JRMarine or Merc kit?

Zilla

New Member
Jun 15, 2010
4
Oneida Lake NY
Boat Info
'83 260 Sundancer
Engines
350 Mercruiser w/ Alpha One outdrive
i recently purchased a 1983 260 sundancer, 350 merc and alpha one outdrive. i know that my gimbal ring/upper shaft is worn. i guess my question is JRMarine kit or the Merc kit(or other)? an engine pull would be my last resort and paying a mechanic is out of the question considering the cost of parts and labor for an engine pull would be close to what i paid for the boat, and since i have the capability and the resources to do it myself. i am in no way a hack, and i dont want to do something that feels like a hack job on my machine. considering on upgrading to stainless shaft and gimbal ring. im open to any suggestions and or constructive criticism, or a point in the right direction in case i missed this topic while searching threads.

EDIT-- id like to add that while i was replacing the bellows, shift cable and installing an impeller kit i noticed a lot of side to side slop in the gimbal ring. so i tightened the bolts up(before checking the manual)and thought nothing of it. now before you scream at me, i now know what i did was extremely dangerous. the first outing on the water turned out to be OK, considering what could have happened. im just glad i was just out checking for leaks and such and not horseing on it . believe me im kicking myself and relieved at the same time.
thanks in advance
 
Last edited:
guess i got some bad info, i was told they made kits for alpha's
 
I used the JR marine kit on my Bravo and would have hated to do the merc method. Call JR marine and talk to Ron Bender about your alpha.

J-R Marine
1476 E. 359th Street
Eastlake, OH 44095
Phone: 440-946-8717 | Cell: 216-390-1330 | Fax: 440-946-5248
E-mail
 
I've done this. When you replace I would highly recommend a stainless steering shaft. Bergeron Marine in Mesa, AZ makes a great kit. They will custom machine a steering shaft to account for the wear in the gimbal ring. Ask for Phil or Craig. The number is four eight zero - 834-1531.
 
Or buy the stainless shaft from JR marine they are closer to you.
 
i was checking out another forum and saw a post about someone using brass shims to soak up the gap and still kept the recommended 50-55 lb-ft of torque. this seams like it would be a "safer" way to temporarily fix the problem rather than just cranking the hell out of the bolts. ive also read a lot about people just tightening them up without incident, but thats not exactly a risk im willing to take since the wife and kids will be onboard. anyone else heard of shims being used succesfully? and is it as safe?
 
Zilla,

Sent you a PM. But to answer your question. Shims might be able to be used depending on how worn the socket is. But you still have to get the pin out and the gimbal ring clear to insert a shim.

My concern would be that shimming might result in throwing the vertical centerline of the drive off. So that rather than moving the drive from port to starbord 9:00 to 3:00, it might be more like 8:00 to 2:00. That's an exaggeration, but you get the point. What that could do to the drive, driveshaft, u-joint, gimbal bearing and engine coupler alignment is probably not good. It would be a shame to trade a big problem for a bigger one.

Henry
 
The Merc manual recommends re-tourquing the u-bolt nuts every 100hrs. If your gimbal ring is worn out at the top (where it pinches the swivel shaft) you will not be able to tighten it no matter how much you torque it.
 
i had it tight before i took it out and checked it when i got back in and it had some play but not as much as before. it obviously did more damage or stretched the bolts. guess im just gonna have to cough up the cash... she's in mint condition for her age, and id like to keep it that way.
thanks for the info guys, i was dead set on just a temporary fix for a boating trip this weekend, but i think you've saved me from a big headache in the long run
 

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