How much chain and what size for my anchor on my 310DA

[craigwitt]

Can anyone tell me what is the best length of chain for my 310 DA? I have a winless and the book says it comes with 125' of 5/16 galvanized. I currently have a Chain leeder with rope after that and want to make it all chain. Is it recommended I do so? If so, how long?
Thanks

 

[Lazy Daze]

There's a couple variables at play here, so there's really no way to give you a definitive answer. The type of bottom that you typically anchor in and your personal preference for chain and the amount, for example.

But... my opinion... if you do indeed have 125', you have plenty of chain - plenty. I would just take a look at the chain for wear and pay special attention to the back splice where the rope meets the chain. If it's looking worn, cut off a foot and resplice (or even flip the rope end for end).

Did you physically measure the chain?

 

[craigwitt]

I anchor mainly in sandy bottoms. It is currently partial chain (about 10') and the rest is rope. I was considering switching over to all chain. Thoughts?

 

[Lazy Daze]

OK, so you don't need the chain for abrasion resistance (rocks). Do you anchor out over night?

The anchor will obviously hold better with all chain, but the cost will be MUCH more weight in your bow. Upside is better hole shot, downside is slightly lower fuel economy and the cost of the chain.

If it was me...

Never overnighting - maybe a total of 20', although what you have is fine, too. You can overnight with no chain, by the way, but that's what I would prefer for myself.

Overnighting - at least 25' of chain. Max of 50'. But again, that is what I would do. Personally, I wouldn't do all chain.

 

[craigwitt]

Ok thanks. I think I will measure the chain, make sure I have at least the 25', and stick with the rope and check the connections. Thanks for the input and happy boating!

 

[Happy Hour IV]

Intuitively a lot of chain decreases performance. So many years ago I took my 340DA for a run with the 200' chain left on the dock. I have flowscans and GPS.

What I found is that I had to use a lot more trim tab to stay on plane. The best mileage was with the chain onboard. The best mileage speed was also higher with the chain onboard.

My 1988 DA is know to be ass heavy from the factory so the chain in the bow is needed. Your boat may not be so afflicted.

With chain I rarely have to do more than drop the anchor. With rope I find scope is more important and getting the first set is sometimes a problem.

I would figure out a way to load up the bow with weight equivalent to all chain and see how she performs first.

 

[CAMELLA]

To add to the above, chain works better in the windlass than rode(rope), it doesn't slip.

 

[Hellman Huddle]

Good answer! All chain is the way to go if you anchor a lot. Will not slip or bunch in the gypsum and comes in handing for rafting up with other boats. The weight is not an issue, you are only talking 150lbs for your boat. I have 125' of 1/4" and your boat length would need 5/16". Beware of advice from non anchoring boaters/floating condos. Best source for anchor chain: https://www.secosouth.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=65a522a7970712d666aa8f46f20ae905&

Intuitively a lot of chain decreases performance. So many years ago I took my 340DA for a run with the 200' chain left on the dock. I have flowscans and GPS.

What I found is that I had to use a lot more trim tab to stay on plane. The best mileage was with the chain onboard. The best mileage speed was also higher with the chain onboard.

My 1988 DA is know to be ass heavy from the factory so the chain in the bow is needed. Your boat may not be so afflicted.

With chain I rarely have to do more than drop the anchor. With rope I find scope is more important and getting the first set is sometimes a problem.

I would figure out a way to load up the bow with weight equivalent to all chain and see how she performs first.

 

[Alex F]

IMO, anywhere in the range of 120-150' should work well for you. It's plenty of chain to anchor almost in any situation. It'll provide some extra weight at the bow where you'll be able to ease of the trim tabs, which translates in better performance.

 

[dpmulvey]

IMO, anywhere in the range of 120-150' should work well for you. It's plenty of chain to anchor almost in any situation. It'll provide some extra weight at the bow where you'll be able to ease of the trim tabs, which translates is better performance.

+1.

I have a couple of hundred feet plus chain in Saint Max. Once I'm set, I'm set even when others are adjusting in tough tides and winds. I find the use of snubbers helps a lot in offsetting the shock.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Weight is an issue - which is why it makes a difference in hole shot. This isn't weight in the center of the boat - it's at the end of the lever. Minimal difference when it comes to fuel economy. It's quite possible that the decreased hole shot time will counteract the slight increase in added weight.

Remember, it all comes down to how YOU will use (or anticipate using) the boat. Personally, I wouldn't want all chain - I need a good 300' of rode (and I carry an extra 200'). But again, that's me... not you or someone else. But, even in a small cruiser, I still have 50' of chain.

Like I mentioned, there's a number of variables. You'll get lots of opinions - and all are good. Just do what you feel is best for you.

 

[vandal]

Call imtra they can get you a price very expencive. With lofrans it is G4 metric chain that is used American chain will not work. 50 chain and 200 rope 5/8 is $600.00.

 

[rcknecht]

I have '100, but I anchor in shallow waters... The weight in the bow is great, and the more the better, especially if you carry a dinghy on your stern. With me it was a matter of cost, the chain is not cheap. You can't use hardware store Chinese chain. I had to use BBB calibrated chain for my progress II Lofrans windless. SEE: http://1st-chainsupply.com/chain/gbbb_windlass_chain.htm#a516