How To Replace and Improve the Sea Ray Systems Monitor

... FWIW, our ProMariner ProTech1240 (from 2002) was labeled as a "converter" -- and I've seen others in the AC-to-DC direction labeled that way too. Seems the DC-to-AC direction is consistently labeled "inverter" these days...

Exceptions to every rule it seems. But the ProNautic series are labeled as battery chargers. They also have inverters that are just that AC inverters. But yeah, I have seen "converter" used at times but not as label. Isn't the ProTech the same series as the Promatic that the OP has?
 
Yes, it's possible to drop from 12.6-ish to 12.0-ish over 2 weeks. Not great, though. Partially a feature of flooded lead acid batteries. And more likely with cheap batteries. It also suggests you've maybe got some other kind of constant load there too, not just the systems monitor. Some other typical "always on" loads include stereo memory, CO detectors, bilge pumps, horn compressor, maybe some others...




FWIW, our ProMariner ProTech1240 (from 2002) was labeled as a "converter" -- and I've seen others in the AC-to-DC direction labeled that way too. Seems the DC-to-AC direction is consistently labeled "inverter" these days...

-Chris

This is correct. Standard terminology is that you "convert" from AC to DC. And you "invert" when going from DC to AC.
 
Exceptions to every rule it seems. But the ProNautic series are labeled as battery chargers. They also have inverters that are just that AC inverters. But yeah, I have seen "converter" used at times but not as label. Isn't the ProTech the same series as the Promatic that the OP has?
Charger/Converter - this is both a battery charger and power supply for the boat's DC loads. Pretty much all marine chargers are both these days. Charger/Converter is a rather old term.
 
Charger/Converter - this is both a battery charger and power supply for the boat's DC loads. Pretty much all marine chargers are both these days. Charger/Converter is a rather old term.

Yep, the ProNautic that a lot on here have, including myself, is just that. Works great as a power supply. I have mine connected to the switched side of the battery switch(s) and have ran the dc side of the boat from that.
 
Isn't the ProTech the same series as the Promatic that the OP has?

Apparently not, based on the pic Noname posted. Says Professional Mariner (prior version of ProMariner?) and Alltech Series, 30-3... and doesn't look like the 2002 ProTech we had. Maybe pre-dates ProTech series? Or maybe was a slightly different product line?

-Chris
 
Ok, so headed to the boat with a new inductive amp probe,(thanks Mitch), two multi meters and a new 12V test light with voltage reading. I think Skybolt may be right. Couldn’t find a draw over 1 amp with batteries off anywhere. System Monitor breaker on or off. I tested the battery cables, the 12V red wire from the breaker to the Systems Monitor, and numerous other breakers etc. I guess coincidence the lead battery in the port bank has died two years in a row. I never left the charger on when I left the boat. Especially after the one battery started to melt down on its own. Not sure what would have happened if I wasn’t there to pick up on that and disconnect it from ground. Either way, I will be replacing the charger, most likely with the ProMariner 12-40. Still not sure I’ll be leaving it on 24/7. I want to run through my bonding system because I’m concerned about electrolysis. Would the best way be to just check continuity or do I need to check resistance? Some of the grounding buss bars are corroded but not terrible. Also one strange thing when checking amperage and voltages. With the starboard batteries completely disconnected, I was getting 6-8V on the starboard unswitched
579E4AAF-6DC4-4215-9B91-D3D19963D9B8.jpeg
side of the breaker panel. I’m guessing it’s coming through the emergency start solenoid or battery solenoids? Anyway, can’t thank you guys enough. Much appreciated.
 
@NonameBurkard But to answer your question, the bonding system should just be inspected and cleaned as needed. Continuity and resistance in this case are basically the same thing. And are next to impossible to measure out. Most of the bonding is daisy chained and also tied in with the boats DC grounding systems. This also gets into stray current with the AC system. Also another thread on that alone. I have one in the electrical section and a lot of questions are answered there.

As to the bad battery, on boats, you should always pull the positive not the negative. Boats have multiple grounding points and sometimes the current can find another path. That's why breakers turn off the hot side of things.

As to the 6-8v, they are bad battery(s).

Edit: @NonameBurkard Here is a great thread explaining the stray current stuff and @ttmott Tom has some great input and helps explain a lot.

http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/dock-stanchion-gfci-breakers-and-your-boat.110857/
 
I was reviewing the different Maretron products and was looking at the fuel tank monitoring. My question is it looks like it replaces the stock level sensor. if so does that mean the dash gauges have no display now?
 
I was reviewing the different Maretron products and was looking at the fuel tank monitoring. My question is it looks like it replaces the stock level sensor. if so does that mean the dash gauges have no display now?
The tank monitoring devices by Maretron are NMEA 2000. For your boat, you are correct that the OEM gauges will no longer indicate liquid level as they depend upon resistive senders.
 
I was reviewing the different Maretron products and was looking at the fuel tank monitoring. My question is it looks like it replaces the stock level sensor. if so does that mean the dash gauges have no display now?

One good thing about the Maretron TLM sensors is they report tank remaining levels. Coupled with the DSM410 you can actually get to the gallon fuel usage. And also are able to display total fuel remaining, both and or single tanks. Believe it or not, these senders are what started me in NMEA 2000 almost a decade ago.
 
I watched this video and it really made me think about it. I already have the FPM 100.


Curious, what are you using this for and how are you displaying the data?

EDIT: The sensors for the the FPM cost as much as the TLM100.
 
I plan on using it for the turbos boost

While the FPM will report the pressure it reads, it will not report it in the proper engine PGN 127488, it will only report PGN's 127505 Fluid Level and 130314 Actual Pressure.

That means any display that is capable of displaying turbo boost will not display the the data from the FPM. You need to use a device capable of populating the turbo boost parameter of the 127488 engine parameter PGN. Then it will be available on MFD's that can display engine parameters like Garmin and Raymarine.

So that also means the the pressure will only display on a properly setup DSM410.
 
While the FPM will report the pressure it reads, it will not report it in the proper engine PGN 127488, it will only report PGN's 127505 Fluid Level and 130314 Actual Pressure.

That means any display that is capable of displaying turbo boost will not display the the data from the FPM. You need to use a device capable of populating the turbo boost parameter of the 127488 engine parameter PGN. Then it will be available on MFD's that can display engine parameters like Garmin and Raymarine.

So that also means the the pressure will only display on a properly setup DSM410.

correct I'm using a dsm410
 
Another one addicted!!
 

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