is there any other 410 415 or 440 ac owners out there

Discussion in 'Sport Yachts/Yachts' started by joe and ali, Mar 2, 2009.

  1. RollerCoastr

    RollerCoastr Well-Known Member

    Nov 15, 2007
    Cedar Point, OH / Miami, FL / MacRay Harbor, MI
    1997 400DA
    340HP 7.4 Mercruiser Bluewaters
    Garmin 8212, 741 24HD, Intellian I2
    1999 280BR
    Twin 250HP Merc 350 Alpha Ones
    My apologies - I missed your question. I'm referring to the rail bases mounted to the deck.
     
  2. jzk

    jzk New Member

    8
    Dec 15, 2010
    Jupiter, FL
    2000 Sea Ray Sundancer 460
    Cummins
    I found all of the through bolts for the aft combing. I think it should be very possible to remove the nuts, and lift up the combing an inch or so to allow some good caulking around the through bolt areas.

    I also have the aft window to deal with. Are there replacement window assemblies available? At a minimum I have to rebed this one and replace the gasket material along the bottom of the window.
     
  3. northshore

    northshore Well-Known Member SILVER Sponsor

    Jan 17, 2011
    Cleveland, OH
    1989 340 Sundancer
    Raymarine E90W Radar/Chartplotter
    Twin 454 Mercruiser 340's
    Where your bow rail attaches to the deck.
     
  4. jzk

    jzk New Member

    8
    Dec 15, 2010
    Jupiter, FL
    2000 Sea Ray Sundancer 460
    Cummins
    So I have had the boat for a couple of days. I found an awesome wifi camera that I can view with my cell phone. The only problem is that it does not want to connect to wifi while in the engine compartment. Do you think it would be ok to leave the engine compartment hatch in the salon open for a few weeks at a time? I would then be able to point the camera down into the bilge and remotely be sure all is well. Plus is that the compartment would benefit from the removal of the moisture from the air conditioning. Maybe a negative would be that the entire boat might take on the smell of the bilge. Thoughts? Thanks!
     
  5. jzk

    jzk New Member

    8
    Dec 15, 2010
    Jupiter, FL
    2000 Sea Ray Sundancer 460
    Cummins
    So I got the camera working by using a wifi extender. The extender is cool because it gives your boat its own personal wifi. The camera has IR lights, so the engine room can be completely dark. I can view from my cell phone or computer from any where and even do pan/tilt/zoom. I will put another under the hardtop.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  6. jzk

    jzk New Member

    8
    Dec 15, 2010
    Jupiter, FL
    2000 Sea Ray Sundancer 460
    Cummins
    So with regard to the leaks, I think what is happening is that water is getting inside of the hollow walls of the cockpit combing. And then it is leaking through the tops of the through bolts. It is not leaking along the edges of the base of the combing.

    So, I was thinking of trying Gluv-it or West Marine's penetrating epoxy. I was going to thin it very good and pour it into the walls of the combing and let it work its way through the leaks. Will this work?

    My other choice is to unscrew the nuts from the bolts down below and pry up the entire combing an inch or two to scrape and caulk around the bolts. There are 2 screws holding down the side door frames also.

    Is there any other product I can just "pour" into the combing and let it self level and penetrate its way through the leaks?
     
  7. jzk

    jzk New Member

    8
    Dec 15, 2010
    Jupiter, FL
    2000 Sea Ray Sundancer 460
    Cummins
    27989809_10215496859844266_1747516429_o.jpg

    This is the inside of the combing wall. You can see 2 bolt tops with a splurch of sealant of them.

    So, as I said, I was thinking of pouring in Gluvit epoxy to just fill the entire base of the combing. It is not like I can really get at the bolts to take them out and clean them up.

    Or, I could pour in a elastomeric roof coating like sta-kool which is available in 5 gallon buckets from home Depot. I used something similar to coat an RV roof once with awesome results.

    I wonder if the gluvit is too hard like an epoxy and will crack. The sta-kool is soft rubber that will flex and is designed to coat roofs which are never perfectly clean. I might even be able to stick some kind of brush down there to work the material. Or I could install some access hatches.

    I was going to drill some drain holes like 1/2" from the base so that if water ever did get in there, it could run out rather than just fill up inside. Then, I could fill up the combing with Sta-Kool or gluvit until it reached the level of the hole, then stop.

    Thoughts?
     

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