How do you prevent this from happening?

Shaps

Well-Known Member
GOLD Sponsor
Nov 4, 2019
2,480
Long Island,NY
Boat Info
2010 Sundancer 500
2015 Brig Falcon 330T
Engines
Twin Cummins QSC550 w Zeus Pods
In the off season last year, I removed the swim ladder and this handle. Got rid of the surface rust on the stainless as well as the gel coat.
And applied a few coats of wax on both surfaces.
7 months later, it's back. Any suggestions on how to prevent this?
Thanks!
PXL_20211111_183757217.jpg
PXL_20211111_183753137.jpg
 
Probably a coat of paint. Powder coat. Or a good clear coat. My father in law refinished elevators and would get the rust off, clean it really good and use a clear spray lacquer over the metal. Did the same to the copper and brass metal to keep the finger prints from showing up so bad. All the hand rails that were outside he would have clear powder coated.

Just a thought.
 
I believe that is just one of the inevitable outcomes of running a production boat in saltwater.
 
Stainless steel will surface rust when it loses its passivated treatment. This normally occurs from the heat of being welded, drilled or machined.

What you have typically is a result of poor fabrication techniques. Not being cleaned and re-passivated after machine work.

https://www.mmsonline.com/articles/how-to-passivate-stainless-steel-parts
This is a professional article that mentions Nitric acid which I would avoid as a DIY. But notice they also mention Citric Acid.

https://caswellplating.com/stainless-steel-passivation-kit-1-gallon.html
https://www.amazon.com/CitriSurf-Stainless-Remover-Passivation-Cleaner/dp/B081D654V5?th=1
 
Stainless steel will surface rust when it loses its passivated treatment. This normally occurs from the heat of being welded, drilled or machined.

What you have typically is a result of poor fabrication techniques. Not being cleaned and re-passivated after machine work.

https://www.mmsonline.com/articles/how-to-passivate-stainless-steel-parts
This is a professional article that mentions Nitric acid which I would avoid as a DIY. But notice they also mention Citric Acid.

https://caswellplating.com/stainless-steel-passivation-kit-1-gallon.html
https://www.amazon.com/CitriSurf-Stainless-Remover-Passivation-Cleaner/dp/B081D654V5?th=1
Thank you!
 
All stainless steel depends on oxygen exposure (in the air) not to rust. When in tight contact and wet, rust begins inside the joint and you see it weeping out with the moisture. It's termed crevice corrosion. Clean up the rust and dry the joints thoroughly. Let uv stable cyanoacrylate (like crazy glue) wick deep into the joint so moisture can no longer get in and lead to more rust. Tape off the fiberglass before applying.
 
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That condition is caused by "crevice corrosion". Google it and you can learn how to solve some of your problems but with boats used in sea water it's a fact of life. Understanding it can help you figure out how to improve some of the connections on your boat and lessen the condition. Oxalic acid works pretty good to remove the rust stains if they aren't left too long.

Crevice corrosion - facts and problem solving — Sandvik Materials Technology
 
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Dave, this is the easiet and best stuff I have used to clean these things monthly. Becasue it is gel it brushes on easily, sits and rinse it off and gone. I go through a jug of this stuff each year and just use it every time on spots that pop up as I wash the boat.

https://spotlessstainless.com/
 
Dave, this is the easiet and best stuff I have used to clean these things monthly. Becasue it is gel it brushes on easily, sits and rinse it off and gone. I go through a jug of this stuff each year and just use it every time on spots that pop up as I wash the boat.

https://spotlessstainless.com/

Thanks Grant.
The worst of it is on my ladder on the swim platform. Is that stuff ok to be on the gelcoat? Really in a b*tch of a spot if I had to protect it to clean it, unless Im on the hard. (Which I am now)...
 

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