fitting off the top of the fuel pump and find an impeller fin just like I did. Note that you can’t just pull the hoses to check for obstructions, you need to wrench the those compression fittings out as they are the real bottleneck as you can see if my prior photo.
if you get a new pump, you can add some color to your generator. I circled the fitting I’m talking about in the attached photo.
I’ll remove those fittings today, where did you get your pump I’ve been sifting through options online
I bought here - https://www.partsfortechs.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1953
But the current price is $300 higher than I paid 2 years ago.
In hindsight, I probably did not need the new pump. Had I cleared and cleaned all fittings of debris and then did the descaler flush, I bet I would have been all set.
but then it wouldn't be green!
Some things really are invaluable.
I went ahead and bought the fuel pump the old one was full of gunk and hardened, I had to use a screw driver and hammer just to break it up but finally got it cleared unfortunately the threaded bolt at the top broke off in the valve and I can’t get it out so new pump going in.
Getting this fitting joint loose to remove the fuel pump is a little tricky, any tips?
The one they sent me wasn’t even green, $800 for a black one
I painted it. Mine came unfinished and I painted it with some high-temp engine paint.
You might find it easier to remove the electric fuel pump first...those angled fittings are kind of a hassle to remove in-line.
It is almost certain that you have "gunk" everywhere. Assuming you found the primary blockage and you can get water through to the exhaust after the new pump goes in, you're probably going to want to run that descaler flush through the whole raw water system.
That heat exchanger into the block pathway has multiple tight fittings. You can take the ones off the top really easily...the hose from the heat exchanger into the block and then the fitting on the block side will give you a sense for how much junk is on the opposite side of the exchanger...if it's over there, then it is certainly in the exchanger too.
Good luck with all this.
Been reading and learning much about kohlers while trying to sort mine out. This site has been by far the most informative - thanks to all of you. My 5EKD will build fuel pressure (measured at schrader valve at injector) to 70psi. Assuming the fuel regulator is suspect. Before spending $800+ on new module, if I remove fuel module and open it, can regulator be cleaned? Generator will run and will eventually shut down. Assuming excessively high fuel pressure not a good thing. I also think engine temp is a bit high (195-200 under load, 80 degree sea water). New impeller, pulled cap off HE and all clear. Any feedback would be appreciated.
It’s running great got all the gunk out but I can’t get this joint to stop leaking
Fitting could be cracked. Try using sealant instead of tape on the threads.
Good idea, but if it still leaks wouldn’t the fitting kind of be stuck?