Inverter installation

[Vin]

I have a 2000 480 Sedan Bridge with Marvel under the counter refrigerator and freezer. The Xantrex 1800 inverter I bought to power both of these appliances can be hard wired DC and AC and will auto switch to DC when AC shore power or generator power is off. My problem is that we can't get to the back of the refer and freezer to access the existing AC power in order to get the correct neutral wires. The units won't come out because of the wood galley flooring and there is no way around the sides or top for access. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.

 

[Skybolt]

Why don't you power the leg that powers that outlet? Seems that would be easier.

 

[Vin]

Why don't you power the leg that powers that outlet? Seems that would be easier.

That was my thought but I was told that the neutral wires for that outlet behind the refer couldn't be identified and separated from the panel and needed to be for inverter installation. Does that sound right? Thanks.

 

[ttmott]

That was my thought but I was told that the neutral wires for that outlet behind the refer couldn't be identified and separated from the panel and needed to be for inverter installation. Does that sound right? Thanks.

Nope - all of the circuit neutral wires land on a terminal strip behind the 120/240V panel. Easy task to find out what is what on that terminal strip.

 

[Skybolt]

Nope - all of the circuit neutral wires land on a terminal strip behind the 120/240V panel. Easy task to find out what is what on that terminal strip.

@Vin as Tom said, easy task. Just follow the neutral wire to the jacketing and then trace the black wire to the breaker and then you know what's what.

But that made no sense what you were told. The only issue I see in that would be if they daisy chained another outlet off of that one and what was plugged in there.

 

[ttmott]

@Vin as Tom said, easy task. Just follow the neutral wire to the jacketing and then trace the black wire to the breaker and then you know what's what.

But that made no sense what you were told. The only issue I see in that would be if they daisy chained another outlet off of that one and what was plugged in there.

The first receptacle is always the GFCI (boats that have GFCI) then others on that circuit are daisy chained off the GFCI load terminal.

 

[Skybolt]

The first receptacle is always the GFCI (boats that have GFCI) then others on that circuit are daisy chained off the GFCI load terminal.

Yes but he was referring to an inverter install or was that a general statement?

 

[ttmott]

Yes but he was referring to an inverter install or was that a general statement?

A general statement on how circuits are arranged.
If a unique circuit is to be moved over to an inverter (like the port receptacles) the neutral must be moved to the inverter and switched off the boat's neutral buss as a part of the transfer process.

 

[Vin]

Thank you. So without being able to remove the appliances to get to the back where the outlet is how can we determine which are the proper neutral from the buss? Meter with continuity check?

 

[ttmott]

Thank you. So without being able to remove the appliances to get to the back where the outlet is how can we determine which are the proper neutral from the buss? Meter with continuity check?

Easy - plug in a fan or something that can run constantly or make sure the existing appliance is running. Carefully pull one by one neutral from the neutral terminal strip until the fan or appliance does not operate - that will be the circuit. As @dtfeld said sometimes you can look at the wire on the circuit breaker and follow it back to where it's outer jacket is stripped and there you will find the neutral also. Safety first - turn off all power before messing with those neutrals then turn back on to test - they can buzz you good.

 

[km1125]

Thank you. So without being able to remove the appliances to get to the back where the outlet is how can we determine which are the proper neutral from the buss? Meter with continuity check?

You might want to re-look at removing the appliances. They HAVE to be able to come out, as they would need to if they ever went bad and needed to be replaced. I have a hard time imagining that they couldn't come out without just a little work. Usually the hard part is getting them out of the cabin, not getting them out of the cabinet.

 

[dtfeld]

You could take care of this all behind the MDP, as you need a separate neutral buss for the inverted loads any way. You couild split off the fridge and all the boats outlets so you have AC power at all times while you at it.