Inverter Install

[ttmott]

Not mentioned but the neutral conductors for all of the loads on the inverter (those four circuits in your diagram) must have their own neutral buss which ties at the inverter's neutral; very important.... It must be a separate and isolated circuit just like the hot side.
When the inverter transfers to inverted AC power the neutrals also transfer and then the inverter bonds the neutrals to the boat's ground network which will prevent damage to the inverter, eliminate ground loop noise, and prevent the GFCI devices from tripping; not to mention safety.
That brings up the bonding of the inverter chassis to the boat's ground plane; That wire should be able to manage all potential faults which, for this energy level, should be no less than a 4 gauge wire.

 

[BlueYonder]

What kind of switching? Does this inverter have an automatic switch that prevents two sources of ac power from being connected at the same time?

 

[dtfeld]

What kind of switching? Does this inverter have an automatic switch that prevents two sources of ac power from being connected at the same time?

Yes. Has an ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) If the inverter is off, it just passes power through the switch to the attached circuits. If the inverter is On, and there is neither shore or generator power, then the inverter switches to power produced by the inverter.

That's the genius of Ttmott's circuit. The circuits will automatically have a power source priority. Priority will be shore or generator power (determined by the main generator/shore switches), or inverter power if inverter turned on and no other power source available. The switch time on this unit is about 16 ms and is fast enough that most loads wont notice the switch. I believe it matches the sine wave coming in while switching.

 

[northern]

We have similar unit. It is powered by ten 6 volt golf cart batteries. The inverter is also a 120 AMP charger. We run the generator 1 to 2 hours a day. When we get shore power every 3 to 10 days it takes about 8 hours to fully charge the batteries. We run the cabin refrigerator, a bar refrigerator and 6 cabin 120 volt LED lights for about 5 hours a day. The original house batteries were Trojan and they lasted 8 years at the end they had about 50% of the power when new. We use the generator any time we want a large load like stove, kettle or toaster oven. Will run the microwave for a couple of minutes on the inverter. We used to run the ice maker on the inverter but the batteries were below 12 volts most of the time.

 

[dtfeld]

Well been out having surgery, but was able to get this buttoned up with a little help from some friends. Mounted, and wired per TTmott's schematic. Still a few clean up details, a little more wire looming and we should be good. Ordered a 4/0 ground cable.

As some have mentioned, battery capacity is kind of lite, but I'll address that as an upgrade as needed. My thinking is going with 2x 6V golf cart batts, and adding a remote disconnect.

The only question is does the install require a galvanic isolator on the inverter...manual is a little fuzzy about that.

 

[techmitch]

Been following this/your thread with a passion as I love the thought of quiet,... with all of the comforts.
I'm sure Tom will chime in and agree or correct me but my initial thoughts are: As expensive as that DC positive cable is I would cut that loop out and shorten it, and, the AC cables, are those stranded? Don't like the bundle in that pic (hanging/stress/vibration) but my guess is that you have plans for that going forward.

Not bagging on your work man as it looks great, just trying to learn.

 

[dtfeld]

Techmitch. By all means, critique the install. There are some areas that need to be revised/improved, but ran out of time yesterday. My main goal was to get it generally located and verify operation. I'll finish the details and do a full commissioning.

I do not like the DC + cable bundle either. I laid out the cables with a measuring tape, but once the large cables were installed, the routing needed to change, and the cable ended up too long. I may go back and see if my original routing works better. The issue I failed to account for is the cables must attach to the unit at 90 deg increments, or the post covers can not be screwed on. If I keep this configuration, I will shorten the cable. Additionally they need to be sheathed and re-loomed as a final step.

AC side is #10-3 tinned/stranded. I have to go back and add pin crimps to the AC wires as the terminals are setup for solid wire. I had to order in #10's. ABYC code does not allow stranded wire to be installed in a screw down terminal.

For anyone else looking at one of these, you will also require a #10 3 way terminal connector for the ground leads.

 

[dtfeld]

AC panel side completed a couple weeks ago. Added a 30 Amp circuit to feed the inverter, and added new copper bus bar on the power feed. Added separate Com Bus for the 4 circuits powered by/thru the inverter.

 

[dtfeld]

Dave,
Looks good on top of the HW heater. Nice use of that otherwise wasted space.
Are you connecting it to the Port Bank?

No. Using the existing Starboard side house bank. Currently 2 x Grp 31 AGM with a 105 Ah capacity =210 Total and 105 Ah @ 50% discharge. Ttmott added a 3rd Group 31, I may do the same or add couple 6V' at a later date. I think this should be plenty for us on an overnight. We don't get to far away at this point and is likely enough to meet our needs.

 

[AllTideUp]

Neat! I've been looking at Lithium Ion batteries for a few weeks now. I just found this little calculator for estimating your power requirements.

https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/calculator-sizing-a-battery-to-a-load.html

 

[dtfeld]

Had a chance to go back and clean up a few details.

1. Installed 4/0 Chassis Ground wire
2. installed and crimped pin terminals onto stranded wire and installed under screw terminals
3. rerouted + wire to avoid bunched up excess wire.
4. Installed shrink wrap on lugs.

The last details are to add terminal boots to protect exposed terminals, add corregated loom and add a few more wire ties.

 

[spikedaddy99]

Wow. Fantastic job. Mike

 

[GnrlPatton]

I'm finally planning my install, have just purchased the inverter (Xantrex XM1800) and the wiring, fuse and switches. It should all be delivered next week. I'm at the boat this week, and thought I would take a peek behind the panel to see what I'm up against. It looks very similar to tmott's setup, with a few minor differences. Pics with descriptions are attached, I'm basically looking to power the outlet and ice maker circuits only. The ice maker and outlets are on the Line 1 AC circuit, while there's an "Accessory" circuit that I think I also have to power to have the ice maker function on AC Line 2 - I'll investigate that further.

As you can see in the pics, all of my circuits are tied together with the copper bar, so I think I will need to remove that (as opposed to what tmott was able to do by just sliding his down) and jump the loads that won't be on the inverter together. Then I will jump the loads that will be on the inverter together. For the common bus, I have a separate plate right behind the panel with all of the common and grounds together. I think I will add a new copper bar for the 3 (or 2) circuits plus the inverter common/ground. Does this all look right?

Thanks,
Kevin

AC Panel Front:


AC Panel Rear:


Common Bus:

 

[Bt Doctur]

if you tie then to just the inverter they wont work on shore power. tie the inverter to 1 leg of your power plug,
Rating says 20 amp max draw. and a 250 Amp DC fuse required
I`d just stick with the generator if you have one

Electrical specifications – inverter XM 1000 XM 1800Output power (continuous) 1000 W 1800 WSurge rating 2000 W 3600 WOutput current (continuous) 8.3 A 15.0 AOutput voltage range 115 V +/- 10 V 115 V +/- 10 VOutput frequency regulation 60 Hz +/- 1 Hz 60 Hz +/- 1 HzOutput wave form Modified sine wave Modified sine wavePeak efficiency 88% 88%No-load input power (producing output voltage) < 6 W < 6 WPower draw in standby mode < 2 W < 2 WInput opearating voltage range 11.0 - 15.5 Vdc 11.0 - 15.5 VdcTransfer relay rating 15 A 20 ATransfer time 40 ms 40 msGeneral specificationsOperating temperature range 32°F - 104°F (0°C - 40°C) 32°F - 104°F (0°C - 40°C)Storage temperature range -4°F - 140°F (-20°C - 60°C) -4°F - 140°F (-20°C - 60°C)AC receptables 2 2Recommended DC fuse 150 A 250 AUnit weight 8.0 lb (3.6 kg)

 

[GnrlPatton]

if you tie then to just the inverter they wont work on shore power. tie the inverter to 1 leg of your power plug,
Rating says 20 amp max draw. and a 250 Amp DC fuse required
I`d just stick with the generator if you have one

I'm definitely planning to use the generator for the big stuff (water heater, heat pump, etc) but I'm adding the inverter to be able to continue making ice/maintaining the ice level while not having to run the generator.

As I understand from studying tmott's wiring diagram from another thread, the inverter switch "intercepts" power from the Line In for any circuits that you want to power with the inverter using the inverter Line circuit, and then they tie in to the inverter Load circuit. Doing it this way takes advantage of the auto transfer switch in the inverter, so when I'm on shore power or generator, those circuits get fed from that, otherwise they get fed from the inverter. No other circuits would be affected since they remain as is.

This is the wiring diagram I'm talking about:

 

[EKM]

I'm definitely planning to use the generator for the big stuff (water heater, heat pump, etc) but I'm adding the inverter to be able to continue making ice/maintaining the ice level while not having to run the generator.

As I understand from studying tmott's wiring diagram from another thread, the inverter switch "intercepts" power from the Line In for any circuits that you want to power with the inverter using the inverter Line circuit, and then they tie in to the inverter Load circuit. Doing it this way takes advantage of the auto transfer switch in the inverter, so when I'm on shore power or generator, those circuits get fed from that, otherwise they get fed from the inverter. No other circuits would be affected since they remain as is.

This is the wiring diagram I'm talking about:
View attachment 72229

Installing an inverter now. I have a ATS switch in my system. Any idea where to find the TTMott wiring diagram to see if I'm on the right path!
Got 110v from the inverter and need to connect to ATS switch and panel. I'm doing something wrong with my common side.

Thanks….

 

[dtfeld]

Installing an inverter now. I have a ATS switch in my system. Any idea where to find the TTMott wiring diagram to see if I'm on the right path!
Got 110v from the inverter and need to connect to ATS switch and panel. I'm doing something wrong with my common side.

Thanks….

I think it is above in this thread. My recollection is that the common switches a well, but that might only be how the magnum works. On my install, the wires from the shore power come in to the switch and out to the panel.

 

[GnrlPatton]

Installing an inverter now. I have a ATS switch in my system. Any idea where to find the TTMott wiring diagram to see if I'm on the right path!
Got 110v from the inverter and need to connect to ATS switch and panel. I'm doing something wrong with my common side.

Thanks….

Just saw this message, sorry. Was away on a 3+ week trip up to Canada.

The wiring diagram was attached to my post (#35). I studied that for quite a while until it made sense and reconciled what I was seeing on my boat.

I have to say that the setup worked flawlessly during my trip, but it highlighted the fact that I need a better house battery bank if I want to run the cooling (vs. making) setting on my ice maker. That drained down my batteries pretty quickly.

 

[dtfeld]

Any serious cooling process is a huge energy consumer and the only solution is a bigger battery bank. Tom (Ttmott) pointed out the new LiFe batteries coming out that allow more power to be accessed and a much lighter battery. Only downside is the huge cost.

 

[Seapig]

I did a similar mount on my 2005 260 for an 1800w unit. I was disappointed in its abilities. In order to run the microwave, tiny coffee pot, or toy inflator, I had to have the engine running or the DC voltage with a pair of gr 31s would drop below the operational threshold and the inverter would cut out.