How many shaft anodes

Discussion in 'Sport Cruisers' started by MiLoII, Apr 19, 2018.

  1. MiLoII

    MiLoII New Member

    26
    Jul 14, 2017
    Southern Lake Michigan
    320 Sundancer 2005
    Previously 300 Doral 1999
    350 Mag MPI Inboard V Drives
    Hello all. My 320 came from brackish/salt water to fresh water so I'm changing all of the anodes over to magnesium. Currently there are 2 anodes on each shaft. If you're in freshwater how many do you use? Do I need 2 on each or I'm wondering did they have them that way because of the saltwater environment?
     
  2. TNT8808

    TNT8808 Active Member PLATINUM Sponsor

    231
    May 25, 2016
    West Michigan
    2008 48 Sundancer
    Cummins QSC 540's
    Avon Seasport 340
    40 HP Yamaha
    Congrats on your boat! We don't normally use any shaft anodes in freshwater.

    -Tom
     
  3. MiLoII

    MiLoII New Member

    26
    Jul 14, 2017
    Southern Lake Michigan
    320 Sundancer 2005
    Previously 300 Doral 1999
    350 Mag MPI Inboard V Drives
    Thanks TNT
     
  4. Todd320

    Todd320 Active Member

    464
    Jul 21, 2016
    St. Petersburg, FL
    2007 Sea Ray 320DA
    Twin V-drive 5.7L 350 Horizon
    Well, I don’t recall seeing any anodes on my shafts either, and I am definitely in salt. I don’t leave it in the water, just splash it every 2 weeks or so, but still. Will check again.
     
  5. Jaybeaux

    Jaybeaux Active Member SILVER Sponsor

    289
    Jan 3, 2016
    Upper Potomac River
    420 Sundancer 2004
    Naught On Call
    Cummins 6CTA-8.3's with V-Drives
    9KW Onan Genset
    I'm in fresh/brackish and sometimes salt. The PO of my boat had it equipped with shaft anodes. I've been asking around about the theory to use them or not. Obviously, if you have them, they are "protecting" the shafts. The other side of the coin says that they are not necessary, and if the bolts become loose, they will slide down to the leading edge of the strut, thus blocking the flow of water over the cutlass bearings. This could lead to a failure.

    If you think about the geometry of affixing a round object to a shaft with bolts, the anode is very thin to start with where the bolts join the halves together.

    Jaybeaux
     
    MiLoII likes this.
  6. ttmott

    ttmott Well-Known Member

    Apr 3, 2012
    Space Coast Florida
    2006 52 Sedan Bridge
    Cummins QSM11
    Sea Ray boats do not require nor recommend shaft anodes. And, FYI; a boat can be over "zinc'd" and have consequential cathodic corrosion. Signs of cathodic corrosion might be anti-fouling paint de-bonding from your running gear or possible bearing pitting in the transmission equipment (worst case).... From what I understand one would have to really go overboard on the sacrificial anodes to get into a cathodic corrosion situation.
     
    juggernaut1, MiLoII and Jaybeaux like this.
  7. M Prod

    M Prod Active Member SILVER Sponsor GOLD Sponsor

    471
    Oct 6, 2017
    North Vancouver, BC
    2005 Sundancer 340
    Aquapro Dinghy w/ Honda 8hp
    Kohler 5KW Genny
    Raymarine Electronics
    8.1 Horizons /V Drives
    As others said, you don't need anodes on the shafts. Pretty sure the bonding system takes care of them? I also am in salty Pacific water, and I just had my boat hauled out ...shafts looked brand new and were spotless.
     
  8. juggernaut1

    juggernaut1 Active Member

    773
    Apr 19, 2015
    Perth, Western Australia
    2006 38 Sundancer
    8.1S / ZF 63V Drives
    My boat is in salt 365 days a year (excepting haul out) and no shaft zincs and no problems. So I can't imagine you would need them in freshwater.

    M Prod do we have bonding on our shafts, I seen it on the steering/rudders but nothing apparent on the shafts?
     
  9. M Prod

    M Prod Active Member SILVER Sponsor GOLD Sponsor

    471
    Oct 6, 2017
    North Vancouver, BC
    2005 Sundancer 340
    Aquapro Dinghy w/ Honda 8hp
    Kohler 5KW Genny
    Raymarine Electronics
    8.1 Horizons /V Drives
    I'm not really sure to be honest with you. Like you, my boat sits in salt all year, and when I pulled it two weeks ago, the shafts were spotless. No grime, no growth, you could eat off them. They looked like they had just been polished.

    EDIT: On mine there are a series of green bonding wires that also run down near the bottom of the engines toward the starboard and port sides. Wonder if that's it. I read somewhere (can't remember where) that the bonding does in fact protect the shafts and props, etc.
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2018
  10. juggernaut1

    juggernaut1 Active Member

    773
    Apr 19, 2015
    Perth, Western Australia
    2006 38 Sundancer
    8.1S / ZF 63V Drives
    On the bonding I've seen on other boats, a bonding strip is in directly contact with the shaft. But I've seen nothing like that on mine. Here's an example of Masterfab's setup on a 340 which is proabably not factory?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2018
  11. mnm99

    mnm99 Well-Known Member

    Oct 2, 2015
    Long Island
    2004 340 SeaRay Sundancer
    Twin 8.1 Merc
    No shaft anode here either. I'm in salt for 6 months. If they come loose and block your cutless your in trouble. Just paint them with some prop paint.
     
  12. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    My boat had them when I got it and I continued to use one on each shaft last year on my 340SDA. I used AL as I am in saltwater. I installed new last April just before splashing and when pulled in November they where only about 30% remaining. I am tossed on this decision for this year as they must be doing something.

    -Kevin
     
  13. hottoddie

    hottoddie Well-Known Member

    Jan 11, 2012
    Boston/Cape Cod
    1986 Sea Ray 390 Express
    Garmin 4212 Chartplotter
    Garmin 24 HD Radar
    Garmin GSD 22 Sounder
    Garm
    454 Crusaders
    It's becoming very common in my area to spray the shafts, struts, props and rudders with Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing. This year I'm going to also spray the trim tabs. Because I have Drive Savers I added bonding brushes on the prop shafts behind the couplers.
     
    KevinC likes this.
  14. mnm99

    mnm99 Well-Known Member

    Oct 2, 2015
    Long Island
    2004 340 SeaRay Sundancer
    Twin 8.1 Merc
    I paint the shafts and props with Propcoat and Pettit ECO the rudders, horns and trim tabs. ALUMINUM anodes go on the tabs and main on back of boat. The unpainted picture is the shaft cleaned before paint. Anodes were never used on this boat.
    Prop paint 1.jpg Bottom paint done.jpg 20161127_112319 (1).jpg 20161127_112324 (1).jpg Prop paint 1.jpg Bottom paint done.jpg
     
  15. MiLoII

    MiLoII New Member

    26
    Jul 14, 2017
    Southern Lake Michigan
    320 Sundancer 2005
    Previously 300 Doral 1999
    350 Mag MPI Inboard V Drives
    Nice looking bottom. I hope mine comes out as good. Finish sanding today and start painting. Finally over 50 degrees
     
  16. MiLoII

    MiLoII New Member

    26
    Jul 14, 2017
    Southern Lake Michigan
    320 Sundancer 2005
    Previously 300 Doral 1999
    350 Mag MPI Inboard V Drives
    Thank you everyone for your time and comments. Clearly at 2 per shaft it appears to be overkill. I did an informal survey st my boatyard (skulked around and looked at all the shaft boats still on the hard). Many had one anode some had none Im going to go down to one this year and then check next year at layup.
     
  17. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    I just went this route this year. Props, shafts, exhausts, rudders and tabs all with the Rust-Oleum cold galvanizing compound. Previously there was prop speed on but I did not feel it was worth the time, effort or money.

    -Kevin
     
  18. JVM225

    JVM225 Well-Known Member

    Apr 8, 2008
    Farmingdale, NY
    2002 410 Sundancer, Monaco Edition.
    3126 Cats.
    I sprayed my props, shafts, rudders and tabs with Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing last weekend to see how it holds up this year.
    The previous owner of my boat had anodes on the shafts, the mechanic at Marine Max told me before I took delivery last year that they shouldn’t be on there so he left them off.
    I didn’t put them on this year either.
     
  19. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    I am leaning towards leaving the off this year too. @mnm99 - thanks for the feedback. Since we have similar boats I hope to see the same results. I also have anodes on my sea strainers and bow thruster to deal with in addition to the main and the tab anodes.

    -Kevin
     
  20. JVM225

    JVM225 Well-Known Member

    Apr 8, 2008
    Farmingdale, NY
    2002 410 Sundancer, Monaco Edition.
    3126 Cats.
    My Vetus 9524 Thruster anode was pretty easy to change. A Phillips screwdriver and 3mm Allen key was all that was needed.
    Next year I’ll remember to bring a “T” handle Allen key from home to make it a little easier.
     

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