How to clean the sea strainer

[Presentation]

How to clean the sea strainer

Our last boat, a 240DA had none.

As far as I know, this boat has one for the A/C. I see a big brass fitting in the bilge.

Do I buy a new filter? Do I just open it up and wash it out?

How about the shiny A/C air filter beneath the table in the cabin. Do I clean this or replace it?

This has me wondering what other maintenance items I am missing. I did read thru Jeremy’s list and that is how I came across the strainer. At this time I have no Generator but I hope to add one.

 

[raffles]

Shut off the seacock, open the sea strainer and take out the basket and clean any debris out - pretty simple.

 

[Alex D]

How to clean the sea strainer

Our last boat, a 240DA had none.

As far as I know, this boat has one for the A/C. I see a big brass fitting in the bilge.

Do I buy a new filter? Do I just open it up and wash it out?

How about the shiny A/C air filter beneath the table in the cabin. Do I clean this or replace it?

This has me wondering what other maintenance items I am missing. I did read thru Jeremy’s list and that is how I came across the strainer. At this time I have no Generator but I hope to add one.

Sounds like you have only found the sea cock so far and not the strainer?!? It should be not far from the cock ... just follow the hose ....

If you find it, close cock, open small lid on top, remove strainer and reinsert, close lid and open sea cock.
The a/c filter is an air stream filter if we both think about the same thing here. It can be washed out by blasting water from a garden hose through it.

 

[Sea Ray 300]

Shut off the seacock, open the sea strainer and take out the basket and clean any debris out - pretty simple.

And clean the air filter serving the A/C unit.
Just a quick rinse with the hose for both.
Don't forget to open the seacock when your done.

It's as simple as that.

In the fall, we'll discuss winterizing the A/C unit, but in the meantime, enjoy.

 

[Presentation]

Thank you :thumbsup:

I will do both the strainer and the filter this weekend.

I will also be installing my re-charged holding tank vent filter.

 

[gerryb]

The A/C system actually has 2 "filters" and both need to be cleaned regularly to keep the unit working properly and minimize the funky A/C smell. There is an aluminum filter in the vent and a black mesh filter placed in front of the condensing coils on the unit itself. I remember from SRO someone mentioned they replaced them both with a homemade filter using a higher quality media filter (like 3m for home units). Thought that was a good idea but never tried it myself.

 

[Sea Ray 300]

There is an aluminum filter in the vent

Gerry, I don't recall an aluminum filter.
What vent are you referring to?

 

[Alex D]

There is an aluminum filter in the vent

Gerry, I don't recall an aluminum filter.
What vent are you referring to?

The aluminum mesh filter on my unit is actually on the inlet side of the evaporator (not condenser! The condenser is water cooled.)
I pull it once a month and take a garden hose to it to flush out all the dust that gets filteres there. That is the only air filtering device on my unit.

 

[Sea Ray 300]

There is an aluminum filter in the vent

Gerry, I don't recall an aluminum filter.
What vent are you referring to?

The aluminum mesh filter on my unit is actually on the inlet side of the evaporator (not condenser! The condenser is water cooled.)
I pull it once a month and take a garden hose to it to flush out all the dust that gets filteres there. That is the only air filtering device on my unit.

Thanks Alex,
As far as I know, that is exactly how mine is set up, and that is the filter that I clean.
I am not familiar with a second filter.

Gerry, if yours has a second filter, try to let me know where it is, and I'll have a look at mine. Thanks...

 

[Robski97]

Only older dancers would have the metal filters.If i had to date it i would GUESS 03 and older.... only one filter should be used at all times which should be located on the evap coil.

Rob

PS clean the filter monthly

 

[Asureyez]

Crusair Filters

On these metal A/C filters ... when cleaning them a word of caution. When they get old the aluminim media becomes a little brittle and a strong water stream will rip this stuff right out of the grids.

The trouble is these filters are HE** to replace. "Like" there are no replacement filter parts in the supply chain.

I blew out one and have hand to use flimsey cardboat replacements that sux bad ever since.

Save what you got boys.

 

[Asureyez]

Sea Strainers

You boat will have at least 2-3 strainers. The most critical are those for the engine(s). These strain out grass, fish, shell and junk from reaching the raw water impellers that pump sea water into your heat exchangers/cooling systems. These should be checked for debris immediately before firing up the engines EVERY TIME you go boating. These strainers must be kept free of sand, shell and other debris in order to achieve proper engine cooling.

Sea Strainers come in several styles. Strainers that re integral to a sea cock (rare in modern boats), Marine Bronze sight glass type from small to huge in size (made by Groco), and then those that would be similar in construction to a two part plastic water filter .. a screw off clear plastic cup which holds the screen and a head unit. The latter is common on sea water cooled small boat air conditioners, and refrigeration units although are used on small engines in the 10-20 HP range as well.

I don't know which is on your boat.

But most strainers are of the bronze "Groco" style so here is how you clean and service these units.

The strainer will generally have an input hose leading from a sea cock, close that sea cock completely.

In general the tops of these units will have lids locked down by wing nuts which when both are backed off just a few turns one can be rocked aside (its in a fork) to allow one end to be lifted and rotated away from the top lip of the strainer body to access the strainer basket.

This basket is removed by simply pulling up on the basket, Note: make note of the orientation of the basket handle and return the clean basket to the same orientation.

(It is a good idea to have a small plastic bucket handy to pop the basket into to get it off the boat.)

Flush the basket clean of debris (not in the bilge mind you) and replace it so it nests on a pin in the bottom and the basket will locks into place, the handle should be lower and below the top rim of the strainer. (If the basket has any tears or unintended holes in the pattern, replace it with anew one.)

With the lid then replaced shift it until it nests firmly on the lip and the swing away stud and wing nut returned to vertical between the forks of the lid, turn each nut one revolution each until the lid is dogged down evenly on both sides.

Dry off the entire lid area with a towel for later observation for leaks.

Then open the sea cock completely for each engine

Then observe and confirm that the lids are not leaking water. If they leak water they will leak air later when under way and the engine pumps can run dry. If the lid(s) are leaking, you've not seated the lid gasket perfectly and you'll need to loosen the wing nuts until you can move the lid slightly enough "feel" it settle into the gasket and then re tighten. Dry the top of the unit again and look for leaks. Repeat as required.

Perhaps every three months the lid gasket will benefit from application of a small amount of silicone grease. I prefer "Super Lube" and a dollop the size half that of a dime is plenty. Put it on the tip of your finger and smear it evenly over the entire gasket face as evenly as possible, (No Globs please). The grease will help to maintain the strainer lid gasket supple and minimize leaking.

Besides cleaning and lubing the lid gasket there is more. No Sea Strainer is maintenance free. Every three to five years the sea cocks should be shut off, the input and out put hoses removed, the hoses checked the clamps replaced (in saltwater use only 316 stainless clamps below the waterline), and the entire strainer unit disassembled on the bench/dock. The sight glass cleaned, the old gaskets removed completely, the bronze cleaned entirely and new gaskets seated (remember the Super Lube, there are normally three gaskets on these "Groco" units) and the unit reassembled. The the strainer is reattached to the boat and the hoses replaced and double clamped. Remember that clamps below the waterline are the only thing keeping your boat afloat!

A word on clamps: any hose clamps used below the waterline should always be doubled where ever possible, they should be of 316 stainless and not the auto type, and they should be as wide as two will fit on the hose flange. Clamps should be installed so as the screw downs are not aligned and these are best installed when the screw downs are 180 degrees apart. Use the plastic tips on the band ends to avoid "meat hook" skin snags to reduce ER cuts.

You should be able to clean 3-4 strainers in less the time it took me to type this out!

 

[Four Suns]

This is what happens to an impeller on the engine in about 10 minutes if you forget to open the seacock after cleaning the strainers...

 

[Asureyez]

Jeremy's List

Presentation:

I couldn't find a "List" attributed to Jeremy, can you send me a link so I can determine what is on your list?

Chad

 

[Presentation]

Re: Jeremy's List

Presentation:
I couldn't find a "List" attributed to Jeremy, can you send me a link so I can determine what is on your list?
Chad

Thank you for the above :thumbsup:

I will find Jeremy's post and update this with a link.

I don't think my engines have thru-hulls. I think the only one that goes thru the hull below the water line is for the A/C.

 

[Presentation]

Re: Jeremy's List

Presentation:

I couldn't find a "List" attributed to Jeremy, can you send me a link so I can determine what is on your list?

Chad

Here:

http://www.byowneryachts.com/forums/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3406&highlight=grease+gimbal

 

[Asureyez]

A few Additions

Jeremy's list didn't address a other items that should be SOP as well but not all are in the ER. I'd recommend adding these to Jeremy's list for a well rounded maintenance schedule.

Engine Room: Once a season or every six months or 100 Hrs:

• Air Filter cleaning and or replacement.
  Check all below water line hose clamps for corrosion and leaks
  Check Ground/Bonding straps to make sure they are clean and tight.
  Check Battery cables, clean and re grease
  Check Battery cable connection to Starter(s) make sure these are clean & tight
  Replace engine & Genny zincs
  Inspect and replace as Required. Genny belt
  Inspect the spares, make sure everything is usable

Helm/Cockpit: One per season or Semi Annually

• Check all electronic connections tighten as necessary
  Remove any corrosion on electronic connections and treat
  Check VHF Antenna cable connection @ both ends, clean and reconnect.
  Inspect/clean electrical connection to windlass (if any)
  Lubricate Windless as per Mfg. Directions
  Inspect /Clean horn connections
  Inspect and replace. Windscreen wipers & washer system
  Shore power cables, and terminal ends clean/repair/patch as Required.
  Dock lines, inspect and replace any frayed or cut lines
  Inspect fenders, inflate as Required., clean to like new
  Inspect Anchor rode for wear replace if frayed
  Inspect Anchor for bends or cracked welds, check thimbles, shackles, swivels and the seizings on each for cracks lube threads are Required.

Safety: Annually

• Inspect Fire extinguishers, weigh and shake dry chem's vigorously
  Inspect all emergency beacons, run internal tests.
  Inspect all inflatable Life Preservers & rescue devices, service as Required.
  Inspect flares, replace as Required.
  Inspect contents of Abandon Ship Bag service/Replace as needed
  Inspect the First Aid Kit replace and replenish as Required.

Cabin: Monthly Inspection Service as Required.

• Open and clean gray water sump box,
  Clean air condition evaporator pan blow out drain hose
  Refrigeration seals
  Head valves and operation
  Faucet drips

So much for planned maintenance. I recommend you keep a multi tool in your pocket whenever aboard. If somethings loose tighten it, if its corroded wire brush it and lube it or paint it. Fix it now if you can, If you can't do it then ... then log it promptly before you forget it. Once back at the dock do it ASAP before you leave the boat. If I can't do it then, I tape a big note to my self on the galley cab. door so I remember to do it upon my return.

I can't speak for others, but I find one hour of truly enjoyable time on the water is supported by 2 - 4 hours of somewhat enjoyable maintenance at the dock. For me, but then I might be a masochist, I've come to enjoy taking care of my boat. I know it bolsters my confidence in my boat and my sense of pride in having the boat in my life.

 

[Robski97]

Gary,
How'd u forget....


Rob

 

[Stray Cat]

Doug - just a note if your boat has a Groco strainer....when you reinstall the filter basket, make certain the handle on the basket is perpendicular to the water flow from inlet to outlet. This seals the basket properly in the housing. If the handle is inline with the inlet and outlet, it may by-pass weeds or critters....this was professed to me by a Groco tech service rep...