How much anti freeze...

[steevireno]

Need to know if I should be adding more anti freeze... Here's the situation:

I have a question about quantity of antifreeze in the sea water cooling system. I have a 5.0 MPI with a Bravo III (2008 Sundeck 210). I drained my engine and cooling system (3 Point system) and almost 5 gallons of water came out. Pulled the main cooling hose (large one) off of the thermostat and filled - it took about 3 1/2 gallons before the AF came generously back out of the thermostat housing. With the remaining 1 1/2 gallons I had, I added to the two other hoses on the thermostat (manifolds). The AF came back to the thermostat but I didn't hear/see any coming our of the exhaust ports as I was informed by the dealer and others I have spoken with. I even disconnected one of the hoses off of the manifold (top front) and added a bit, but still nothing out the back.

The AF did drip out of the my intake ports on the drive. Should I be concerned nothing came out the exhaust? I don't want to add to much AF as I fear it could either end up in the the exhaust valves or other places it doesn't belong.

 

[Capt Bob F]

Not sure why you are going through all that trouble. Warm up the engine with your muffs to open the thermostat. Pull the plugs (If a mercruiser, should be blue) Let the water drain out. Put the plugs back in and run about 4 gallons of antifreeze through using this (or a make shift one):

When the anti freeze is about gone, fog your engine until it dies, if it doesn't die turn off the key.

 

[Larry]

Need to know if I should be adding more anti freeze... Here's the situation:

I have a question about quantity of antifreeze in the sea water cooling system. I have a 5.0 MPI with a Bravo III (2008 Sundeck 210). I drained my engine and cooling system (3 Point system) and almost 5 gallons of water came out. Pulled the main cooling hose (large one) off of the thermostat and filled - it took about 3 1/2 gallons before the AF came generously back out of the thermostat housing. With the remaining 1 1/2 gallons I had, I added to the two other hoses on the thermostat (manifolds). The AF came back to the thermostat but I didn't hear/see any coming our of the exhaust ports as I was informed by the dealer and others I have spoken with. I even disconnected one of the hoses off of the manifold (top front) and added a bit, but still nothing out the back.

The AF did drip out of the my intake ports on the drive. Should I be concerned nothing came out the exhaust? I don't want to add to much AF as I fear it could either end up in the the exhaust valves or other places it doesn't belong.

What you are doing is not the correct process for winterizing, I would never pour AF into an engine while it is not running for exactly the reason you stated above. You can use the system mentioned above, but one way or another you need to get anti freeze up into the pump and have it circulate around the engine and let it come out the exhaust. I would either warm the motor up to operating temp or to be sure I would pull the thermostat.

 

[Lazy Daze]

NO, he is doing it exactly correctly. Yes, you can use that bucket method, although it's not the way myself or our shop would recommend, but it can be done. Obviously I like the good old fashioned normal way, but if one prefers the bucket method, that's OK. Just make sure you still drop the water out, first.

The tough part, I think, about the bucket method is the timing between the anti-freeze and the fogging. How does one only use 4 or 5 gallons, but also ensure that the fogging mixture (MPI engine) hasn't been diluted too much - or is totally gone?

The block hose takes care of the whole block and t-stat. The exhaust hoses take care of the exhaust side. Bumping the engine a few times takes care of extra water in pump (or pulling the hoses).

 

[wish2fish]

......
How does one only use 4 or 5 gallons, but also ensure that the fogging mixture (MPI engine) hasn't been diluted too much - or is totally gone?
.........

I used Star Brite EZ Stor-EZ Start to stablize the fuel plus fog the engine. Put in before warming up the engine giving it plenty of time to get into the system.

Starbrite EZ Store/EZ Start

 

[steevireno]

Thanks for the responses guys.

My dealer recommends NOT using the AF through the muffs process. Granted, AF is not REQUIRED as just draining will suffice. However, we all know metal doesn't like moisture and air so the rust inhibitor properties of the AF are a good thing.

Did a little checking on my motor and it seems the AF got everywhere it needed to be.

Dennis - one thing that was also recommended by Jim, was to pull the AF cooler hoses and drain. Turns out there was no water in there as it drained with the rest, but he said it could get stuck in there and burst the cooler housing.

 

[sbw1]

The tough part, I think, about the bucket method is the timing between the anti-freeze and the fogging. How does one only use 4 or 5 gallons, but also ensure that the fogging mixture (MPI engine) hasn't been diluted too much - or is totally gone?

My Crusader manual says not to fog an MPI engine as it screws of the sensors. Instead the recommended way is to squirt a little fogging oil into each cylinder through the spark plug holes. How do you do the fogging on MPI engines?

 

[Lazy Daze]

My Crusader manual says not to fog an MPI engine as it screws of the sensors. Instead the recommended way is to squirt a little fogging oil into each cylinder through the spark plug holes. How do you do the fogging on MPI engines?

I guess each manufacturer has their own recommendations. Merc says to put a couple of ounces of 2-cycle into the fuel filter. We do hundreds of boats every year that way. Most are EFI and MPI. I do my own boats that way, too.

Possibly, Crusader uses some extra/different sensors than Merc?

But, that's were it gets tough with the timing process - you don't want to put too much 2-cycle in. But, you don't want to run the engine for too long since the mixture will then have dissipated.

 

[sbw1]

I thought you were describing the old method of pouring 20 wt. oil into the air intake like we used to do with carburators. Re-read your post. Makes sense now.

 

[berth control]

I did my buddies boat last night, it is a raw water cooled motor from a 95 four winns. We used the hose and muffs to warm it up. Then shut it off and switch to my big funnel that hooks up to the muffs into which I pour 5 gallons of RV antifreeze while he runs the motor again. I know it's different because it's not a closed-cooling system.

My boat is a closed cooling system, I have only pulled the raw water plug from the heat exchanger to winterize it. I've done it a couple times now, no troubles.

 

[Lazy Daze]

We used the hose and muffs to warm it up. Then shut it off and switch to my big funnel that hooks up to the muffs into which I pour 5 gallons of RV antifreeze while he runs the motor again.

Eric, the downside there is that you ended up diluting the AF since the water wasn't dropped out of the block and manifolds, first. You'll probably want to add some more pink.

 

[berth control]

Eric, the downside there is that you ended up diluting the AF since the water wasn't dropped out of the block and manifolds, first. You'll probably want to add some more pink.

I get what you are saying, good point. After about two gallons I start to see a light pink come out the exhaust. After the third gallon it is bright pink, then we ran two more gallons to be sure. Because of that I thought we got it all. Do you still think I should add more?

 

[Lazy Daze]

I get what you are saying, good point. After about two gallons I start to see a light pink come out the exhaust. After the third gallon it is bright pink, then we ran two more gallons to be sure. Because of that I thought we got it all. Do you still think I should add more?

I'd like to be able say that 5 gallons is enough. But I'm just not comfortable telling you that. You get some pretty cold winters, right? All I can say is that, if it was me, I'd want to be 100% sure that my engine is fully protected. The only way to be 100% is to start by dropping the water.

Now, I suppose you could test the AF for freeze protection - but do it from a couple of spots.

Winterizing an engine is not something you get a second chance at, you know? :smt001

 

[Daddubo]

I just re winterized mine I did it again because I got in a hurry when I got it home I drained every thing but didn't run the gas out of the carb or fog it.
I got 5 gals of antifreeze and made a 50/50 mix which is good for -20. I put all the plugs in and took out the thermostat and left it out then I filled the engine it took almost 4 gals to get it to the top then I put the muffs on and put a 5gal bucket on the swim platform and primed the hose to cause a siphon effect the muffs leak some so I had to get the engine started fast. I also put a plastic tub under the drive to catch what came out the exhaust. buy the time I got finished I ended up with only 1 gal in the tub so it basically took 9 gals to do the job. I wouldn't trust doing it with out draining the engine first unless you have a tub large enough to fill it up with antifreeze and suck the that way and test it in the bucket.