Kholer Gen Not getting Fuel

hughespat57 said:
Parts book for 2003/320
See page 57 item 9 - filter and electric fuel solenoid on Starboard tank.

View attachment 125613

https://s3.amazonaws.com/srweb-pvt-...ic/parts-manuals/2003__2003-320-SUNDANCER.pdf
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Here is what I found. The fuel water separator/filter and solenoid valve I found on my portside Fuel tank and travels from there to my Generator, there is no other filter in line from there to the generator connection. The water separator looked good, no dirt debris and after letting it set in a glass jar no sign of water. Gas smelled good and no problem for main engines to start on it. I blew the line from there to the Generator and some gas came out and no obstruction. On the solenoid I found the Knob in the Full counterclockwise position. It would only turn 1/4 turn in the clockwise position using fingers to move, did not try screw driver not knowing if that is all it turns of not. not. Does that sound like the bypass position, or do I need to put a screw driver on it and turn it more one way or the other to get it in the test position? I filled the separator back up with fuel and installed it. I wanted to try a test run on the Generator, but the mechanic had taken the last brass fitting from where the fuel line connects to the generator, he had just left the fuel line laying in the bottom of the hull. I will try to attach pics, can you let me know your comments please?
Fuel FIlter Water Separator spin on .jpg
Gen Fuel Solenoid valve 20220504_152945.jpg
Gen Fuel-Water-Filter Separator Base.jpg
 
Lucky Daug said:
Here is what I found. The fuel water separator/filter and solenoid valve I found on my portside Fuel tank and travels from there to my Generator, there is no other filter in line from there to the generator connection. The water separator looked good, no dirt debris and after letting it set in a glass jar no sign of water. Gas smelled good and no problem for main engines to start on it. I blew the line from there to the Generator and some gas came out and no obstruction. On the solenoid I found the Knob in the Full counterclockwise position. It would only turn 1/4 turn in the clockwise position using fingers to move, did not try screw driver not knowing if that is all it turns of not. not. Does that sound like the bypass position, or do I need to put a screw driver on it and turn it more one way or the other to get it in the test position? I filled the separator back up with fuel and installed it. I wanted to try a test run on the Generator, but the mechanic had taken the last brass fitting from where the fuel line connects to the generator, he had just left the fuel line laying in the bottom of the hull. I will try to attach pics, can you let me know your comments please? View attachment 125922 View attachment 125923 View attachment 125924
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Sorry when I attached the pics those last two of the water separator base and the solenoid valve turned 90 degrees.
 
KevinC said:
We are distributors for Great Lakes Boat Top that made the original canvas for Sea Ray when your boat was new. If you send me your info here: https://www.covemarine.com and I can work up a quote for replacement panels and we can discuss further offline.

-Kevin
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OK, I just submitted my information about my boat on your web link.
 
Lucky Daug said:
Sorry when I attached the pics those last two of the water separator base and the solenoid valve turned 90 degrees.
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1/4 turn should lift the valve off the seat.
 
hughespat57 said:
1/4 turn should lift the valve off the seat.
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Ok thanks, on my radar is to go find the 1/4 nipple that the mechanic must have dropped in the bilge or put in his pocket and then give it a try in the bypass position. I did blow out the line from the fuel separator to the generator and got that older gas out. I guess I will have to use starting fluid because the line will be empty, I did fill the water separator back up with fuel.
 
You should go ahead and replace the fuel water separator while you have it off, good easy insurance. Keep a couple spares on your boat as well.
 
mrsrobinson said:
You should go ahead and replace the fuel water separator while you have it off, good easy insurance. Keep a couple spares on your boat as well.
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OK, I use RockAtuo for buying most my auto engine and body parts etc. in the past and being new to big boats, I was wondering which sites you use to do the same for Mercruiser engine parts and Searay boat parts. If there is any similar to RockAuto? My first engine project is to replace the alternator and water pump on my portside 350 Mag MPI. Any words of wisdom or advice would be highly appreciated.
 
I can't speak for the mercruiser specific parts, regarding the fuel water separators I used to get mine at Napa, they're pretty readily available. Freshwater pump is probably a common GM part, alternator needs to be Marine of course.
 
Last edited:
Have you checked actual fuel flow at the carb? Remove the fuel line at the carb to see if it pumps fuel when starting. This will tell you if the pickup, valve, filters, fuel pump, etc are functioning properly. If you are pumping fuel and If it will only run spraying either and/or on an aux tank, then maybe there is some validity to the mechanics statement.
So far as the valve, there was a post on here not to long ago that referenced the bypass position is when the arrow o the knob to pointing towards the inlet side. Look for the arrow, the screw driver slot has nothing to do with flow direction or setting. Had to troubleshoot mine last season and it was a corroded power wire to the fuel pump as mentioned above.
 
Korkie said:
Have you checked actual fuel flow at the carb? Remove the fuel line at the carb to see if it pumps fuel when starting. This will tell you if the pickup, valve, filters, fuel pump, etc are functioning properly. If you are pumping fuel and If it will only run spraying either and/or on an aux tank, then maybe there is some validity to the mechanics statement.
So far as the valve, there was a post on here not to long ago that referenced the bypass position is when the arrow o the knob to pointing towards the inlet side. Look for the arrow, the screw driver slot has nothing to do with flow direction or setting. Had to troubleshoot mine last season and it was a corroded power wire to the fuel pump as mentioned above.
Click to expand...

Awesome point, I will do that.. I raised hell with the mechanic, after heated argument, he called back and he claims his employee dropped the new carburetor in the drink and told him he installed it and got the unit running and that I needed a new seawater pump because it was leaking. I paid up front for them to order a new $350 seawater pump for the Kohler gen. The mechanic service owner called me back and said he had issues with his relative employee cheating . Last when I was at my boat I tried to start the gen and nothing after I hooked up my own portable fuel tank with brand new fuel, it would not start , I took pics of carb, and it still has factory white paint on it so I know they did not put a new one in. I pulled the plugs and they are major fouled out. I am quickly learning there are lots of scam artists out there on boats now day.. I grew up with integrity and raised to never cheat or deceive anyone.
 
All I can say at this point is wow...
You basically need someone to start at the beginning and trouble shoot properly.
 
As long as you are pumping gas to the carb, the first thing I would do is replace the carb. You can do it yourself. I had same issues you had, start, run a few seconds and stop. Ran great using starting fluid. You can get the carb online. I just PMd you the one i bought 2 seasons ago. Put it on and all issues went away. I now run my genny at least 20 minutes every time we go out and sometimes just because at the slip.
 
Korkie said:
As long as you are pumping gas to the carb, the first thing I would do is replace the carb. You can do it yourself. I had same issues you had, start, run a few seconds and stop. Ran great using starting fluid. You can get the carb online. I just PMd you the one i bought 2 seasons ago. Put it on and all issues went away. I now run my genny at least 20 minutes every time we go out and sometimes just because at the slip.
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I appreciate you information. I will probably have to purchase one. I took the plugs out and they were really fouled out terrible. I got some new plugs but have not made it back to try them out. I hooked a temporary one gallon tank up that I bought on line so I could bypass the other stuff and get it running hopefully.
 
Korkie said:
Have you checked actual fuel flow at the carb? Remove the fuel line at the carb to see if it pumps fuel when starting. This will tell you if the pickup, valve, filters, fuel pump, etc are functioning properly. If you are pumping fuel and If it will only run spraying either and/or on an aux tank, then maybe there is some validity to the mechanics statement.
So far as the valve, there was a post on here not to long ago that referenced the bypass position is when the arrow o the knob to pointing towards the inlet side. Look for the arrow, the screw driver slot has nothing to do with flow direction or setting. Had to troubleshoot mine last season and it was a corroded power wire to the fuel pump as mentioned above.
Click to expand...


Latest Took the gas line off the carburetor and cranked the engine, No Fuel came out.. I had hooked up a temporary portable tank to the suction intake of the new fuel pump. Next, took spark plugs out and no Spark. So, no spark, no fuel flow from new fuel pump, maybe neither is getting power. Waht next, why is there no spark and no fuel coming out of the fuel pump>
 
What is the exact make model and serial number ?

Do you have a volt meter or 12v test light?

It would seem nothing electrical is working.
 
Lucky Daug said:
I appreciate you information. I will probably have to purchase one. I took the plugs out and they were really fouled out terrible. I got some new plugs but have not made it back to try them out. I hooked a temporary one gallon tank up that I bought on line so I could bypass the other stuff and get it running hopefully.
Click to expand...

Latest Took the gas line off the carburetor and cranked the engine, No Fuel came out.. I had hooked up a temporary portable tank to the suction intake of the new fuel pump. Next, took spark plugs out and no Spark. So, no spark, no fuel flow from new fuel pump, maybe neither is getting power. Waht next, why is there no spark and no fuel coming out of the fuel pump>
 
hughespat57 said:
What is the exact make model and serial number ?

Do you have a volt meter or 12v test light?

It would seem nothing electrical is working.
Click to expand...

It is a Kohler Model 5E-BBG, 120/240v, 5000 watts, Serial = 0752445, I did notice it has 3 ceramic fused circuit spots on what appears to be a electrical black box on it. I could not test the ceramic breakers bcuz had no tool to did and I could not read what each fuse went to.
I have a 12 v test light tester in y garage and was thinking of getting a cheap multimeter so I could test things.
 
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