Interior delamination

[stephens013]

Looking to buy a 2000 46 Sundancer. Love the boat but Im having an issue with the interior sheeting; the material used in the fabrication of the enterior walls and cabinetry. There is delamination of the material around the out side radius where the material is curved around the walls. Most evident in rounded walls in the salon and the master berth. This is a south Florida boat; ACs and dehumidifier on and all that, question is what now?
Is there any conditioning to stop the delamination? Anyway to cover up/blend in the delamination which is already occurred.

Need some ideas

 

[WV 320 Dancer]

I walked away from a 2007 330 from FLA that had the same issue. Have you had a survey done yet?

 

[dtfeld]

Depends on if you like the boat otherwise, and what you are willing to do to fix it.

In the most simple repairs, all that is needed is some glue to tack the edges back down. For the true delamination of the clear top surface, the correct way is to resurface it.

The worst spot for me is in the companionway coming down the cabin steps. I’m waiting for the fridge to die, and I’ll relaminate when I pull the fridge.

I’ve glued a few edges down with good results. Forget what glue...

 

[TNT8808]

I’ve glued a few edges down with good results. Forget what glue...

I've used Titebond wood glue (although probably many glues would work), and added just a touch of water so that it would work in a syringe, and then injected it into the delaminated area prior to clamping.

-Tom

 

[PlayDate]

Looking to buy a 2000 46 Sundancer. Love the boat but Im having an issue with the interior sheeting; the material used in the fabrication of the enterior walls and cabinetry. There is delamination of the material around the out side radius where the material is curved around the walls. Most evident in rounded walls in the salon and the master berth. This is a south Florida boat; ACs and dehumidifier on and all that, question is what now?
Is there any conditioning to stop the delamination? Anyway to cover up/blend in the delamination which is already occurred.

Need some ideas

How about a few pictures of the areas needing attention.

 

[stephens013]

Would like taking pictures but the boat is in Ft Laderdale and I'm on the Red Neck Riviara. Alex Rowe, the boat broker was kind enough to point the issue out on a face book tour of the vessel. It's not structural, just on the surface containing the veneer and only on the out side radius turns. That's where the surface strain is the most. Just looks tacky, spousal unit isn't to keen on it now that it's been pointed out. Really like the boat, least what's been shown. All this is pursuant to making tentative deal and travel for a face to face. Hate walking away if there were something I can do.

 

[northern]

Heat and humidity will do that to some furniture. To repair furniture to original I have found that a real craftsman is required. Go to a fine furniture store and ask how they repair delaminated table tops. They may have the name of some one. It is not a cheap process but the quality of work is good with a skilled person.

 

[Blueone]

This delamination problem seems to be coming up a lot lately.
If it starts is it something that just keeps on going?... Meaning if you fix one area is another area going to pop up later?... Is the permanent solution to redo the whole thing?

 

[CNYBoater]

when I do lamination for projects I use Titebond III, link below, no affiliation. if you are adhering the veneer to the base wood, this will work. If the clear coat over the finish on the veneer is de-laminating, it will not. foreseeable problems with a DYI repair is getting the adhesive into the joint (accessible with a syringe?), spreading the adhesive lightly across both surfaces for thorough bonding, and lastly, finding away to apply and secure clamping pressure to the surface. if you can find a way to address those three things, this is a great adhesive. Note that if you do want to resurface later this stuff is not going to remove easily, the wood is going to break before the bonded joint.

http://www.titebond.com/product/glues/e8d40b45-0ab3-49f7-8a9c-b53970f736af

 

[stephens013]

Thanks to all. Pretty much it’s a deal of continually messing with it or walk away
Ofcorse there is the third option; lowering the day lights out of the price and using $10 and $20 to cover the mess. Then it’s just a querkie decorating desision

 

[PlayDate]

Just to help you make the decision.....the laminate that is on that boat is referred to as Vitricor. It is not wood veneer. It is a polycarbonate substrate infused with paper that has a wood grain image on it. Over time and depending on moisture conditions....the adhesive originally applied to attach the material releases. When that happens, the laminate is usually damaged because the paper and the polycarbonate sheet separate making any repair pretty obvious.

For full disclosure....I own Restoration Marine which has dealt with this issue worldwide for the past 12 years. Most of the material we sell goes on Sea Ray boats to repair damaged laminate. That said, we have had several owners change the entire finish on their boat just to update it. Some repair the boat prior to sale and others get a discount on the boat when they buy it and update the boat on their schedule.

The only issue is what finish is on the boat you are considering. Several finishes are no longer in production which makes certain boats less attractive for purchase since repairing the boat requires a finish change. Your spouse shouldn't be worried. Updating the interior is one of the best things you can do to make the boat your own.

Feel free to email me at: john@restorationmarine.com

 

[stephens013]

Just to help you make the decision.....the laminate that is on that boat is referred to as Vitricor. It is not wood veneer. It is a polycarbonate substrate infused with paper that has a wood grain image on it. Over time and depending on moisture conditions....the adhesive originally applied to attach the material releases. When that happens, the laminate is usually damaged because the paper and the polycarbonate sheet separate making any repair pretty obvious.

For full disclosure....I own Restoration Marine which has dealt with this issue worldwide for the past 12 years. Most of the material we sell goes on Sea Ray boats to repair damaged laminate. That said, we have had several owners change the entire finish on their boat just to update it. Some repair the boat prior to sale and others get a discount on the boat when they buy it and update the boat on their schedule.

The only issue is what finish is on the boat you are considering. Several finishes are no longer in production which makes certain boats less attractive for purchase since repairing the boat requires a finish change. Your spouse shouldn't be worried. Updating the interior is one of the best things you can do to make the boat your own.

Feel free to email me at: john@restorationmarine.com

Sounds great. Thought I had heard of something along what you stated. I would love finding out more.
This the great thing about the SeaRay forums; information like this

 

[Mike Gillies]

Any progress on finding a fix for the de-lamination issue on the 2005+ cabinets? I am in the market for a 2005-2008 50/52DB. Most of the ones I have looked at have varying degrees of de-lamination. Any help would be much appreciated.

 

[hottoddie]

I recently had 2 picture frames with similar delamination that I fixed using a clothes iron. The adhesive is a type of contact cement that can be reactivated using heat. Worked like charm. I suspect a hair dryer with pressure applied might produce similar results.

 

[PlayDate]

Any progress on finding a fix for the de-lamination issue on the 2005+ cabinets? I am in the market for a 2005-2008 50/52DB. Most of the ones I have looked at have varying degrees of de-lamination. Any help would be much appreciated.

Mike,

Nothing new from our end. It is really frustrating since the material is no longer available and the skills required to do the work are more demanding than normal laminate.

Your choices really haven't changed. Like a dated kitchen.....sometimes you need to fund a finish refresh especially if you really like the boat and plan on keeping it for a while. The people who are selling the boats know the Lignapal story because we have probably gotten calls from most of them over the years.

Finish refreshes are not cheap because like a kitchen.....once you start....you add more things to the list like carpet and the soft finishes. The hardest part is finding craftsman to do the work. Replacement materials (except for Lignapal) are readily available. We provide quotes to prospective buyers at least a dozen times a year which they use to knock down seller prices. Only a few have actually followed through with doing the work when they buy the boat. Most are content to live with the finish issues "until it gets worse".

 

[Chris-380]

Did you put the iron right on a towel that pushed against the laminate, exactly how did you do it. I don’t have much of an issue at all, but this is great info

I recently had 2 picture frames with similar delamination that I fixed using a clothes iron. The adhesive is a type of contact cement that can be reactivated using heat. Worked like charm. I suspect a hair dryer with pressure applied might produce similar results.

 

[PlayDate]

Did you put the iron right on a towel that pushed against the laminate, exactly how did you do it. I don’t have much of an issue at all, but this is great info

Chris,

I think @hottoddie was discussing a picture frame.

To your question.....the original glue SR used releases around 120-130 degrees. So, a heat gun, hairdryer and an iron could work although I would put a sheet of brown paper between the iron surface and the laminate finish. Just keep in mind that the polycarbonate on the old Vitricor starts melting around 140 degrees so be careful.

 

[Chris-380]

Chris,

I think @hottoddie was discussing a picture frame.

To your question.....the original glue SR used releases around 120-130 degrees. So, a heat gun, hairdryer and an iron could work although I would put a sheet of brown paper between the iron surface and the laminate finish. Just keep in mind that the polycarbonate on the old Vitricor starts melting around 140 degrees so be careful.

Lol, that’s what I get for speed reading!