King Trailers

[Nehalennia]

Has anyone owned a King Trailer?

I need to buy a trailer for the pending 2000~260DA.
I'm going to buy a King Trailer "the Saltwater trailer"

Things I like are the replaceable spindles, reverse lockout, poly glide bunks and disc brakes and LED lights.
They are made in my hometown and have a growing reputation as being a great trailer.

 

[Alex F]

I don't knwo the king trailers, but I've used regular galvanized and they work fine. If you rinse them off and flush the breaks they should last for years. I hope you're not paying a fortune for the special kind. It could be an overkill.

My 2c.

Alex.

 

[Four Suns]

I have a King Trailer...

Good product.

 

[Nehalennia]

$6k for a new triple axle 8600lb, disc brakes all around, LED lights, I think it's a good price

 

[thunderbird1]

Todd: Is 8600 pounds adequate. I realize your 2000 260 weighs less than my 2006, but if you have gear + fuel + fresh water + generator won't you be pushing the limit?

 

[Nehalennia]

Todd: Is 8600 pounds adequate. I realize your 2000 260 weighs less than my 2006, but if you have gear + fuel + fresh water + generator won't you be pushing the limit?

I figure the dry weight is 6200lbs. Add 1000lbs for gear + fuel. No Genny to worry about. I should be minimum 500-600lbs conservatively under

 

[Dave M.]

$6k for a new triple axle 8600lb, disc brakes all around, LED lights, I think it's a good price

I assume that the 8600 lb must be the weight carrying load of the trailer, not the total weight including trailer. The dry weight of my 270 is published as 6400 lb. In real life it comes in at about 8,000 lb.

I just checked my trailer tires, they are the same. Looks like you should be good to go.

 

[Nehalennia]

I assume that the 8600 lb must be the weight carrying load of the trailer, not the total weight including trailer. The dry weight of my 270 is published as 6400 lb. In real life it comes in at about 8,000 lb.

I just checked my trailer tires, they are the same. Looks like you should be good to go.

That's Correct. 8600 is the rating for the trailer to carry

 

[dpvandy01]

I just got a quote from Loadmaster for a tri-axel, LED, 6 sealed electric disc brakes (12") custom fit for the 2001 280 total capacity 13K for 5800.00. The same for a heavy duty tandem was around 5200.00 with load capacity of 10K?? I don't have the exact quote here at the fire house but I could attach it tomorrow if you are interested. BTW they have called a few times in the past few weeks to check on my interest??? Perhaps they are looking for work and willing to wiggle?

 

[Nehalennia]

I just got a quote from Loadmaster for a tri-axel, LED, 6 sealed electric disc brakes (12") custom fit for the 2001 280 total capacity 13K for 5800.00. The same for a heavy duty tandem was around 5200.00 with load capacity of 10K?? I don't have the exact quote here at the fire house but I could attach it tomorrow if you are interested. BTW they have called a few times in the past few weeks to check on my interest??? Perhaps they are looking for work and willing to wiggle?

Since you are in fresh water it's a painted trailer?

 

[Dave M.]

Todd, I think reverse lockout is not a nice option, it is a requirement if you have disk brakes. If you have drum brakes, it is not needed, as they by design don't brake in reverse.

If I were buying mine over again, the one thing I would definitely do different is get one that works with an electric brake controller, not a surge brake controller. To me that is more important than whether it has drum or disk brakes, or greased or oil filled hubs.

The owners manual for my EZ Loader specifically states not to shift into a lower gear when descending down long hills. This can cause the trailer surge brakes to be braking all the time, and may cause the brakes to fail. This is exactly contrary to what my PU owners manual says, and what roadside warning signs say on long steep downgrades. There is no way I will point the nose down the top of a long 6% downgrade and not slow an shift down before the grade gets that steep. I don't want to be using a runaway truck ramp.

 

[Nehalennia]

Dave,
now you have me scratching my head.
I had surge on my last trailer. Originally it had drum brakes and when backing up always seemed to lock up. When I converted it to disc it also locked up in reverse both because the truck was pushing the coupler into the trailer activating the brakes.
So I was looking at that feature as a bonus. Also, if I have disc on the new one, descending a long hill it would only activate the brakes when either I slow to give the surge coupler pressure or apply brakes to do the same.

I haven't looked into an electric controller or even if they offer it yet, but it seems like an unnecessary cost.

 

[Dave M.]

Todd, I suppose you could buy a trailer with drum brakes that are not free backing, but I don't know why they would sell them like that. You are probably familiar with normal drum brakes and know that there is a brake cylinder with pistons that come out each end, and push against the top of both the front and rear brake shoes.

In a free backing drum brake, normally it will be different. There won't be two pistons coming out of the cylinder, there will only be one. The top end of the other brake shoe will be mounted to a fixed mount instead of pushing against the second brake piston. Therefore, the brake can only push against the shoe in one direction, not both. The turning action of the drum into the brake shoe being pushed against it is what gives braking. The side of the shoe that is fixed mount can't apply pressure to the hub when moving in reverse, so you get free backing.

With disk brakes, there is no present way to make them operate in just one wheel direction, so the brake controller has to do it. While you probably can move a disk brake equipped trailer backwards on level ground without the free-backing option, as soon as you have to back up an incline you will be in trouble. The harder you push, the more it will put on the brakes. A 7000 lb tow vehicle will have a very hard time pushing a 10,000 lb trailer with locked brakes backwards up a hill. That's why I say it is a requirement for disk brakes.

If you are descending a 6% grade with a 10,000 boat in tow, the downhill (forward) force of the 10,000 lb boat and trailer is about 1000 lb; pushing on the surge brake controller. Granted wind resistance will help, but I think it will still be trying to apply brakes even at constant speed. I think the brake controller will apply brakes to relieve some of that pressure.

You may be right that the disk brakes could be protected by the controller. If the reverse lockout is triggered by voltage from the backup lights, then the brakes will come on when you descend a steep hill at constant speed. (brakes work on wiring failure) I believe this is how they are normally wired. But if the disk brake surge controller valve is set up to operate and be enabled by voltage from your brake lights, then the trailer brakes would not drag when descending a hill. (brakes don't work on wiring failure)

 

[keokie]

I have a lot of experience with trailer brakes. And I trailer among many very long, steep descents in 100+ degree heat. Here's my experience

Surge drums do not overheat, and work reasonably well if aggressively maintained

Surge disc do not overheat (if vented), but will run a bit hot. They stop noticeably better than surge drums and are virtually maintenance free. I have them under my 260, and they would be by FAR my recommendation for saltwater.

I have electric drums on my 310. They stop the best (electric controllers really help), and have been trouble free. They have not been in salt, although the manufacturer claims they will do okay if flushed well.

For what you are descibing, I would go with vented surge disc brakes, and you will need the reverse lockout.